still not charging

[BigBill]

I changed the frayed wiring, new regulator, new battery. Changed the amp Gage. When we first fired it up it had a ground problem. We had it charging at first. Then nothing.
Now I polarized it and when I turn the key on without starting it, it shows charging on the amp Gage.
I have no clue now....

[staninlowerAL]

Try swapping the wires on the amp gage if it is showing chg when you first turn on the key and before starting.

[Eugene]

Numbered Cub with starter/generator or just a generator?

[BigBill]

I tried swapping the wires on the amp Gage. Nada. It's the starter generator. The engine flus over really fast. The starting and machine runs great like new. The engine has a fresh rebuild on it. It's been sitting for two years when I got it the PO passed what a buy for $800 running with a 3260 deck.
It's such a sweet machine to mow with.

[gitractorman]

Are you sure the gauge is working correctly?

[BigBill]

I swapped the Gauge from a cub cadet I have for parts. I was just thinking that today to try another amp Gauge. Good thinking. The original one stopped working. I think it wore itself out bouncing around with the old electrical system.

[BigBill]

I have a pinched nerve in my hip so it may take me time to swap the gauge.

[randallc]

Have you taken the starter/Generator apart to give it a good cleaning and check brushes. Sometimes that is all it takes, and sometimes not.

[Larry B]

If the tractor will start and run before I would pull the start/gen apart get a volt meter and measure the voltage at the battery with everything off and then when running. The voltage should be around 13 volts when running. If so it is charging the battery regardless of what the ammeter says. If engine running battery voltage is lower than battery voltage with key off then measure voltage from ground to wire from start/gen to regulator with engine running and see if it is above 12 volts. If I was swapping out guages I would opt for a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. Much better indicator of what is happening. (my $00.02)

Larry B

[Eugene]

The starter/generator cranks over the engine. The charging problem is not the starter/generator.

The problem is located some place from the voltage regulator to the battery.

[BigBill]

I went through the whole system. New wire harness front and rear, new regulator, good s/g, new battery. We had it charging at first. We had a ground cable problem fixed that. The amp gage didn't move and the battery died while mowing
Now replaced the amp gage with a used one. It goes to charge when I turn the key on. No discharge when I turn on the headlines on with the engine off.

This 154 runs awesome. The engine flys over on a full battery. Need to get a new amp gage.

[Larry B]

Unless your amp guage is open I doubt if that is the problem. Here are some things to try to check the charging system.

remove the belt from the S/G and the wires from the F and A terminals. take a piece of heavy guage wire (10 at least) and connect one end to the + on the battery and touch the other to the A terminal on the S/G for a couple seconds to spin it up to speed and remove the wire and see how long it takes the S/G to spin down. Should be like 5 seconds. Next, connect the wire to the A terminal for 2 seconds then immediately move it to the F terminal. the S/G should spin down much quicker due to the electric braking action. If it does the S/G is good. If no difference probably have an open field coil.

Reconnect the wires to the A and F terminals on the S/G. There should be a wire from the F term on the S/G to the F term on the regulator and a wire from the A terminal of the S/G to the GEN term on the regulator. Disconnect the wire from the BATT term on the and measure voltage from wire to ground. Should be battery voltage. Original wire went through a connector and the ammeter. If you don't have battery voltage on the wire there is a wiring problem. Be sure the frame of the regulator has good ground connection. Have seen charging problems from corroded ground connection on regulator.

If you have battery voltage on the wire reconnect it to the BATT term on the regulator. Measure battery voltage with everything off. Start tractor and run at high idle. measure voltage from ground to F terminal on S/G. Should be around 13-17 volts. Next measure from ground to the BATT terminal of the regulator. Should be 13-14 volts. Next measure from ground to + on battery. Should be the same as BATT terminal on regulator and higher than battery voltage with tractor not running. If so then the system is charging.

The ammeter thing is odd. Most meters are marked + and - on the terminals. + goes to the battery and - to the BATT term on the regulator and the fuse to the lights. I don't think the current for the ignition system on a 185 goes through the ammeter but the lights do. Ammeter should show discharge if you turn on the lights with key on or off. I am assuming that when you rewired you retained the original wiring scheme.

I hope some of this may help
Larry B

[BigBill]

Got it bad amp gauge. It worked after all the work was done then died. It was constantly bouncing around(needle).
Now the battery is fully charged she starts up fast. She runs awesome.

Next is new square o rings in the hyd selector valve. The 3pt and mower leak down. No leaks on the outside.

Then a total inspection then if she passes new paint.