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18ft trailer
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2005 Mahindra w/FEL - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: IL, Paris just off of Interstate 70
18ft trailer
The trailer i use to haul my tractors on has decided to not light up. I have spent two day troubleshooting the lights and repaired three breaks in the lines. To no avail. I have ohm'd everything out, ran voltage checks off the truck and nothing. So finally i decided to run new wiring. I have spent two days running all new wiring and new lights. Once again nothing. No lights. Continuity is there. Voltage is coming out of the truck, so its going into the plug. So my thinking was bad ground so i even ran a direct ground wire to one of the lights, nothing. Any ideas? I AM STUCK
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Re: 18ft trailer
Did you check the voltage at the light fixture...I would start there and work back to the plug. and check the load side of the plug for voltage..The connection has got to broke somewhere....Or grounded out....Make sure you have a good ground as I guess you have....Sometimes the simplest thing ....Bulbs ....Whatever can screw up the works....Sometimes it don't take much....Those are my thoughts anyways...
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Re: 18ft trailer
If you have loaned your trailer to anyone, maybe they switched the wires around. Make sure the truck
and trailer plugs match. Goog luck.
Russ
and trailer plugs match. Goog luck.
Russ
1979 International Cub (Artie),193 plow,22 sickle mower,144 cultivator,54a blade,59" belly mower,wheel weights
1944 John Deere B , A-3 B-3 two way plow.....Grandpa's Deere,Still can't find his FARMALL A
1944 John Deere B , A-3 B-3 two way plow.....Grandpa's Deere,Still can't find his FARMALL A
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Re: 18ft trailer
John,
i had the same exact problem. However, mine is a 98 Nissan and requires a special computerized adapter, due to brake light and turn signal being 2 separate wires. Box puts them back together.
Ran all new wires. Problem ended up being the "box". Guy at parts house replaced it 3 times to no avail. I finally ordered a different brand off the 'Net and bingo. Lights.
i had the same exact problem. However, mine is a 98 Nissan and requires a special computerized adapter, due to brake light and turn signal being 2 separate wires. Box puts them back together.
Ran all new wires. Problem ended up being the "box". Guy at parts house replaced it 3 times to no avail. I finally ordered a different brand off the 'Net and bingo. Lights.
In the middle of every difficulty lies opportunity. - Albert Einstein
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Roy Edenfield
Deep South CubFest #10
February 14 & 15, 2020
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Roy Edenfield
Deep South CubFest #10
February 14 & 15, 2020
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Re: 18ft trailer
Some new vehicles require very special boxes. My 2013 Ram didn't have the factory controller, and the dealership claimed they couldn't add it. First aftermarket from Draw-Tite didn't work at all; a very good trailer guy was scratching his head, found out from Ram that they use the wires for more than one signal, so it was seeing current all the time. A better, more expensive controller ending up being the fix. The lesson I learned is that, if at all possible, get the factory brake controller. Life, and wiring, is not so simple anymore!
Rick Spivey
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
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'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
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55 F-Cub - snow plow and chains
3 Demonstrators Restored.
"Bette" - 22 mower
"Roxie" - 144 Complete Cults'
"Sandy"(Done) 193 Plow
1950 Demo, "Billie"
-(Woods 59")
Corn Stalk Cutter
23a Disc
&
2005 Mahindra w/FEL - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: IL, Paris just off of Interstate 70
Re: 18ft trailer
I had lights before, off my ram truck. they just stopped working. I tried hooking up to both my rams and it doesnt work on either the 07 or the 99.
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Re: 18ft trailer
somewhere a dead short?
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Re: 18ft trailer
John:
That happens to me just about every couple of years. Seems to be some sort of tradition or whatever with my trailers. Personally I think the problem is usually either in the connector to the trailer or the connector at the vehicle. Those are the two trouble spots for corrosion - that is corrosion inside the connectors. I have had to change out the wiring completely in my trailer 2 years ago and it looks like I am going to have to do it again.
Did you google it? I did -trailer light not working on 07 and 09 Dodge Rams
Found this in one of the threads:
Trailer running lights not working...WTH
That happens to me just about every couple of years. Seems to be some sort of tradition or whatever with my trailers. Personally I think the problem is usually either in the connector to the trailer or the connector at the vehicle. Those are the two trouble spots for corrosion - that is corrosion inside the connectors. I have had to change out the wiring completely in my trailer 2 years ago and it looks like I am going to have to do it again.
Did you google it? I did -trailer light not working on 07 and 09 Dodge Rams
Found this in one of the threads:
Trailer running lights not working...WTH
So I got tired of trying to figure out what was going on with that damn relay, so I did the smart thing- bought a $10 trailer wiring kit with the LED indicators on the 4-pin flat connector. ( I only tow utility trailers, so I'll only ever use the 4 pin connector) I spliced the wires into the existing trailer wires before the relay and according to the LED's on the new 4 way flat, everything is working as it should. Why didn't I do this sooner....
