Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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I'm looking for plans to build a tank. any info or sources would be helpful thanks
There are several resources you can use to build a tank.
Here's a good place to start:
Also, do a search on Electrolysis using the search feature and you'll find tons of ideas and pictures.
Here is my tank, care of CubFest Northeast 2006 workshop on Electrolysis put on by Rudi.
I don't understand where all of the cables are hooked. Is there a jumper cable between each re-bar? If so, does this give better connections than just clamping a copper wire to each re-bar and then hooking the negative lead to one of the re-bars?
1947 Cub S/N 9216 (My Dad's "Uncle Bob")
We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give......Winston Churchill
I guess it has been a while since you saw the Welcome Wagon, so I shall repeat it here as it has been updated a few times over the last couple of years...
First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met
Check the links below.. there are a couple of tanks there.. depends on what you want.. There is also the Where Do I find TSP in the US and What Charger to Use? thread which you may want to read.
Also, one of our members built a smaller version and documented it. You can see how Ron solved his problems by reading the How To Build a 5 Gallon Electrolysis Tank thread.
Here are a few other interesting threads on Electrolysis that you may want to read:
Electrolosis tank 1 cooking 1 on the make
Electrolosis won't cook!
which battery charger do you use
If you use the Search feature you should be able to find a LOT more threads that might be interesting..
Glad to see you post again... When you build your tank, post pics and such. Variations are the spice of life.. even with Electrolysis Tanks..
Ok, so here is the spiel :
I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.
Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:
I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.
IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.
In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.
Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.
I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family
The majority of the cables run from each of the re-bar into the junction box where they join up to a buss bar, which is the positive side of the equation. The lead from the positive terminal of the battery charger leads to that buss bar. The center lead on the tank that gets hooked to the part being cleaned also goes to the junction box, but to the negative buss bar which is also connected to the negative terminal on the battery box.
There are a number of ways to hook up the cabling. This just happens to be the way that I did it, cause the parts were either on sale, cheap or even better - FREE
You can use ground clamps and a single wire connecting all of the re-bar, you can use wire nuts, you can use aligator clips.. all kinds of devices. However, the KEY to a Good Tank is in the Connections Each connection MUST be solid, in that there is good contact between the positive and the re-bar plus between the negative and the part being cleaned. That is what is critical.
Use any setup you wish, that YOU understand and cannot mix up. Just ensure the connections are good
Nice setup Peter!
I found the biggest advantage of Rudi's design is that you don't need to clamp the rebar to the tank. The jumper cable ends serve to hold them in place and make it easy to remove them to clean.
The rebar needs to be wire brushed once a day or so cause it will get swill building up on it. After a few days I replace it with some that I have run through a wire wheel (outside!).
You certainly can clamp them together any way that works, but because of the 'frequent' cleaning it's just a lot easier to use jumper cables or something that's easy to remove.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
I just finished the tank that we cut out at Cubfest NE. Pictures have been taken and Rudi and I are working on posting them. I have before pictures of a grill that is now out of the tank. I will be taking after pics. It was only in 48 hours. Trust me when I say it was a mess when it went in.
I modified Rudi's arangement and that is obvious in the pics. The important thing is if it works, its a good design no matter how you do it.
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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