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Wood Stove Help???

Anything that might not belong on the other message boards!
BigBill
10+ Years
10+ Years
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 5:02 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Location: in northern usa

Postby BigBill » Fri Nov 16, 2007 9:09 pm

I only heat with wood. I use a pipe damper along with the dampers on the stove. I also use two temp gages one on the stove and one on the pipe to regulate the heat out put in the stove and to regulate the heat going up the chimney to prevent creosote. Each stove installation is different and acts different too.

First the rule of thumb is to have the chimney pipe 25% larger than the stove pipe for draft on windless nights/days.

Example; If your stove pipe is 6" diameter your chimney pipe should be at least 8" diameter for good draft all the time.

My old house had a metalbestos 8" chimney(stainless) with a 6" stove pipe and i never had any chimney problems at all.

Now my new house with the clay chimney 8"x11" is a different system. I blocked off the fireplace with a steel plate with a 6" hole for the stove. I learned to light a piece of news paper first to get the draft going then put in the kindly and firewood and its good to go. Like i said each system has its quirks too.

With a gage on the stove i can regulate the temp and how fast the wood burns too without causing creosote. I can also regulate the heat going up the chimeny too with a gage on the pipe and a damper on the 6" pipe too. I have the wood burning down to a science now with this setup. I'm getting the best quality heat output that i can and burning less wood too at the sametime. You don't need to fill the stove to get the proper heat output.
BB
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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grumpy
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Postby grumpy » Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:59 pm

Just bringing this to the top and see if we can get an update on the stove :) Grump
David Dee Mock-Leonard

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints


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