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Control Valve Leak

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tkgriff
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Control Valve Leak

Postby tkgriff » Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:40 am

Hi. This is my first post, but I must admit that I've been lurking for some time. Thanks to all for providing such great information and knowledge.
Now for a question. I recently developed a leak at the control valve on my 48 cub. It has the newer "360" type hydraulics with a 1960 casting date. I got new seals, gaskets and filters and installed them. I found that the o-ring on the control valve had a flat spot and figured that this was the problem. With the hydraulics now back on the tractor, I am still seeing a small leak at the control valve. I've only ran it for a short time so far. My questions would be, can the o-ring need a little use before it "seats"? If not, what would next best step be? I didn't notice any scratches in the control valve bore, but will admit that I didn't look really closely either. I hate to tear it down again but will if the leaks continue. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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Rick Prentice
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Postby Rick Prentice » Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:49 am

If you look at your old "o" ring, was it just flat, or was a piece cut off, suggesting maybe a burr inside the bore, which may have cut your new "O" ring too. I would think you'll have to remove the control valve again and check things closer. I doubt that it will quit leaking by itself.

My opinion,
Rick
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tkgriff
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Postby tkgriff » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:06 am

Thanks for the reply. It looked flattened to me rather than cut, but I'll have another look. If it was cut, what would need to be done? Carefully hone the bore?

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Re: Control Valve Leak

Postby Rudi » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:07 am

TK:

First, Image to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met :!: :D
tkgriff wrote:Hi. This is my first post, but I must admit that I've been lurking for some time. Thanks to all for providing such great information and knowledge.
Now for a question. I recently developed a leak at the control valve on my 48 cub. It has the newer "360" type hydraulics with a 1960 casting date. I got new seals, gaskets and filters and installed them. I found that the o-ring on the control valve had a flat spot and figured that this was the problem. With the hydraulics now back on the tractor, I am still seeing a small leak at the control valve. I've only ran it for a short time so far. My questions would be, can the o-ring need a little use before it "seats"? If not, what would next best step be? I didn't notice any scratches in the control valve bore, but will admit that I didn't look really closely either. I hate to tear it down again but will if the leaks continue. Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Well, I guess you have seen this before, but seeing as it is the Welcome Wagon, everyone gets their own copy :!: :wink: :lol: Reason, is it is easier for you to find your first post than to look through thousands.. and it can be a good reference.

Check the updates to the Blue Ribbon Service Manuasl. Most of the stuff that is needed is right there. So I hope that helps. Rick probably has it right on the noggin.. so give his idea a whirl first. Of course, this begs the question is the O-Ring from an IH Re-build kit or an off the shelf one. IF it isn't exactly the right size it may be the problem as well.

Welcome and enjoy playing with that Touch Control :D

Ok, so here is the spiel Image:

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub. One of the other projects we have been working on and it will be a continuing effort is the How To Article Archive. This the the place to go to get all the quick links to some very good articles written by many members of the forum on solving some of the problems we encounter as we repair, maintain and up-grade our Cubs. Keep looking for this to grow.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's :?: . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, Image to the Cub FamilyImage :D
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Rick Prentice
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Postby Rick Prentice » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:17 am

Lets wait and see what some more guys have to say. I'll do a search for old T/C leaks for a refresher, and will report back later.

Rick
When I told my dad I've been misplacing things and doing stupid stuff----His reply---"It only gets better"

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Rick Prentice
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Postby Rick Prentice » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:24 am

I opened the T/C manual and the very first thing it listed in the troubleshooting section for a leaking control valve was--- Inspect the control valve bore for scratches. That's all it says :shock: . Nutz, next in line was to replace the o-ring.

Rick
When I told my dad I've been misplacing things and doing stupid stuff----His reply---"It only gets better"

tkgriff
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Postby tkgriff » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:37 am

Yes, that's what I saw also. Nothing mentioned about what to do if there is any scratching in the bore.

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Postby cowboy » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:30 am

Hi TK

Welcome to the form

I have not done a TC unit yet. Does the O ring silde in the bore or on a shaft :?:

If it slides on a shaft. Use wet dry sand paper 800 grit or finerspray some wd-40 or other light oil on it. Wrap the sand paper around the shaft and lightly sand it.

If it slide in the bore you may be able to use a brake hone and Lightly hone it you do not want to ake it out of round. Wach where any ports enter the bore you may have to reach in and sand that too. IMPORTANT throughly clean and wipe the inside out and any where any oil or grit may have splached.

Good luck

Billy
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Postby Rudi » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:21 am

TK:
billyandmillie wrote:I opened the T/C manual and the very first thing it listed in the troubleshooting section for a leaking control valve was--- Inspect the control valve bore for scratches. That's all it says :shock: . Nutz, next in line was to replace the o-ring.
Rick


With that in mind, I decided to redo again that section in the Blue Ribbon Service Manuals. In addition to the GSS-1024 Touch Control Service Manual the new links include the Additional Service & Installation Instruction Manuals such as the Service Installation Packages which will be the home for many of the Installation Package Instructions IH has for some of the Maintenance products. Currently the Cub Touch Control Packages include as mentioned in another thread, the Hydraulic Pumps and the Cub Hydraulic Cylinder & Valve Unit (Reservoir). Just click on the appropriate link. I am currently working on the data Rick sent me a little while ago and hope to have it up shortly.

That is about the extent of the information that is currently available.
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tkgriff
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Postby tkgriff » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:04 pm

Billy,
The o-ring rides in a groove on the control valve shaft. The shaft then slides inside the bore of the reservoir casting. I guess I'll need to pull the shaft and take a closer look for scratching or scoring in the bore. I'll try to measure the shaft and bore diameters, but I've never seen any specs on what they should be. Like you said, maybe some fine polishing and a good cleaning after.
Rudy,
I'll check on the new additions to the manuals. Thanks.

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Postby Donny M » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:29 pm

tk,

Are you sure the "O" ring wasn't nicked when the shaft was reinserted :?: Those bores have very sharp edges and it's easy to do.
8)

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Postby Bigdog » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:37 pm

Just a little trick - If you have some disposable rubber gloves in the shop for those messy jobs, cut the fingertip off of one and stretch it over the end of those shafts with sharp edges. A little dab of Hy-tran and the O-ring slides right over the glove tip.
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tkgriff
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Postby tkgriff » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:12 pm

Donny,
I tried to be carefully and don't THINK I nicked the o-ring, however I guess I won't know for sure unless I take it back apart. Thanks to all for the many replies.


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