Thu Mar 14, 2013 7:09 am
Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:03 am
Rob in NH wrote:pete, did you find out where the gas smell was coming from?
JackF wrote:You should not hear noise like that …Is the noise at the cap area or does it sound deeper?
Remove the cap and inspect the inside of it to see if anything is making contact, make sure the rotor is seated correctly…make sure the cap is seated correctly….wiggle the distributor shaft to see if the bushings are tight….check the distributor shaft to see if it bent.
Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:29 am
Thu Mar 14, 2013 2:23 pm
Eugene wrote:Local car dealerships get some of their parts from the auto parts stores.outdoors4evr wrote:Note: Using GM Parts on these engines really helps! My vehicles did not run well when I used Autozone or O'Reilley tuneup components.
Thu Mar 14, 2013 6:52 pm
Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:37 am
Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:32 pm
Sat Mar 16, 2013 8:20 pm
You’ll hear some noise from the spark arc and that’s it. If more than normal I would do some checking…pretty cold out there to be in the shoe leather mode…
Chevy truck front wheel bearings...
This is the way I did it when I couldn’t remove them.....The wheel bearing really gets rusted into the spindles. Ignore the attitude of the man in the video; he’s really not that bad in real life….he needs to work on a couple of Fords to adjust his altitude.
Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:00 pm
Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:59 am
Watched the video several times and tried to figure out how it would work on my suspension - came up empty...
Mon Mar 18, 2013 4:32 pm
JackF wrote:Peter Person wrote:Watched the video several times and tried to figure out how it would work on my suspension - came up empty...
You have a 2WD ... My apology sir for misleading you, I know how it is when someone tells you something and it isn’t anything like you‘re working on. I have the air hammer tool that Wakulla Bill told you about and it works good if the bearing isn’t rusted in very bad. If it’s rusted in bad on a 2WD drive I use a hydraulic Porta-Power, (rented from a parts store) put a adaptor on the foot of the ram place it on the frame rail; opposite side of truck, than put extensions on the ram and push(lot of pressure within reason) the hub flange on the bearing asm.. You can only do this on the back side(rear side of the truck) because the dust plate covers the front side. After you put pressure on the flange... release the ram... hit the flange opposite side you put pressure on with the ram very hard with a big mechanics’ hammer. Repeat this and with luck; after several times the bearing will come loose from the spindle. I had on many occasions; remove the spindle to push the bearing out with a press.
I forgot to write I always soak the interference area with a good rust breaker and heat area (lightly) to get the rust breaker in the rusted area.
Something I learned when I was forced to work on Fords… they always coated parts with interference area’s that were subject to high levels of moisture with moisture resistance grease. It made things a lot easier when taking apart. Since I learned the Ford trick I now do the same thing upon reassembly.
The fuel smell on the Astro.. I guess you checked the fuel regulator…they are big problems…if your SES light is off with no evaporative codes …your fuel evap system is sealed..it has to be external…fuel pressure side.
The ignition distributors have bushing problems which usually cause the rotor to clip the electrodes on the distributor cap….which causes the shoe leather mode on a very cold night…unless you have AAA.
Mon Mar 18, 2013 6:58 pm
Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:25 pm
Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:20 pm
Wakulla Bill wrote:PO404
Usually this code points to either carbon buildup or a bad EGR valve. However that doesn't rule out the following:
Open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit
Open or short in the ground circuit
Open or short in the PCM controlled voltage circuit
Bad PCM (less likely)
Check for carbon buid up first. You can clean the valve with carb cleaner, a rag and small wire brush.
Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:47 pm