Hydraulic Block Rebuild

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Hydraulic Block Rebuild

Postby troopfpc » Thu Jun 11, 2009 3:18 pm

This is a rebuild for hydraulic block 360719R1. Different block(s) will require different parts so make sure to get the right rebuild kit. There are some variances as well but this should still be of assistance. The pictures should tell the story on their own. As has been previously noted on the forum, the replacement filter (screen) is a bit too long. You will have to make it fit as best as you can (it is about an 1/8 inch too long).

Start by draining and then remove the block from the tractor. Give it a good cleaning before taking it apart. Then remove the bottom cover and the head. Remove the control valve (from the front) and the oil strainer. Remove your orifice plug and relief valve. Remove the piston from the head end of the assembly. Now the fun begins, remove all valve assemblies from the block. They can be a bear to remove and make sure to rotate them as you pull them out (this is crucial to rotate especially when reinstalling with new o-rings). Clean all passages and the inside of the block real well (no dirt or sludge) and replace the 3 allen screws on the inside of the block (if you removed them). Check all of your parts for wear and use solvent to give them a cleaning. Carefully replace all o-rings that came with your rebuild kit. Reinstall all valve assemblies with the new o-rings, lubricate each and rotate the assemblies while pushing them into place (prevents damage to o-rings). Reinstall the piston assembly making sure all o-rings were replaced including the two in the block (rotate as well). Reinstall your orifice plug and relief valve (do not over tighten these). Install the oil strainer (I bought a new one which was expensive and as previously mentioned a bit too long). Install the cylinder head with a new gasket and tighten to 45 lbs torque. Now reinstall the control valve with its new o-ring (lubricate and twist while inserting). Control valve should never be removed or inserted from head end, only from the front of the block. Reinstall your cylinder block cover with a new gasket and tighten to 35 lbs torque. Replace the 4 exterior allen screws if they were removed and button up all other parts and linkages that were removed. After painting, you can bolt your refreshed unit back onto the tractor. I did paint mine while apart and awaiting the arrival of the rebuild kit. Do not forget to refill the unit with 4 1/4 pints of your choice of fluid. Then work the unit with the filler cap removed so as to purge and release any trapped air. You can also refer to the online manuals which are very helpful. This took about 10 hours (including clean up and paint) and cost roughly $120 in parts. I did also replace all rubber boots, leather covers and the two tension springs (one was found to be broken upon removal).

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I know a little about everything and alot about nothing....
troopfpc
5+ Years
5+ Years
 
Posts: 544
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 2:44 pm
Location: NJ, Sussex County
Zip Code: 07461
Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub, 1951 Cub, 198? JD 500C, 1954 Oliver OC3

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