Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:45 pm
I am going to pull off the head from my cub soon . Was looking for advice on brand of torque wrench and whether it should be 3/8 or 1/2 inch or if it doesn't matter. Thanks
Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:04 am
Either 3/8" or 1/2" will do the job on the cub head.
1/2" will have more uses in other applications.
Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:41 am
I have over the years accumulated an assortment of torque wrenches both beam and clicker type. Most of the beam type are pretty good, and unless abused rarely need calibration. I recently bought a pair (1/2 and 3/8) Napa clicker wrenches I really love. The newer clicker wrenches are much better than the older ones and seem to hold their calibration better, they do however require some attention, mainly backing the settings off to 0 when putting them away for the day. that is to distribute the special lubricant they use in the mechanism. The new NAPA ones have a much louder click than my old Proto, and only cost about $30 for the 1/2 and $25 for the 3/8. One note, most of the 3/8 are in inch/lbs rather than the ft/lbs common on the 1/2 inch. Most of the in/lbs ones will not go high enough for the 45 ft/lbs (540 in/lbs) needed for the head bolts. NAPA tools are on sale about every other month, so if they are not on sale now, check back in a couple weeks.http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... 73&N=41831
Another note, NAPA sales run different times in different areas.
Fri Jul 25, 2014 10:09 am
Thanks John, I will check it out.
Fri Jul 25, 2014 3:53 pm
A socket adapter going from 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive is available.
My opinion, I would purchase a quality 1/2" drive torque wrench with the clicker.
Sun Jul 27, 2014 6:27 am
Good, I bought the 1/2 inch yesterday. Thanks
Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:42 pm
Just read this but I had to share….Recently I was torquing head bolts …( I have and old style 1/2 inch and a clicker 1/2 in and a 3/8 clicker) ..I was trying them against each other for accuracy( for the heck of it )….A friend of mine told me well, you use 3/8 ths to tighten them and 1/2 inch to break them…
Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:26 pm
Did you break the bolts with the 1/2 inch?
Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:03 am
No, I did with the 3/8ths though….
…Well one …And I really don't know why it broke…It was registering about 30 pounds on the second tightening go round and snapped off just above the threads…I turned it out with a set of vice grips pointed downward ( I had just enough to catch it) it came out really easy…Defective bolt ???….Maybe….It was a new grade 9….I also broke one taking it apart that I had to drill a hole in the center and got lucky and it came out with the dreaded easy out…I couldn't weld a nut on it….I was super careful, but again it came out fairly easy….
Sometimes you get the Bear, sometimes the Bear gets you, I guess…..
Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:36 am
Did you "chase" the bolt hole threads with a tap to clean them out before reinstalling? I had a similar thing happen with brand new stainless radiator bolts. After luckily getting out one that broke while torqueing, I chased all holes and easily was able to properly torque.
Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:31 pm
Do you have to chase the holes with a tap? Is running a bolt in and out several times so that it goes in and smoothly ok ? I don't have a tap but I could buy one.
Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:42 pm
A bolt won't work because it doesn't clean up the threads. Get a cheap tap and die set from Harbor Freight or similar for chasing threads.
Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:48 pm
Thanks we happen to have HF in town.
Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:12 pm
Lubricate and clean the tap often...go slooooowly. You'll be surprised how nicely things go back together when the bolt hole is clean! Torque will certainly be more accurate, too, without 60 years of friction/buildup!
Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:27 pm
Do you also chase the holes for air cleaner and plugs also?
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