154 cub lo boy clutch question

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Squamish Scotty
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Zip Code: V0N1H0

154 cub lo boy clutch question

Postby Squamish Scotty » Mon Oct 12, 2015 3:06 pm

Greetings

Currently have the clutch out to replace one of the 3 release lever/spring things that jumped ship :shock: :shock:

While i'm in there i'll replace them all but my question is regarding the amount of acceptable wobble of the clutch plate when attached to the transmission in put shaft.

When bolted up tight on on to said shaft mine shows a hell of a lot of wobble which could be the cause of my first mentioned problem.

I should mention it's a later model 154 and has a creeper drive

Any advice greatly appreciated

thanks

Scotty

seahaul
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Tractors Owned: LoBoy 154 with loader and 3-pt hitch
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Re: 154 cub lo boy clutch question

Postby seahaul » Mon Oct 12, 2015 3:59 pm

In my experience, any wobble of the clutch flywheel becomes worse very quickly and will damage other parts like the clutch and clutch brake. The transmission input shaft is usually worn producing this wobble. That shaft needs to have a good snug fit on the flywheel and run straight.
Charlie

Squamish Scotty
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Re: 154 cub lo boy clutch question

Postby Squamish Scotty » Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:31 pm

Thanks for the reply Charlie

I see what your saying....makes sense

After reading some older posts it looks like I'd have to split the tractor to get at that tx input shaft.....

thanks again

Scotty

seahaul
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Posts: 133
Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2009 1:04 pm
Zip Code: 28538
Tractors Owned: LoBoy 154 with loader and 3-pt hitch
LoBoy 185 with Woods mower and 3-pt hitch
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Circle of Safety: Y

Re: 154 cub lo boy clutch question

Postby seahaul » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:20 am

On a LoBoy 154, you don't actually "split the tractor". That term applies just to the Farmall Cubs where you actually have to separate the front end from the rear to get at the clutch.
On your LoBoy 154, you will have to remove the clutch drive shaft by unbolting the coupler attached to the engine flywheel, then slide the drive shaft forward enough to remove the throw-out bearing. Then the drive shaft is removed and you can unbolt and remove the clutch and clutch flywheel which is bolted to the transmission input shaft.
If the input shaft is worn and has to be replaced, it can be done with the transmission still in the tractor.
Inspect the clutch flywheel carefully for how it fits on the input shaft. This part is cast and is easy to break.

Eugene
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Re: 154 cub lo boy clutch question

Postby Eugene » Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:53 am

While you have the clutch apart check the bushing in the pressure plate, also check the bearings in the front of the creeper.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Squamish Scotty
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Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2015 5:11 pm
Zip Code: V0N1H0

Re: 154 cub lo boy clutch question

Postby Squamish Scotty » Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:56 pm

Seahaul and Eugene

thanks for the advice !

The clutch assy is now off and on the bench.

The clutch flywheel appears to be in tact and complete with no visible cracks in the collar.

Any body know the std ID of the clutch flywheel where it fits onto the tx input shaft ?

Or even the std OD of the tx input shaft where in fits onto the clutch flywheel ?

Reason I ask is I just fitted the clutch flywheel only onto the Tx input shaft and bolted her up real tight and when i wobble it by hand I've got way to much wobble.
Wonder if the bolt hole is worn or out of round or even the tx input shaft itself.

The bushing in the flywheel is present but it looks like its the main drive shaft that rides this bushing and not the tx input shaft...am I right ?

When I try to wobble just the tx input shaft without the flywheel fitted I get very little play on the shaft at all which may suggest the bearing in the creeper is ok.

However.....the creeper does jump out of high range a lot when I'm driving along so I may get into the creeper to address this and switch the bearing at the same time.

Is the creeper drive removable with the clutch removed ?

Sorry for waffling...hope this makes sense


Any advice greatly appreciated

Thanks

Scotty


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