IHC Cub Cadet Forum
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I'm thinking about selling my Cub Cadet 106 (1971). I got it from my grandfather's estate and he kept all of his things immaculate. I have used it a bit to cut the grass, and it's clean, and in good shape. It has a small dent in the hood and needs a new battery from not using it. I hate to sell it, but I really don't have a use for it, with a small yard and I need the money. Can you tell me how much you think I could get for it? I don't know much about this stuff and I don't want to get ripped off. I can post some photos if necessary.
Suggestion. Check craigslist for your area.
Price range, depending on condition and extra attachments. Probably $200- to $450-. Based upon what running Cub Cadets sell for at auction in central Missouri. Non running, complete Cub Cadets, parts tractors, can be purchased in this area for around $100- give or take a bit.
Now for you problem. No battery and the tractor has not been running for a while places the tractor in the area of a parts tractor. Is it worth you time and money to put the tractor into running condition?
First area I check when purchasing a parts Cub Cadet is the condition of the mower deck spindles and blades. One bad spindle is around $150- in parts to repair.
Just providing my opinion. Probably not what you are expecting or looking for.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Bingo. Eugene hit this one right on the nail head. You wouldn't believe the number of people trying to sell a garden tractor/lawnmower/atv/car/truck/boat/etc. that say, "It only needs a battery."
Yeah right. If the owner is too lazy to put a decent battery in the power vehicle to be sold, just what else are they neglecting?
Not trying to be mean, but you should be able to see the logic here. Cheap is cheap and it gets you nowhere unless you have an unsuspecting buyer. As they say, "Buyer beware!"
Most people enjoy turning the key and hearing a machine roar to life. I've sold more pieces of powered equipment that started up quickly than I ever have power equipment that didn't have a good battery/charging system in them.
Though trillions and trillions of eyes have been watching the skies for as long as human memory exists, no gods nor angels have been seen or documented outside of religion. The number of spaceships being sighted however has become much more prevalent.
Yea, as SundaySailor said, a tractor that doesn't run (or cannot be started) is basically a parts machine. A couple of years ago I was rebuilding a Cub Cadet 124 (one series older than yours, and 12-hp gear drive instead of 10). The one I was restoring ran, but needed some parts. I paid $100 for it and drove it on the trailer. While working on it, I had two separate individuals call me and GIVE me a Cub Cadet 105 (10-hp hydro) and another 124 that was in parts. Both engines turned out to be good. Starter generators were good, transmissions were good. If someone had taken the time to put a battery in them and get them running, they easily would have been $200 machines. Lucky for me though, they only cost me the gas to go pick them up, about $20 total for the two.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
I wouldn't say that one that doesn't run or can't be started is basically a parts tractor, but in that condition it should affect/lower the price. I have bought a lot of Cub Cadets that did not run at the time of purchase, but were running/using tractors within a very few minutes after getting them home.
I agree with Paul. You go into a cub purchase buying a nonrunning as if it's a worse case scenario. Unless I have time to pull the plug and turn it over by hand checking for compression, I deal with the seller as if the engine won't run. I, too have gotten cubs home, tuned 'em up, fresh fluids, and drove them around in roughly 30 minutes. I've also got them home and they knocked or smoked like a freight train. Coin flip on buying nonrunners and I price accordingly.
If you want to get the best bang for your buck, fresh gas and oil, carb clean, new plug/tuneup, and even a used battery to try to get it to run. You'd do better with a running cub, even if it still needs some work, versus a "ran years ago" cub.
Tractors in the stable: '62 560D, '67 1256D, and co-owner '67 W1206D with dad, CC 86, CC 149, CC 169, CC 800, CC 782, CC 782D, CC 1650 w/dual hydraulics, CC 1772 diesel SGT
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