Farmall Cub

I need one half of the cast iron clamp that holds the exhaust pipe to the hood. Anyone out there know where I could get one?

These clamps are difficult to find. I have rigged mine with a muffler clamp. Can send you a picture if you want one.
Tom

Thanks Tom, but I bit the bullet and got one from AG Parts First LLC jstair@agpartsfirst.com. $17.00 + $11.88 shipping. It's only my neighbors money.
This seems to me to be a critical clamp as it supports the long exhaust pipe. If not really secure, some serious damage can be done to the new pipe and muffler.

Would not be too hard to make one if I had one myself or had access to a good metal cutting vertical band saw. But, I don't.

UpdateI

Drove the Oliver back over to my neighbor, Mike. Runs really smooth and idles great. Around $350 spent on points, plugs, spark plug wires, oil, filter, new battery, muffler and exhaust pipe. New oil pressure gauge and volt meter. Changed over to one wire alternator. Charging at 14.4 volts.

Not completely finished, but wanted to pressure wash engine while hood is still off. Still has some issues. Need to drain and flush transmission. Brakes are not working very much. Note: Anyone had experience with servicing these particular disc brakes.

This was a fun project. Thanks to J.R. and Steve for their help

Ron,
Here are a few pictures I thought you would enjoy. One of our buddies that was at the show this week-end has a 550 that he picked up a couple years back. Really, really sweet tractor. I sure wish it was in my stable.

Roy, this is another one that Steve K. saw yesterday at a show in an adjoining county. A gas model just like the one we worked on. I sent a copy to my neighbor Mike to show him that he has a lot of work to do to make his look this good.

Bringing this thread back, because of another issue. After pressure washing there is a steady drip of oil from PTO shaft. Should be a seal just behind the collar. If I remove the 4 bolts that hold it, will the PTO assy slide out? Is this a simple fix or do I open a can of worms?

Big Hoss,

There are two seals on the PTO that can cause a leak. The seal that you refer to is the easy replacement. Just remove the four bolts and replace the seal that is in that housing. Easy peasy.
BUT, if it is the O-ring seal that is causing the leak, you have a different situation. The entire shaft has to be removed. This entails getting up under the tractor and removing a set screw at the PTO clutch assembly. The shaft can then be removed from the rear of the tractor. Be very careful when removing the shaft, though. All the clutch discs are on that shaft and if any of them get out of alignment it could be a nightmare to line them up again. The actual O ring replacement is a breeze once the shaft is out of the tractor. I hope this helps. Let me know if this is not clear enough. Edit: If the oil is coming from around the actual shaft it is the O ring, if it is coming from the larger area where the seal in the housing resides, then, obviously it is that lip seal.

Tom

Thanks Tom. Based upon your post, it is coming from around the shaft. The outer edge seems to be dry. Not good news. I thought that maybe it would have a seal on the shaft as the cub. I have an owners manual, but of course it does not show anything about this. Do you know if there is a downloadable online service manual that would show the PTO?

Well, that is too bad, but it really isn't that big of a project as long as you move slowly. I don't have any source online, but the IT service manual has extensive info on it. Maybe you can check out a copy at the local tractor supply store near you. The owner of the tractor really should invest in one of these manuals or something like it. There is also a CD available on Ebay that has the entire factory service manual on it for every Oliver tractor in the era of the 550, I think that it costs around $10-15.

Tom

Ron, check this out. Only $10.00.

http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/837928-oliver-550-tractor-workshop-parts-manual

Thanks Roy. Looks like just what I need.