How To Make Your Cub-54 or 54A Hydraulically Actuated

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Gary S.
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 381
Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 9:05 pm
Zip Code: 60102
Tractors Owned: '49 Farmall Cub purchased 1960
'59 International Lo-Boy purchased 1987
'48 Ford 8N family owned since new

L59 woods mower
Mott Flail mower 4'
Mott Flail mower 6'
Prewitt post hole digger with mounts for Cub and Ford
Grading and leveling blade with snow ext and hydraulic angle
Location: Algonquin Illinois

How To Make Your Cub-54 or 54A Hydraulically Actuated

Postby Gary S. » Fri Nov 10, 2006 10:30 pm

Hi all:

I wanted to share the following info on how I converted my snow plow to hydraulic angle operation.
I might add that I don't take credit for for the idea,but this is how I did it using these parts.
    1 - Spool 5 GPM Eaton Cessna 30921 OC Valve
    1 - 1x8x0.5 Dia. Hydraulic Cylinder
    1 - TM Tractor's Hydraulic By-Pass Block

I ordered these parts first so I knew what dimensions I needed to work with.While I waited for them, I got together these other items I would need:
    some 3/16 flat steel
    6 - 1 3/8" od x 1/2" od washers
    1 - 1/2" bolt 3 1/2" long for front cylinder mount
    1 - 1/2" nut,lock washer and jam nut for above
    1 - 1/2" pin 2 1/2" long for rear cylinder mount
    2 - 1/4" bolts and lock nuts for valve to plate mount
    2 - 1/8" spring clips

    Hose fittings
    2 - 1/4 female hydraulic couplers
    2 - 1/4 male hydraulic couplers
    2 - ST o-ring con 3/8 JIC 3/8 PS
    2 - 3/8 ST o-ring x 1/4 FP SW ST
    1 - 90 degree ST elbow 1/4 MP 1/4 FP
    1 - 90 degree MP 1/4"
    1 - 90 degree M. ELB 1/4 JIC 1/4 MP
    1 - 90 degree M. ELB 5/16 JIC 1/8 MP

Start by cutting out rear cylinder mounts to the dimensions shown. You will need 2 of them.
rear mt dimentions.jpg

From rear of square plow chassis arm measure toward front 8 1/2" and mark, see here:
rear mt distance.jpg

Line up center of hole in the bracket to the mark you made, clamp and weld. It will look like this:
weld of R mount.jpg

Clamp lower bracket half and to help with alignment, install mounting pin and weld.

Front mount is started with a 1/2" hole drilled 4" from the edge of the blade reinforcement,
Ft cyl mount.jpg

Make sure when you drill the hole that you are far enough forward so the nut fits underneath; you are drilling thru a piece of angle steel. Cut head off bolt and drill hole for spring clip. Bolt to frame, jam nut on top, nut and lock washer on bottom. Place washer, 1-3/8" x 1/2 on top of jam nut, then front cylinder clevis, then another washer and spring clip. Rear cylinder clevis is centered in rear bracket with washers and pinned in place. When done it will look like this:
cyl mount F view.jpg

Valve mount is cut out as shown here:
valve mount.jpg

...and installed under steering support,original bolts will be the right length. Mount valve to bracket with 1/4" bolts.

Now onto the bypass block. Install your 90 degree fitting now as you cannot after it's mounted. Use your favorite gasket sealer, I used Teflon tape and it leaked, so I had to drain the system, remove block and use Permatex. Drain hydraulic system and mount bypass block to tractor. I then mounted all fittings to valve, cylinder and bypass block so I could measure hose length.I ended up with a 76", a 67", and two 12" x 1/4"D hoses. Your mileage may vary!

Front cylinder hose goes to the rear outlet of the valve, the rear cylinder hose to the front outlet of the valve. These are the ports that are straight up out of the valve and are not marked on the valve. The bypass block hose goes to the valve and IS marked outlet. The last hose goes from upper 1/8" fitting on the original steel line block on the tractor see here for routing:
valve setup view.jpg the port marked inlet on the valve.

After all hoses are fitted and fluid refilled, turn over by hand to get fluid pumped into empty hoses, valve and cylinder and to check for pump dead ending. If you use this valve and cylinder and have hoses on correctly you won't have any trouble. When you're done, it will look like this:
side view.jpg

Now the rest of the family won't get upset every time you need the blade moved.

Have fun and thanks to Rudi for helping me put pictures to words.

Gary Starr :!: :D

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