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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Re: 18ft trailer
Check the fuses on your trucks. both of them will have separate fuses for the trailer lights that will blow without affecting the truck lights (usually in the fuse box under the hood). If the fuses are blown, disconnect the wiring right at the sockets and replace the fuse. You may have a bad socket, or a strand of wire shorted inside the plug of the trailer.John(videodoc) wrote:I had lights before, off my ram truck. they just stopped working. I tried hooking up to both my rams and it doesnt work on either the 07 or the 99.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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Re: 18ft trailer
If your trucks lights are working without a trailer and trailer has good connections, voltage and a good ground... get this. http://www.drawtite.com/modulite1.html Reason....the body module monitors electrical current draw and will shut down the circut to save the body module. You may have voltage to the trailer lamps but not enough AMPS. Be very careful and don't destroy the body module. A good connection (no voltage connected) ohm's is .3 of a ohm.(Max)
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:23 pm
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- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub Low Boy w/ FH Mott Flail Mower
1953 Cub w/ sprayer and 54A blade (Chompers)
1954 Cub w/fast hitch (Ira)
1948 Cub ( Papa Paul)with Henderson loader..
1951 Mutt mix Cub (BattleAx
1950 Farmall Cub (basket case demo)
Cub parts tractor
2019 " KuB"ota 2601 loader and roto tiller
1951 Ferguson TEA 20 (parts)( Uncle Rusty)
F/H Disc Harrow for cub L-38
C-22 Sickle Bar Mower
IH C2 and C3 mower
Universal tool attachment with disc hillers..Rear cultivators (various tips
York Rake for Cub home made
Single bottom Plow for Cub F194
Gravely 5660 12 hp/ w snoblower.rototiller,bush hog - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: 18ft trailer
Ohms don't necessarily mean voltage....By that I mean a single frayed strand or connection will show as completing the circuit....An open neutral will cause an assortment of problems....You say you don't have lights, but do you have any voltage at all at the socket...And yes the new vehicles are a pain with their adapters etc...If you have a 4 pin check there also...Certain add-ons ( light bars etc) have to be ordered for a specific vehicle because of the wiring of the tail and directional..One will cancel the other out...It can be frustrating...Dave
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Re: 18ft trailer
pickerandsinger stated: Ohms don't necessarily mean voltage....By that I mean a single frayed strand or connection will show as completing the circuit
Correct, on a circuit like the trailer wiring I would isolate the trailer from the truck and do a voltage drop test, only to save the trucks body module if there is a problem with the trailers wiring.
Ohms check is a good way to check for bad connections…broken wires mostly in low voltage circuits. In higher voltage circuits I’ve found it better to pressure check them. Frayed strands/bad connections under high AMP draws will cause higher resistance in the circuit sometimes causing the body module to “time out” to protect itself,,,but only on a high AMP draw
Correct, on a circuit like the trailer wiring I would isolate the trailer from the truck and do a voltage drop test, only to save the trucks body module if there is a problem with the trailers wiring.
Ohms check is a good way to check for bad connections…broken wires mostly in low voltage circuits. In higher voltage circuits I’ve found it better to pressure check them. Frayed strands/bad connections under high AMP draws will cause higher resistance in the circuit sometimes causing the body module to “time out” to protect itself,,,but only on a high AMP draw
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Re: 18ft trailer
I fought my LL 18' for a day and found that it would work only on 1 truck, not the other,--also worked on everyone elses trucks,---just not my 97 F-350!
PROBLEM!!!!---it was in the grounding!--it showed good but I ended up having to put on bigger wire and put it under 1 of the big winch mount bolts!---that was 2 years ago and has worked ever since!---dont add up, BUT lighting is a royal pain!
P. S. DONT use 4 wire flat connector in IL.
.-- ILL. DOT will ticket you!---reason?--you dont have brakes hooked up with 4 wire flat plug!---I changed all of mine to 7 wire round with flat terminals inside! thanks; sonny
PROBLEM!!!!---it was in the grounding!--it showed good but I ended up having to put on bigger wire and put it under 1 of the big winch mount bolts!---that was 2 years ago and has worked ever since!---dont add up, BUT lighting is a royal pain!
P. S. DONT use 4 wire flat connector in IL.
.-- ILL. DOT will ticket you!---reason?--you dont have brakes hooked up with 4 wire flat plug!---I changed all of mine to 7 wire round with flat terminals inside! thanks; sonny
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6547
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 10:16 pm
- Zip Code: 61944
- Tractors Owned: -
55 F-Cub - snow plow and chains
3 Demonstrators Restored.
"Bette" - 22 mower
"Roxie" - 144 Complete Cults'
"Sandy"(Done) 193 Plow
1950 Demo, "Billie"
-(Woods 59")
Corn Stalk Cutter
23a Disc
&
2005 Mahindra w/FEL - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: IL, Paris just off of Interstate 70
Re: 18ft trailer ***FIXED*****
Well, 3rd day of trouble shooting. After reading all the posts, THANKS, by the way. I went straigth to the plug and measured out to the first junction, nothing. I had wired the new studd short so i had to splice in the old plug to hook up to the truck. SHould have known that was trouble. Turns out the the flat four connector was bad internally, even though there was "continuity there" it still was not allowing enough voltage to pass. So off to the parts store and get a new flat four connector. And wala, it worked. THANKS once again for everyones help.
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Re: 18ft trailer
Simular problem on Tecumseh solid state ignition. Wire from alternator showed continuity, but was not carrying enough current to make solid state give blue spark. Changed wire from stator to solid state and instant happiness! Btw anyone need a HH100 engine with valve train problems?
"I'd rather be a mechanic in the shop"- Henry Ford
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
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