stuck engine

[bwatson]

My newly purchased cub has a stuck engine. Do you guys have any magic recipes? I have deasel in the engine now.

Part 2. What oils should be used in the crank case, trans and hydralics

Thanks

[Bigdog]

Whatever you use for a soak, patience is the key. Liquid Kroil works well, but it seems everyone has their preference.
As far as fluids: in the crankcase, it depends on what the previous owner used or whether you intend to tear the engine down. If non-detergent oil has been used, there may be significant sludge build-up and changing to detergent oil will start breaking all of it loose. If you're going to pull the pan anyway, clean the engine up and switch to detergent oil or a good synthetic. 30 wt. in the summer and 10 or 20 wt in the winter depending on how cold it gets. Or use a good multi-viscosity just to make it easy.
In the transmission either 90 wt. gear lube or hy-tran fluid. In the hydraulics use hy-tran fluid.

[Rudi]

Welcome to the Cub Family.

Big Dog basically said it all, folks have their preference for different products to free up a stuck engine. I was told that Dextron TF-3 works real well because of the wicking properties, but haven't tried it yet.

I did find a product that really amazed me though. I was trying to free up a toasted adjustable front axle for a wagon that I am building. I tried Kroil, WD-40, and the CaseIH penetrating oil. None of them did it, and I was patient. I was introduced to Solvo-Rust from Loctite. Has excellent wicking properties. I judiciously sprayed the axle 3 or 4 times a day (everytime I passed by it) and after 4 days, I repeat only 4 days, the axle broke free with a couple small wacks with a 3lb hammer, where it refused to budge before.

I am going to get some of this in a can other than a spray can, and I am going to use it to get Jethro unstuck. It is inexpensive and man does it work.

While I am at it, couple things that might be helpful to you.

At the top of this forum is a post called "Announcement: New Members and Visitors, Please READ". Have a read on it, follow the links to the ATIS FAQ's, the Best of H.L. Chauvin and of course the Manual Server. There is a lot of info there for anyone who is wishing to maintain, repair or restore their Cub.

Happy reading, and again welcome to the Cub Family

[countershaft]

A friend of mine recently did his '48 Cub an overhaul , and then all of a sudden thus fall, he couldn't start it . Not even hand cranking. First thing I said. " did you have oil in it " ? Yes, he said. Just can't imagine what would cause that to happen

[Jeff]

countershaft,
I had a working engine lock-up tight on me. Turned out the magneto impulse coulper came apart and jammed the gears. Couldn't even turn it over by hand. Just something to check if you friend hasn't already found the problem.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Countershaft, fan bearing has been known ot cause lock up, as well as leaking head gasket allowing antifreeze to get into cylinder.

[russellm]

this is my first post and first cub, so here goes. 2 years ago i bouht 52 cub, motor had been locked up for several years. owner took carb off to get rebuilt and never did. meanwhile motor locked up. Poured marvel mystery oil in it for a couple of months, about every other weekend. Finally pulled head, so I could see, cleaned off some rust, poured each cylinder full of mystery oil. Took a large wooden dowel rod, and tapped very lightly all the way around each piston. very lightly is important, pistons will bust. Did this for several weekends. Finally broke free. The cylinders were not in bad shape, so i just cleaned up good, put on new head and manifold gaskets, cost about $20.00. Just planted 2 acre garden with it. Dad says I need a set of side harrows to make gardening a little easier. But it sure beats a tiller and a hoe.

[Bigdog]

Welcome to the board Russell! Sounds like you're on the right track.

[Rudi]

Russell:

Ditto to Big Dog's comments! Welcome to the Cub Family...

Seems you got lucky, I however, am not going to be that lucky. When we pulled the head #2 had about 1/2" of water and goop on top of the piston and #4 had about an inch...... needless to say, punch job needed....

[parts man]

Just a tip on freeinng stuck engines,,, some body once told me to take a hardwood block and a sledge hammer on top of the pistons,,, DON'T!! Not only do pistons break, but also con rods bend, and even main caps will break if too much force is used from above.

If I get into a stuck engine now, I use a small hardwood block, and about a 20 oz hammer, and tap lightly on the rod caps. If that doesn't loosen it, drop the crank and drive them out, chances are you'll have to bore the engine.
BTW, the tapping comes after a good soak with your favourite oil product. I have had good luck with the ATF as it does tend to creep.