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184 Throwout bearing
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 9:58 pm
- Zip Code: 38401
184 Throwout bearing
How big a deal is it to replace the throwout bearing on a 184? My clutch will no longer disengage. Tractor starts and runs OK, but if I want to drive it I have to start it in gear, and the only way to stop it is to shut off the engine. Is this something that can be replaced without completely disassembling the tractor?
CC 70, CC 100, CC 106, CC 128, CC 149, CC 169, CC 1000, CC 1450, CC 782 (2 of 'em, one early, one late), CC 982, CC 1782, Cadet 76, IH 184, IH 684, IH 3311, IH 3314, Case 222, Case 446, various Lawnboys and one old Snapper. Not all of 'em run...
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2784
- Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
- Zip Code: 48370
- Tractors Owned: 184
- Location: Oxford, MI
Re: 184 Throwout bearing
If you do the work from underneath the tractor, it's not that bad a job.
Disconnect steering shaft and rotate forward out of way.
Remove center rockshaft assembly.
Remove throwout bearing fork (Mark which side is front facing)
Loosen the U-Joint and slide forward. (There is a C-Clip that must be moved forward first)
Remove driveshaft, throwout bearing and U-Joint.
Inspect the fork and throwout bearing carrier for wear. Weld back up and grind to shape. The fork tines should be rectangle.
Inspect the pressure plate fingers for wear. If the fingers are worn, then it can't disengage the clutch.
Check out all the clutch linkages. Any slop will contribute to the clutch disengagement issue. You may be able to adjust the clutch pedal some to help.
Spend plenty of time on adjusting the clutch when reassembling. There is barely enough clutch play to get the clearance numbers the manual calls out.
Disconnect steering shaft and rotate forward out of way.
Remove center rockshaft assembly.
Remove throwout bearing fork (Mark which side is front facing)
Loosen the U-Joint and slide forward. (There is a C-Clip that must be moved forward first)
Remove driveshaft, throwout bearing and U-Joint.
Inspect the fork and throwout bearing carrier for wear. Weld back up and grind to shape. The fork tines should be rectangle.
Inspect the pressure plate fingers for wear. If the fingers are worn, then it can't disengage the clutch.
Check out all the clutch linkages. Any slop will contribute to the clutch disengagement issue. You may be able to adjust the clutch pedal some to help.
Spend plenty of time on adjusting the clutch when reassembling. There is barely enough clutch play to get the clearance numbers the manual calls out.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 1:28 pm
- Zip Code: 49546
- Tractors Owned: 1951 F-Cub, 1964 Cub Cadet 120, 1985 Kubota B7200D
Re: 184 Throwout bearing
I rebuilt the clutch on my 184 last year and it's not that bad of a job overall and took me approximately 6 hrs. Of course I couldn't stay focused and worked on a few other things at the same time, (cleaning rockshaft and supports, lubing, checking bolts, cleaning, etc.) but you get the idea. Even though only the throw out bearing was technically bad, I replaced the disc and finger assembly while I had it all apart. It's simply not worth my time to tear it down again for something that's relatively inexpensive to replace while I have it apart.
The one big thing you will struggle with that Outdoors didn't mention is the PTO. You have to partially disassemble the PTO to get the clutch out and that means that the tension spring has to be removed and then re-installed. In my mind, re-installing the tension spring was the biggest hassle to the job. One of the members posted a trick for doing this and it would be worthwhile looking it up. Wish I would have seen it before I did mine, I'm sure it would have saved a lot of aggravation. Oh yeah, great time to put in 2 new belts if you're going to use that PTO.
The one big thing you will struggle with that Outdoors didn't mention is the PTO. You have to partially disassemble the PTO to get the clutch out and that means that the tension spring has to be removed and then re-installed. In my mind, re-installing the tension spring was the biggest hassle to the job. One of the members posted a trick for doing this and it would be worthwhile looking it up. Wish I would have seen it before I did mine, I'm sure it would have saved a lot of aggravation. Oh yeah, great time to put in 2 new belts if you're going to use that PTO.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2784
- Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
- Zip Code: 48370
- Tractors Owned: 184
- Location: Oxford, MI
Re: 184 Throwout bearing
Thanks for mentioning the PTO Tensioner. Easy way to do this is...
Remove right side cover.
Use a 3/4" box end on the PTO Tensioner pulley to loosen the belt and slide belts toward the front of the engine past the side of the pulley.
Once clear of pulley release tension on wrench. This now allows you to remove the spring from the tensioner. Take note of which way it is in there (take a picture). It can be installed backwards and hit the clutch.
Remove right side cover.
Use a 3/4" box end on the PTO Tensioner pulley to loosen the belt and slide belts toward the front of the engine past the side of the pulley.
Once clear of pulley release tension on wrench. This now allows you to remove the spring from the tensioner. Take note of which way it is in there (take a picture). It can be installed backwards and hit the clutch.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
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