Farmall Cub

1970 IH Cub Lo Boy all of a sudden will not move fwd or reverse.

While ploughing snow my creeper gear selector kept jumping out then ....nothing

Engines purrs like a kitten, all seems good with clutch, all gears will engage but.....no moving ahead or reverse

Had to get my buddies bobcat to tow me back to the barn

Should I be looking at the creeper / drive box ?

What checks can I do without major surgery

Any advice appreciated

Scotty

broken axle on the final drive?

You need to remove the sheet metal from the dash back. Once sheet metal is off, engine off, transmission in gear roll tractor forward and back. Check clutch area for faults.

Next remove the transmission top, check for faults.

I suspect the creeper, contains two roll pins and a half moon key. I think the roll pins are the weakest part in the 154 with creeper's drive train. Good news, if that's the problem, $10- fix - - - not counting for labor.

Thanks for the suggestions guys

it's a great help

i'll check tomorrow

Eugene....the items you speak of in the creeper drive....are they serviceable without removing the entire creeper drive unit from the tractor

thanks again

Scotty

OriginalScott wrote:Eugene....the items you speak of in the creeper drive....are they serviceable without removing the entire creeper drive unit from the tractor?

The roll pins and half moon key is inside the creeper. To make things worse, you have to split the tractor. While you have the tractor split, check the condition of the brake bands and for any leaks. Might as well change the hydraulic fluid and filter. Check and clean up the finals.

I would first check to make sure the bolt in the drive shaft did not break. It is actually the weakest part in the whole drive train. Take the transmission cover off and with the tractor not running, place it in gear then try to roll the tractor. You will be able to see if the coupler is spinning on the drive shaft. It's the most common problem with the number series drive train. I would next look at the creeper drive. If it was jumping in and out of gear, then it may have come apart as Eugene mentioned.

Thanks for the info tractorman......I'll check that pin first !

Well I crawled under the tractor this evening and waddaya know.....the pin that couples the the clutch pressure plate and the creeper drive shaft was missing.

Having difficulty lining up the holes to put another pin in.

When I turn the clutch assy by hand the shaft coming out of the creeper drive turns at the same time ?

Any tips or should I remove the main shaft from the engine to install the pin ?

Thanks for any input

Scotty

Moving again

The rear pin had jumped ship so I replaced it and we are back in business and plowing snow


Thanks for all of the advice

Cheers

Scotty

I would also like to vote this as the most common problem as the exact same thing happened to me this fall. Nomad

Same situation in that tractor won't move. My son was the operator and he was mowing in tall grass. I had suspected he burned the clutch but I removed the driveshaft cover and clutch is engaging fine and it smells fresh as a daisy. I'm not really clear where the pin you all are referring to is located, but with tractor off and foot on the clutch, I can freely spin the trans input flange (arrow in the pic). Is the pin what locates the flange to the input shaft?

Shifter seems to be actuating forks normally too. Also, my tractor has a knob (circle in pic) that moves in and out under the seat adj. lever that would seem to disengage the drive completely - like what is happening. But pushing it in would reengage the driveline.

Any help is appreciated.

steveu812 wrote: my tractor has a knob (circle in pic) that moves in and out under the seat adj. lever that would seem to disengage the drive completely - like what is happening. But pushing it in would reengage the driveline.

The knob is the shift lever for the creeper. Moving the knob in or out should shift the creeper into high or low gear. No neutral.

The creeper repair is usually inexpensive, less than $10- for parts. That's the good news. Bad news is you need to split the tractor. Because it's a PIA to split, suggest inspecting everything and replacing if in doubt.

Are there any good 'splitting' instructions handy? I have all the tools I would need, floor jack, chain hoist, impact etc. but just a general idea to get started.

steveu812 wrote:Are there any good 'splitting' instructions handy?

Service manual. Basically you are just removing the sheet metal, uncoupling everything and sliding the rear end back. You need jack stands, a hydraulic floor jack, plus the hand tools. Also a pan to catch the hydraulic fluid.

This is one of the tasks that just takes time. Neighbor who sold me the 154 asked about the repairs. I told him the cost of the parts. Then said that if I were a commercial shop it would have cost around $1200.

A little more digging and I found the CleanComputes pages so I think I'm good to go. Whoa...$1200. I was going to pay my son to dig into this - I can't show him that number!!

Thanks!!