time for rebuild ?

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mjr46
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby mjr46 » Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:51 am

international wrote:ok ,thanks guys i ordered new domed pistons , having block bored and head decked new valves and springs and cut valve seats ...leaving everything else alone... just std bearings in crank and rods . i want this little guy to live a while longer as i cant afford a new kubota or other mid size tractor ! gonna paint it right this time too , rattle can international paint faded pretty bad !!!
Glad to hear you're doing it "right"!! Just make sure if you're not doing anything with the crank that the machine shop inspect it for taper and worn thrust area, lots of clutch action in these causes issues there.........but what do I know..lol

Fitzp20102
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby Fitzp20102 » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:22 pm

In reading this, I think I might be lined up for a rebuild too. I have a 154 - Serial Number 020527. I'm suffering from loss of power. I've rebuilt and cleaned the fuel delivery and carb. The plugs seem pretty clean, and I've got good compression with the exception of #3 only has a little over 90lbs as opposed to the others running about 110-120lbs. Ran the machine today for the first time this season. Still had power issues just mowing. Noticed some smoking out of the vented filler cap. Is that and indicator that I should be looking at a rebuild too?

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gitractorman
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby gitractorman » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:34 pm

Ok, I'm going to contradict what I said in your other post. If you've got around 100 psi on all cylinders, then the rings are in ok shape. The 90 isn't even that bad, although obviously not as good as the others. I'd definitely do the Sea Foam treatment, pour some in the engine oil, some in the gas tank, then spray it in the spark plug holes and let her sit for a week while soaking the pistons down. This will help clean up all the crud in the engine, and get rid of carbon buildup in the valves, and should help with your oil blow by.

Next, I'd check your valves to make sure they're adjusted and working properly. One sticking valve, or one with a piece of crud in it could rob you of power and could be causing your 90-psi problem.

Once you're sure the valves are adjusted properly, I'd do a full tune-up, including checking the timing. If the timing is not set right, or if the points aren't opening correctly, you can quickly loose power in a C-60 engine.
Cub Cadets 682, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller

Fitzp20102
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby Fitzp20102 » Tue Apr 14, 2015 3:10 pm

GI,

I loaded it with SeaFoam like you previously described. Thanks for that. I actually found it right at my Ace Hardware store. Added to oil and spark plug holes. I hadn't thought about the timing. That's a great point (hahah)...

Will proceed with further investigation.

Not looking forward to a rebuild...

BigBill
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby BigBill » Tue Apr 14, 2015 3:39 pm

On every engine rebuild I get the heads cut .010" just to make sure there flat. The block I check the deck where the head mates with a machinists straight edge with a flashlight. I look for openings, warpage. If it's badly warped I get the block decked enough to clean.
We never know what these machines have gone through in the past. If the crank mic's ok within spec I get it polished and the oil holes chamfered. The camshaft should be inspected for wear. The lifter bottoms where they ride on the cam lobes should be flat. A straight edge will show wear. The old valve grinders had the grinding feature for the worn lifters.
Every headgasket I install I spray the high tac sealer on it. Remember to retorque it after the engine has been run in.

I burnish the cylinders and piston skirts with a moly paste and the crank and crank bearings. The cam bearings and cam lobes. The lifters too. One the engine is fully assembled I prime the oil system.
I never start or turn over a dry engine.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby BigBill » Tue Apr 14, 2015 3:44 pm

Fitzp20102 wrote:In reading this, I think I might be lined up for a rebuild too. I have a 154 - Serial Number 020527. I'm suffering from loss of power. I've rebuilt and cleaned the fuel delivery and carb. The plugs seem pretty clean, and I've got good compression with the exception of #3 only has a little over 90lbs as opposed to the others running about 110-120lbs. Ran the machine today for the first time this season. Still had power issues just mowing. Noticed some smoking out of the vented filler cap. Is that and indicator that I should be looking at a rebuild too?


Try seafoam. Tune up? Timing? Adjust the valves?
A little blow by is acceptable these older engines breathe. There is no positive crankcase ventilation.(pvc)
Even the older cars used this system except it was under the car with a vent pipe.

