IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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Found an issue with the front axle pivot point this evening, I'll post a photo later tonight. Looks like the main mounting will either need to be repaired ( welded) or replaced where the pivot point is.
Looks like it's rimmed out big time! Only concern I have if I decide to fab/weld a replacement piece is getting the hole centered correctly. What do you think?
Last edited by River Lizard on Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Photo posted above....I just edited it within the above post but I don't think it shows a new post if I do it that way so I figured I'd post a notice about the photo.
Not sure what happened with the photo I posted up last night. I put the tags on the uploaded photo....maybe when I went back and deleted the attached photos (original ones) that it also deleted the photo that was uploaded to the server site. I'll send a copy of the photo from my cell phone to my work email and re-upload it in a few minutes. Sorry about that.
What happened is that you tried to hot link the pic that you uploaded .. here is the url : download/file.php?id=8874&mode=view That won't work. It also appears that you deleted that pic from the database. Hot linking will work if you use the CubFest PhotoHost via the Photohost link at the top of the page, your own server or another photohosting site. Then you can put the url of the pic between the tags.
I figured that's what happened. I was just trying to keep the photos on the forums database instead of linking to another server, reason being is, if in the future those photo addresses change then the original link in the post will be broken. This doesn't help future users much if they can't see the photo. Uploading directly to the forum's server is the best solution for future records of things that happen now on the message board but many forums continue to use outside sources for photos due to the easy of use and photo adjustments.
I'll correct my deletion on this topic when I get home, tried to email it to my work email address from my iphone but my email server kicked it for some reason (will have to fix that). From now on I'll just upload the photos and use the thumbnail system that the forum has built into it. Was just trying to skip viewers from having to open the thumbnail image and then having to use the back arrow on their browser to get back to the topic section. (I'm sure you know all of this)
Sorry about the confusion.
This is the whole reason why John aka Lil' Dog has been hosting the CubFest PhotoHost. It is supported by donations from our membership and as long as those donations continue to cover the cost of the server. This is the reason why I recommend the CubFest PhotoHost aka PhotoHost at the top of every page.
I don't recommend using other photohosts primarily because of the EULA's. Most sites like to assume ownership of the data and I just cannot justify that. So when I don't upload to the photohost, I upload to the Rudi's Farmall Cubs aka the Manuals at the top of the page. I know that there are a few others who have the same capability. It allows for better clarity in pics to my mind and doesn't fill up the forum database too much, I imagine the data base will get quite large in time.
The front axle pivot may or may not be an easy problem to fix.
First, suggest not fixing this problem, until you have completely checked out the entire tractor for additional problems. Determine if it's cost effective to put this tractor into operational conditon or part it out.
Parts manual, steering section and frame section has the parts listing.
404 618 R1 Hub, front axle pivot pin front.
404 619 R1 Hub, front axle pivot pin rear.
Only from the photo, the front hub is missing. It's a heavy steel bushing with a hole. The axle pivot pin is roll pined through the hole in the hub. I just checked my 154 and the heavy steel bushings, front and rear, are welded to the frame. The axle pivot pin has probably been drilled out to accomodate the bolt.
When ready to fix the problem remove the front axle and inspect for damaged parts not shown in the photo.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Once you pull the plugs you can actualy see the valves thru the plug holes (hood removed). I have had success with stuck valves by squirting in penetrating oil and pushing the valves down with a small wooden dowel. Ted
Well the 154 finally made it to my house after only 2 months of collecting funds and getting the owner to find time enough to close the deal. So the first step is to pull the plugs, shoot some lube down the holes and replace the plugs. Once it sits for a few days I'll hand-crank the crankshaft several times to spread the lube up and down the cylinder walls.
It has some major wiring issues that need to be addressed before I can even think about putting a battery in it and cranking it. Several wires are just hanging not connected to anything. My goal is to just get it running and see where I stand with what works and what doesn't with it and then go from there. If the compression is good, the PTO works and there's nothing wrong with the driveline (clutch, pressure plate, gears, etc..) then I'm going to strip it down, sandblast every part and repaint it. It's got the IH deck under it, which I'll be pulling off once I find out if the PTO works and I'm planning on restoring it also. Not sure how much mowing I'll be doing with it, I'd rather use it for other duties such as pulling logs, plow snow and hopefully have a H/M loader for the front end so I can move dirt, compose, etc...with it.
