In-dash Fuse Holder

[Hengy]

Hi all!

Anyone have an elegant-yet-simple way to wire a 4-position light switch with onboard fuse to put the fuse holder in the extra hole in the dash? I have had a fuse issue that I need to take care of on Merlin, but the fuse is a PITA to get to on that fuse holder on the switch.

I am still running the Cutout on my tractor and not a VR, so the charge circuit needs to remain in the system.

Thanks for your help!

Mike in La Crosse, WI

[Bigdog]

Mike - you have a couple of options - first of all, where the existing fuse is on the switch you can replace the fuse with a short piece of copper tubing and then wire your dash fuse into the line between the ammeter and where it currently attaches to the light switch. If you don't want to replace the fuse with the shunt (copper tubing) then feed the fuse in the dash panel from the ammeter terminal and then run the other wire from the fuse to either one of the two screws (the rusty ones) shown to the left of the switch fuse in the picture:

[bythepond88]

If you keep blowing fuses, it sounds like there's an underlying problem that needs attention. Is this just a temporary fix until you can address the other problem?

The farmer across the street always used to ask: "If you don't have time to fix it correctly now, what makes you think you will find the time later? Something else is always going to come up." I know this isn't always true, but it's been true often enough for me to keep his words in mind.

[dennisbushnell]

Mike auto supply stores have a self resetting circut breaker that snaps in place of a fuse or I have some 15 amp breakers that you could put in the fuse hole in the dash can send you one if you want to try it

[salamonius]

http://www.grandpastractor.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=568&review=write




Is this what your looking for?

I am pretty sure you can get them at napa....

Take one post and a wire to the ammeter and the other post of the fuse holder to the screw on the ammeter screw on the light switch and lay in place of the fuse on the light switch a piece of copper tubing....

[Buzzard Wing]

Fuses don't usually cause problems, they are the result of another problem. Short to ground somewhere......

Couple of cheap options, if you keep it inside you can get along with a glass inline fuse holder. Outside I would use a newer style fuse holder with a cover. Just use the right size fuse. Source (I don't know for a cutout) to one of the rusty screws after the fuse in Bigdog's photo will supply the switch (lights).
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=3150583

TM also sells the dash mount fuse holders (just ordered one for a 12v Cub myself).

[Hengy]

As I said in my first post, I have a wiring issue in my lighting circuit that I have to fix. I am going to let the fuse stay blown until I can get around to fixing the circuit. I just don't want to have to fish back behind the light switch in the future if it ever blows again. This was one of the most welcome mods that IH made on the cub...moving the fuse out to the front of the dash panel!

No worries...I will get my wiring issue fixed first...

Mike in La Crosse,WI

[Buzzard Wing]

Not easy to get at it with the dash installed. You could extend the wire with the ring terminal to the switch if it doesn't fit (it should).

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/748fp.htm

To find a short,(With the battery disconnected.) a meter with a 'beep' continuity function or a battery powered 'light up' one will work. Ground one end and connect the other to the light switch out wire (or any light wire) and move the wires etc and 'wait for the beep'.

If the wiring is in good shape, may be the lights themselves?? 60 year old wire??
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/734fp.htm

[daddydip]

Yup, pita it maybe but after pulling it apart and seeing all the stuff going on back there it will be well worth your time. I've done both of my 55's and found that the Lo boy had no screws in the base of the dash. The po had taken a heavy piece of rubber and slid it in behind everything to keep from shorting. I bought the fuse holders at the local IHC dealer. they offered two ,you have to make sure you have the right one.

[CPIII]

Just want to get on the "Doing anything on the light switch on a cub with hydraulics" is a PITA band wagon. I have been looking for a similar solution. I haven't blown any fuses but I really want a better solution.

[Buzzard Wing]

That wire from the fuse does reach....

This is the easiest way to deal with a dash. New harness ($25 on eBay ), new fuse holder(TM) and a dremel with a wire wheel to clean up. I try to always use 'star' washers. The hardest part was getting that small nut on the wire holder near the clutch pedal.

The power to the fuse and ignition comes from the VR L terminal (light green) and should be directly connected to that wire, not the orange wire as shown. This configuration will likely cause a problem later on as all the current for the lights will go through the ignition switch and should not. I misinterpreted the two drawings when I wired it.

[coppersmythe]

wow, buzzardwing, if you ever come way down south, you can have the best cajun food you ever put in your mouth, if you can make my rats nest behind my dash look that good!! coppersmythe............very nice

[danovercash]

Now that would be a good thing, having the lights wired to the switch. No more dead battery because you left the lights on or someone was playing with the lights and left them on. BTW my '63 lights are wired always hot, don't know about the '78.

[DanR]

Put that piece of copper tube in the fuse holder and nothing else. Then see where the smoke is coming from.

[Bigdog]

Wiring the headlights through the light switch is not necessarily a good thing! The lights are high current drawing components and all that current would be passing through the ignition switch. The switch is not designed to sustain that kind of current flow on a continuous basis. You will end up overheating / damaging the ignition switch.