All non-Cub/Cadet/IH/Farmall/Case tractor and machinery discussions.
Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:22 pm
How big of a tractor is needed to run a McCormick 45 baler. Would my H handle one?
Also, what could be wrong with one that is not tying the bales tight? Is there an adjustment to the knotter?
Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:21 am
If you have flat ground, and are not pulling a wagon, a Super "C" will pull it. Your "H" should be fine.
If by tight bales, you mean not heavy enough, there are two screw levers on the bale chamber that regulate tighness/weight.
Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:29 am
Bill, we pulled a "45" with our "H", it did ok, other than not having live PTO. You'll have to explain the tying problem but yes, there are knotter adjustments that are pretty touchy, as I recall. I don't have any experience adjusting them but I remember Dad fussing with them.
Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:39 am
I know there is an adjustment on them,must have been hard to do as there was always some cussing involved
Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:21 am
Bill, Never pulled an IH with a H but have baled under many different conditions with a JD14T. All that hills meant was a lower gear which did not then feed as fast as the baler would take it but it is still doable. We always pulled a wagon unless who we were baling for wanted it dropped instead of paying the cost to put it in the barn. Quite frankly I prefered the M but when it was busy the H got the job without second thought. Live power was nice but there are other things too. I was baling for my uncle one time using his Co-Op E5 (it is a Cockshut but I don't know their number) which had live power and lots of it but was so clumsy that the next day I put the M on it. I'll have to going into hiding for saying this on this forum but the best tractor I ever used for baling was a JD 720. We also pulled a big OLD Case with the H but it had its own engine. Vern
Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:47 am
Bill try this with the knotters. The 45 I believe has what is known as a pull off knotter. The bill hooks face the rear of the baler and the knots are pulled off by the hay being fed into the bale chamber. Most knotters do not need much adjustment once they are set. My suggestion. Remove the knives that cut the twine and sharpen them. On this style knotter they had to be very sharp or the knots would not pull off. Lubricate all moving parts with a good penetrating oil. Kroil. If needed call me and we'll talk about it. I have a McCormick T24 and they use the style of knotters that have a wiper arm to take the knots off the bill hook. I freed up the knotters and used a can of Kroil after I got it and baled over 1000 bales with out missing a knot.
Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:21 pm
Thanks guys. I haven't bought this yet. It is about three hours away and haven't decided if I want to make a road trip. I was just curious if it would work. It would mostly just sit around behind the H and only be used about twice a year to bale about an acre to keep it loose.
Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:19 pm
Hate to say this, BUT we had 6 of the cussed things and junked every one!!!---we heard that they would never tie right from the factory, and mustave been true since we paid from 5.00 to 15.00 for each one of them!---We finally ended up with a New-Holland 66 and it did a great job for all the rest of our small bale days!---we went to 6x6 rounds at the tail end of our cow raising days! thanks; sonny
Fri Nov 02, 2012 7:21 am
Cyrus McCormick and August Claas (company I work for) perfected the knotter that Claas continues to use. Not being familiar with the 45, I am very familiar with the offshoot of the original that Mr Claas patented. (for many years I served as service trainer on the small square balers) I would be glad to have a look if you decide to bring her home, Bill.
Fri Nov 02, 2012 7:45 am
Thanks Stan, I think I will pass on it for now.
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