Question: What do you think I should check, lube, etc...before attempting to crank a tractor that's been sitting for at least 5 years?
1. I'm going to setup a temporary fuel tank for it.
2. Check the fluid levels
Prime the oil pump first thing. Engine oil level. Crank over engine, starter/generator. Check for compression. Spark. Carburetion - fuel system.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Ok I'm already confused, how do you prime the oil pump? That's a new one on me, do I hand crank the crank shaft to prime it?
On a different note, I went out this morning and took some time to look things over on it and I think I have my hands full on this project. The more I look at it the more I find things that are in need of major repairs or it's completely missing from the tractor.
1. Needs everything on the grill assembly except lights including the fiberglass frame...ouch.
2. Mower deck is in bad shape, has had major repair work done but poorly at that. It's missing parts too, belt covers, has only the front roller on it, side cover is missing, several brackets have been poorly welded back on the deck.
3. Steering system is basically shot/bent and needs a complete rebuild.
4. The wiring a lonely is going to take me a few days to replace, after I find some parts to go with it, fuse assembly, points & condenser, plug wires, etc.
5. I'll be lucky to get the plugs out with damaging the threads on the head since they're so rusted. I've been spraying them several times in the last two months to let them soak some PB done them, but I'm not sure that's going to do it. We'll see in the next day or so when I try to break them free.
6. Dash console needs fiberglass work on the bolt holes.
On the list goes on....but first things first, gotta get the thing running first and see where I stand with moving forward with the project or not.
I'm definitely going to need some help with trouble shooting as I work at getting it started. Going to start on it today by mapping the wires out to the drawing and get a list of connectors I need and how much wire and what gauge wire for all the stuff.
I'll keep you all posted as I move along on it.
One quick question about the wiring, do I need tinned wire since it's exposed to weather off and on?
There's a red wire just hanging off the regulator and by the drawing it says it should go to the battery. Item 1 in drawing. I also found a wire cut in the main harness that runs between the engine block and the starter/generator. It too looks like a red wire. Would this be where the red wire should be connected to from the voltage regulator? The drawing of the wiring isn't to clear to me on where this wire runs to. Any help would be appreciated.
One more thing, I'd like to pull the gas tank off so I can access the wiring behind the dash, do I need to pull the steering wheel off to get the dash away from the tank before I can pull the fuel tank out?
Last edited by River Lizard on Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Put some seafoam in the crankcase oil and in the gas tank. By the time the gas runs out when running it she will idle higher and sound awesome. My last $400 int154 turned into my fel/backhoe project. My fisrt running int154 i paid $800 with the 3pt and 3260 mower deck. It has a new engine from the PO and she runs sweet. My third int154 with the creeper and snowplow/chains + wheel weights i paid $1,700 for it but she sounds awesome and its running now for 4 years. It could be longer i lose track of time now being retired. These machines get a bad rap but once there up and running ok if we fix them correctly they will last us for many years if we do the proper maintenance on them.
My third int154 had the same pivot pin problem. If you back out the pin a little so its below flush you can take a 3/16" thick plate and drill a 1" hole in it and weld it on the bracket so the pin is captured again. You can c clamp the plate in place and bang the pin back into position so it lines up the plate and eye ball the front axle inplace so its centered then weld the plate inplace. Remember to grease the center pin on the axle. If the pin sticks out far enough you can add a collar with a 1" hole in it and tac weld it inplace with 4 heavy tacs too. That gives more support to the pin.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
You would probably do well to order a complete wiring harness for your 154.
The tank can come off without removing the tower, It takes some wiggling and care so you don't damage the radiator hose, but once you have the back strap and fuel line loose it can move.
Before you do all that, you should probably just get it running to see what you are working with. Even if all the charging circuits and such don't work, just get it to a point where it will run to see how much work you will need to invest.
Prime the oil pump before cranking. There is a small pipe plug on the oil filter housing in front of the lid. Remove pipe plug and fill with oil. Replace plug. That's all it takes.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH Model 15 Tiller
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