Well I had a few requests to come up w/ an umbrella bracket for tractors with deluxe seats. Unfortunatley, I don't have one w/ a deluxe seat to experiment with, so I called up Ponymaster and sure enough, he had one.... of course, it was smashed from what appeared to be a rollover accident. With the promise I'd straighten out his seat in exchange for the use of it to model a bracket, I conned him into bringing it over. After 'bout an hour of fighting with the seat frame, we finally got it pretty straight and mounted it on my loboy in lieu of my pan seat. Here's what my oversize umbrella (off my Farmall H) looks like... room enough for two!
Here's a close up of what I did... Its made of 1/4" plate and seems to be pretty stout. I'll have to see how this holds up, but I don't anticipate any problems, shy of hurricane winds... in which case, the BRACKET will be the least of the worries. It appears that there is adequate room for the lift rod on a fast hitch. From the fender to the bracket tube is a space of exactly 3".
First of all, my shop isn't really huge. Its a 20x40 portion of a 40x60 building. I've insulated it and have it heated with an external wood stove that heats water. The water is then piped in, goes through an old radiator off an IH truck with a squirrel cage blower behind it, and back to the stove to be reheated. Fan is on a thermostat and keeps the shop a comfy 70 degrees.
I am a bit on the fussy side about keeping it neat, but it certainly gets REALLY messy during some projects. Much to the chagrin of my wife and kids, periodically during a project I simply have to stop everything, pick everything up and put it in its place, sweep the place out, and start over. That usually occurs the first time I spend more than a minute or two looking for a tool.
Most of the tools I have, I have had for twenty yrs or so. Have never lost a socket or a wrench yet, and don't intend to start. That just because I'm a cheapskate and don't want to buy new stuff!
Secondly, here's some pics which will help anyone who wants to make one of these holders. Not much to them, but you'll spend some quality time w/ the torch and grinder!
piece of 1/4" plate minimum of 6 1/2" square. (thicker will work also, but no thinner.)
8" of 1 1/2" by 1/8" wall square tubing (this works better than round tubing because it makes it easier to weld the nut in place.)
5/16" x 3" bolt. (grade 2 will work)
5/16" x 3/4" bolt
oxy acetylene torch
9/16" drill bit
3/8" drill bit
large "C" clamp or vise grips with 2" capability
large flat file.
small ball peen hammer
cut off tool w/ thin disc.
Start by drawing the pattern shown below on a piece of thin cardboard, (like shoe box thickness)
Remove the bolts holding the left support of your deluxe seat in place and place the cardboard over the holes providing adequate clearance between it and the seat support upright. Using the ball peen hammer, without moving the cardboard, peen out the cardboard over the bolt holes to make a precise pattern. You can also completely remove the seat bracket and trace the holes onto the cardboard from below, if you choose.
Lay out the pattern on the plate steel and using the method of your choice, (torch/ plasma cutter or hack saw / cut off wheel if you have lots of time, patience and discs) cut out the plate.
Carefully center punch the holes and drill them out w/ the 9/16" bit. (I like to make a smaller pilot hole for accuracy) The bolts on the cub are 1/2", and the 9/16" holes will give you a little extra clearance. If they still don't line up, you may spend a little time w/a rat tail file or worst case scenario, a 5/8" bit in one or more of the holes.
I've got a plate which lined up perfectly which I use as a pattern. I vice grip it to the project plate, drill one hole, then insert a 9/16" bolt before drilling the next. I then insert another 9/16" bolt in the second hole before driling the third. This insures all holes will be correctly spaced and my pattern won't shift while drilling.
Grind off all of the burrs on the edges and holes.
Prep the 8" square tubing by doing the following.
Centerpunch the tubing midline, 4" down from the top, on one side. Drill this out w/ the 3/8" bit.
Take the file and remove any internal burrs from the drilled hole, and the raised welded seam inside. It would be good to test fit the tube on the end of the umbrella pipe at this point, incase more filing is needed.
Now, take the 5/16" by 3/8" bolt and thread it all the way into the nut. Place the nut on the tubing, with the threaded bolt protruding inside the tube.
I find that antisplatter spray is a good thing to keep the weld splatter from sticking to the tube at a minimum.
Using the "C" clamp, or vise grips, clamp down on the head of the bolt, holding the nut level on the tube, and weld.
Remove the clamp, and check to see if a bolt will easily thread in.
Take the 5/16" bolt and cut off the head with the cut off tool and file or grind it smooth.
Using the torch and a vice, heat it red hot and bend it to suit your preference.
Using a cut off tool, hacksaw, triangular file, or whatever, put a notch in the BOTTOM of the tube to allow any water to drain.
You can place the locking bolt to the front or rear, whichever you prefer. Putting it to either side may cause clearance issues with the fender or seat. Carefully square up the tubing on the plate, using the T square, and tac weld it. Re check for square, and if you're satisfied, weld 'er up.
If you are fortunate to have access to a sandblaster, the nasty looking rust, weld splatter etc can be quickly removed, leaving it ready for paint.
I realize that not everyone has the tools, time or inclination to make one, so I've made up a few extra for each variety of seat. If someone wants one, PM me for details.