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How To Build My Power Angle Project

Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:54 pm

I was sick and tired of getting on and off the cub every couple of minutes to angle the plow because of the type of driveways I did I was always having to change the angle, so after a while of looking on the forum, I got a bunch of ideas for power angle. So I started to get the stuff to do it, and over time, a few months, I got all of the stuff I “needed“ for the project, minus hose fittings and smaller stuff like that.

    1 - 2 spool Gresen Valve, old used valve from a loader on a tractor cost=75$
    1 - 1x24” double acting piston (too long but I had it in the garage, so I used it)
    1 - Bypass block off of eBay cost=25$


When I bought my bypass block, I started asking some friends about a valve, one of my friends had a 2 spool valve, with all of the hoses that he wasn’t’ sure ifn he wanted to sell, in the end I bought it for 75 bucks. After I got some time off of school to build everything, I started laying out my plans.

Since I had such a long piston, and I wasn’t really looking into buying one, I decided to mount the rear of my piston to where the axle pivot rod [“pin“ (part no. 650132 R1)] that holds the square lifting arms (brackets welded assembly) {part no. 651270 R91} and I substituted a 1x15+/-” galvanized bolt (that I also had laying around) for the pin.
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Then I took my blade and lifted it off of the floor so I could angle it by hand without any problems. I then decided the best place for the piston, which I figured out by cutting some threads off of a very large and long bolt, and that would be my “pin” to hold the piston down. Image
Then I took a square piece of 3/8” steel and welded it to the triangle part of the blade, which I knew would be strong. Image

Then I welded my “pin” the piece of bolt to the plate
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One problem I had was that my piston was way too long, but since I had it on hand, I didn’t need to buy another one, I just have to watch how far angled my plow goes.

After I got the piston mount figured out, I started to assemble my bypass block. I did have a problem with my type of block that I didn’t’ have clearance to mount a regular hydraulic fitting, but I don’t remember exactly why, so I used a water pipe fitting, which has held up with absolutely no problems after a year. Before I assembled everything, I looked at the drawing on the plans that I received with my block, and I figured out that I needed these:
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And this is what the block looked like after I put my fittings on:
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When I bought my bypass block, it came with these directions:
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They helped quite a lot actually, and it also came with a gasket, even though I had a new one because I was in the process of rebuilding my touch control also.


After I got my bypass block all mounted
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I started to mount my hoses from the block to my valve.
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After I was done that, I then attached the hoses from the valve to the piston
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Eventually I hope to add steel lines on the frame, with shorter hoses for flex.

When all was said and done, I just had to figure out a place to mount my valve, and for that winter I just had the valve by my feet, which did get old after a while, but I didn’t get any good ideas until this past summer when Nik (kinelbor) made a mount for my loader.
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This is a good spot, but it does tend to get in the way of the shifter, but I it still does shift, so as long as it works, I’m fine with it.

I added quick disconnects to the hoses a few weeks ago, and I think that this will be a good idea once I put them on my loader also.

Here is a link to the rest of all my pictures of my Power Angle Blade Project.
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