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gitractorman
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1951 Farmall Cub
1977 IH Cub
1966 IH Cub
1965 IH Lo Boy
1964 IH Lo Boy
1949 Farmall Cub
Several IH 154 Lo Boys
1979 IH 184 Lo Boy
Simplicity 4416 Sovereign
Simplicity Conquest
Simplicity Legacy 4x4 Diesel
Mitsubishi MT180D 4x4 Diesel
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Grand Island, NY

Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby gitractorman » Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:41 pm

Technically, there is a positive crank case vent. It is on the front of the engine, small about a 1/4" diameter copper tube that runs to the air intake from the front of the engine block. If it gets plugged up, and they commonly do after 40+ years of use, it will cause blowby out the oil dipstick tube. I'd pull it off and clean it out also.
Cub Cadets 682, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller

international
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby international » Thu May 07, 2015 4:23 pm

Ok guys im back ....engine is mostly together but i hit a wall with the governor installation . I set the geartrain at top dead and there are 2 dots on the cam and one dot on idler gears with those lined up respectivley with the crank gear the dot for governor timing does not end up where it should at top dead , it is closer to mid stroke when i can see that dot through the front cover ? What am i doing wrong ?

outdoors4evr
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby outdoors4evr » Fri May 08, 2015 8:16 am

The governor doesn't need to be timed. I am guessing that the distributor drive had been out previously. As long as the distributor is pointing to 1:00 when the #1 cylinder is at TDC (compression stroke) then all is well.
If you want all the dots to line up, then remove the distributor drive, rotate governor till the dots line up, then reinstall the distributor pointing to 1:00.
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Jim Becker
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby Jim Becker » Fri May 08, 2015 9:37 am

As outdoors4evr said, with battery ignition the governor doesn't really need to be timed. Any error can be compensated for in the battery ignition drive. The timing mark on the idler for the governor gear is on the back side. You need to pull the ignition unit (and probably the seal) to see it.

Getting the governor gear timed, or even in place in any position, is easier if the ignition unit is off. Do this:
1) Turn the engine to TDC compression on cylinder 1.
2) Look from the back side for the mark on the idler. If you find it, put a chalk mark on the front end of the same idler tooth. Use the chalk mark and the mark on the governor gear to install/time the governor.
If you don't find the mark, orient the governor gear so the mark is pointed towards the idler gear and install it.
3) Check the orientation of the ignition drive slot on the governor gear. Viewed from the back, it should be at about the 2/8 o'clock position, 35 degrees above horizontal.
4) If the slot isn't in the right position, pull the governor gear, turn it 1 tooth, reinstall. Repeat this if needed until the slot is in position. (One tooth is 20 degrees.)

international
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby international » Fri May 08, 2015 11:24 am

Ok thanks ! I didnt know if it mattered on this because the governor runs the dizzy but it makes sense that it wouldnt matter as long as rotor is in right location

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bob in CT
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby bob in CT » Fri May 08, 2015 11:42 am

I have hardened seats installed for the exhaust valves in every motor I have apart.

Domed pistons was the correct choice and the way it came from the Factory. I yanked a set of 30 over cast iron flat tops from a motor on a freshly rebuilt tractor that originally had domed pistons. There is nothing wrong with them, probably adds to the flywheel effect and cast iron pistons are noted for extremely long life. I wanted the compression for mowing. You already have the high speed governor in your tractor, so you don't need to do a thing there. From experience, you are going to love all the new-found pop in your motor. Add a Pertronix ignition and you will be extremely happy.

international
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby international » Sat May 23, 2015 12:06 pm

I finally had some time this week to put engine in tractor and fire it up . my problem now and not sure if its a problem is the coolant is weeping out of the head bolts ? The head and block were checked and head was decked . so I ran it for ten min or so and retorqed head and it slowed down but still there . is this something normal or am I missing something

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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby Eugene » Sat May 23, 2015 12:34 pm

Suppose to put some sort of sealant on head bolt threads before installation.
I have an excuse. CRS.

international
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Re: time for rebuild ?

Postby international » Sat May 23, 2015 8:32 pm

Crap! I dipped them in oil before installing ...like any other engine I built ! Now the question , the engine ran for about a hour can I take bolts out and goop them and reinstall and retorque or gonna need new head gasket ?


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