off topic charging

[mikeintn]

Hello everyone I know this is the wrong color but I did"nt find out
anything on the other forum I know someone can tell me here, I
am wireing the charging system on a 1950 cockshutt 30, its 6v
neg. ground with a small reg. 2 post it has bat. & gen. on it, I
have a wire from the bat. on the reg. to the amp. gauge, a wire
from the gen. post of the reg. to the A on the gen. I think thats
right but don't know where the F on the gen. would go, I looked
on the how to but didn't find anything to help me. Thanks: Mike

[Eugene]

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23361

The above post has several wiring diagrams. The first diagram may be the one you are loking for.

Also, the How To forum of this site contains a link to many IH wiring diagrams. Below is a number of generic wiring diagrams.

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIn ... 065733&f=0

You may not find the exact wiring diagram for your tractor. One or more of the wiring diagram should come close.

Eugene

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

MNO, I believe that is actually a cutout rather than a regulator. The F lead on an International would go to a terminal on the light switch that controlled the charge. I do not know what Cockshut used, but for testing you can simply ground it

[Jim Becker]

but don't know where the F

Been there.

I would be inclined to think the wiring should be positive ground, but whatever. Since you are trying to clean up the wiring, polarize the generator whichever way you end up. I suspect, as John said, that it is a cut-out. If it really only has Bat and GEN terminals, that is all it can be. This diagram from the ATIS Cub FAQ should be substantially correct for the charging related parts.

Note that this cut-out has a third terminal but only 2 are used, labeled the same as the 2 on your cut-out. The main diffeence is that your light switch (if you have one) is likely to look different. You may have to experimant with your switch and an ohm meter to find a lug on the switch that is grounded or has a couple ohms resistance to ground. If you don't have one, and there is no F terminal on the cut-out, you can ground the generator F terminal directly to the generator shell.

[mikeintn]

Thanks guys, it is a cut-out, it don"t have a F post on it, so would it be ok
to ground the F post on the gen. and just run it that way if it charges? it
don"t have the right light switch in it I"m sure, and is there any different
in a gen. for a cut-out or a regulator. could I just put a regulator on it
and run the F from the gen. to it? any pros or cons to go with the regulator
or just ground the F the on the gen. Mike

[FCUBMAN]

Others will chime in - but if you ground the field terminal, the generator will always put out all it can once sufficient RPM's are built up. This will overcharge the battery, damaging it, and will probably burn out the generator. You need some value of resistance in the field circuit. Someone here must know the value of the resistors on the old Cubs with just the cutouts. TM Tractor parts sells them as:
Stock# EL658
6 volt
lighting switch
generator field resistance coil.

You could put a Cub lighting switch on, which will provide both a place to mount the resistor, and a means of switching it in and out of the circuit.
Just my $.02
These parts are probaly available used, too, from any of the sponsors at the bottom of these pages.

[mikeintn]

Ok I guess I should have known it would charge wide open if I just
grounded the F. so could I put a regulator on it? if not I will find a
light switch. Thanks:

[mikeintn]

I forgot to say I agree with you Jim, I change it back to pos. ground.

[Jim Becker]

If it is the original type 3-brush generator that was used with a cut-out system, you can probably use it with the generator F permanently grounded. These generators are somewhat self limiting. My Farmall B has had the F terminal grounded for years (actually decades). My other tractors with the HIGH/LOW switches are permanently left on the HIGH setting. Only if you are going to run the tractor all day for several days back to back, you may not want to. The guys that are maintaining 10 acres of lawn with there Cubs and rotary mowers may want to use the LOW setting much of the time. When you get it running with the F terminal grounded, check your output on the ammeter. If it charges more than 11 amps, move the third brush in the generator to reduce the output. (If you find the battery getting overcharged you can turn it down a bit more to compensate for that too.)

Note: Output of the generator will drop back a bit as it warms up. The 11 amp limit is for a warmed up system. Cold they will run a couple more amps. Also, check where 0 really is on your ammeter. They are rarely centered. The 11 amps should be read from wherever the meter zeroes.

By the way, the field resistor on the light switch or built into a cut-out is 2.8 ohms. Adding a resistor up to that value will reduce output down as far as about 4 amps.

[mikeintn]

Hey Jim thought I let you know what I"ve done, I grounded the F. it did
not charge, so I took it apart two brushes was wore down so I put two
in it, clean it up, put it back, now it charges if you ground the F. and
idle about 5 amp. runs about 15 amp. the gauge is center when off,
done some test it will run with the bat. cable off at idle, with lights on
it has to be just above idle, thats with the cut-out on it, I took the regulator off my 1960 cub and put on it and would not charge any, with
F. hooked to the regulator or grounded, I was surprise that it didn"t
charge with the regulator, the tractor not beening used just a show tractor
not many hrs. the cut-out must be bad after you turn it off and remove
the bat. cable it has a arc the first time you remove it, then it goes away,
it does have 3 brushes. Mike

[Jim Becker]

I took the regulator off my 1960 cub and put on it and would not charge any, with
F. hooked to the regulator or grounded. . .

Either a bad regulator or maybe you didn't get the regulator well grounded?

the cut-out must be bad after you turn it off and remove
the bat. cable it has a arc the first time you remove it. . .

Sounds like the cut-out relay is sticking. Might be able to adjust it to open/close at slightly higher voltage if it opens after the battery is disconnected.

[mikeintn]

I"m not sure whats going on there Jim, the regulator is new and it does
charge on the cub, [ although I don't think it charges enough as you
have to run engine at high rpm to be able to take bat. cable off and
it still run, but thats another story] I did run a jumper cable from reg.
to the bat. when I tried it, I'll give it another try tomorrow. Mike

[mikeintn]

Jim you was right the regulator was not grounded, the mounting hole
that I hooked the jumper cable to was mounted in rubber, hook it
on the other side and it charges. Thanks: Mike

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Mike, I forgot to say earlier, there is no such thing as the wrong color on antique tractors. Almost everyone here likes all of the old stuff.