Farmall Cub

hey guys I'm new to this forum, but I'm on various other cub cadet forums. I recently bought a 1978 184. I'm having to rering,new bearings,and resealing the whole engine. The has been high pressured wash,honed,and the rough casting cleaned up. I have a question thought, when I was retapping the head bolts I notice they go through to the water pockets. Do I need to put sealant on the bolt's treads? Thanks Logan

Yes,you should put sealant on them.

Like teflone tape?

I use gasket cement, like Permatex #2 non hardening.

I used permatex High Tack sealant on my 184. Works well.
Make sure you clean the bolts too so the sealant can seal well to the bolts.

And welcome to the forum, from Arkansas. Sounds like you got quite a project going on.

Thanks guys I have a bunch a of questions like the end gap and how to set the timing ?

Static Timing:
Set points gap to .020" using a feeler guage.
#1 Cylinder is closest to radiator.
Set #1 Cylinder at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (valves closed for cylinder #1) You can use pointer on crank pulley to align with the 0 degree timing mark.
Set distributor so that the rotor points to the distributor cap tower for #1 cylinder. (Should be near the 1:00 position)

Connect a timing light to the #1 cylinder. (It's best if your timing light also displays RPM's)
Start tractor. At an idle, the timing pointer should point to the 0 degree timing mark. Don't bother adjusting at this point.
Increase the rpm's to 1600. (no load) Notice this is not full throttle.
Loosen the distributor and adjust so that the 16 degree mark is at the pointer.
Reduce the RPM's back to an idle while watching the timing marks. The 0 degree mark should end up very near the pointer.
If the 16 degree mark is still at the pointer, (it did not change) then there is an issue with the timing advance in the distributor.

Verify that the tractor will reach its full specified RPM.
184 & 185 Tractor = 600 rpm idle, 2510 no load (Hi Idle), 2300 with a load
154 Tractor = 475 rpm idle, 2420 no load (Hi Idle), 2200 with a load

Thanks my problem is thought with the camshaft gear and crankshaft gear. It has the dots but my question is if its right because the timing was 180 deg. off before I first tore apart the engine and tried gettin it running.

outdoors4evr hit the nail on the head. unless the cam or has been installed incorrectly, his directions are perfect.

Since you will have the head off to "freshen up" the rings, you can have a good look at the valves and correct any timing issues.
With the #1 cylinder having both valves closed and at TDC, look at the distributor rotor. It should be pointing at 1:00. If both valves closed is not at TDC, then the cam is mistimed. If the distributor it is pointing anywhere other than 1:00 then the distributor was mistimed.
Not that the engine can't run that way, but that just isn't how the factory assembled the tractor. To make it work, they would have put the #1 plug wire in the 7:00 tower of the distributor.

To correct this, remove the front cover and retime the governor (so the dots line up) and then remove the distributor and reassemble with rotor pointing to 1:00.
Note: I don't think the governor timing mark changes anything except the distributor.

thanks i got it and slowly putting it back together