Mild performance idea

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Re: Mild performance idea

Postby FrankenCub » Sat Dec 07, 2013 12:35 pm

wrink3 wrote:The engine is probably easier to upgrade than the clutch. What are your plans for it?


I won't be using it like a full sized tractor so i think the clutch will hold up fine for what I want. I plan on getting a 3pt mower, flail or brush hog style. I am building a loader for it now but waiting for spring to resume work on that. Not to be used for "real" loader work but to make life easier, I have 3 ruptured disks in my back so the loader will pick up and move things I can not. Pulling small logs from the woods for fire wood and pulling a trailer. Pretty much what I'm asking from the 154 is well within it's strengths.
I am mostly looking for sustaining what power it does have while pulling a small wagon up a grade or mowing without having to drop gears. After using it some more as an ATV to get to my hunting area realized it may be a little low on power from what it should be, but I may be overestimating what it should have. I will be checking the compression and running a vacuum test this week, hopefully.
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Re: Mild performance idea

Postby FrankenCub » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:06 pm

gusbratz wrote:I have heard if you cut a groove from the spark plug hole to the edge of the cyl on a flathead that it channels the flame front to the perimeter of the cylinder to scour the ring groove. This tumbles the mixture and supposedly increases fuel efficiency and power. I have also heard it causes a lot of cracked heads which is why nobody does it. I have always wished I had a spare head lying around to try it with.
I feel like the cub is great on fuel economy and generally I run out of traction before I run out of power (with the exception of the mower deck). If it is not powerful enough I usually need more tractor anyway and get a bigger machine.


That doesn't sound like anything I'd try either, used heads are cheap enough though. I would be more concerned about the groove creating hot spots where carbon would build up and cause detonation. You don't always hear detonation and it could cause piston problems, would be better off making sure there are no sharp edges on the combustion surface. Keeping the mixture swirling is definitely a plus though. A long time race engine builder told me a mistake many people make when doing any port work is to polish the intake ports. You wouldn't think such little, insignificant, work would be of much benefit. But from what I've seen from the guys pulling Cub Cadets with the little Kohler singles, the correct port work really wakes them up.

As for a bigger machine, I wish I had one lol. My 154 was the biggest I could afford.
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Re: Mild performance idea

Postby FrankenCub » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:16 pm

Bob McCarty wrote:If the cost isn't an issue and you won't be terribly disappointed if you don't get the results you hope for, then I'd say go for it. After all, there is a Cubota, a Cub with a V-6, a tricycle Cub, a rat Cub, and others out there.

Bob


The Cubota would be sweet, I'm kinda partial to diesels anyhow. Spent my life driving Mack dump trucks and a sweet Peterbuilt wrecker, and also helping my hay farmer neighbor using his Ford 7600's. I just like diesels lol. Might not be a bad idea if a good engine could be found for a reasonable price.
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Re: Mild performance idea

Postby Clark Thompson » Tue Dec 31, 2013 11:48 pm

I have done a couple c-60 engines to increase some power and torque. first thing I would figure out if the head has been shaved in the past. If it hasnt then I would shave .040 off the head. second dependingon what year it is it may have the cam to run at a higher RPM, if not I would send your cam out to dennys carb shop to have a pulling grind done. Third thing is to port all the ports. Typacally all cub intake and exhaust ports dont match up so well In my experionce they sometimes are 24% off on the ports lining up. Now as far as porting it can be done but with care.there is a lot of metal that can be removed in the ports to increase port size . just dont get too carried away or your water jackets will be a issue. a good valve job is a must. new valve seats may need to be installed also. The next item is to concern with the pistons. If it a early loboy it probabley has cast iron pistons . I went with .040 flat top pistons . I then sent the rings out to a place in arizona that turns the second compression ring into a total seal ring.with these rings you can expect 165 lbs of compression. then i got a petronics ignition and a zeneth carburator. no I also did away the belt driven fan and went with the electric fan. it was easy to do . summit racing had everything i needed. also I would use the replacment intake manifold even if your original is good. reason being you can bore the ports to aid in the engine breathing easier. after i had bult the engine had set the engine to run at 3800 at full throttle. Installed it in a tractor but had no real way to dyno it. so I took my 57 loboy with doubble weights and a loader onto the hard road. shut it down and locked the brakes. connected the souped up cub to the loboy..put it in first gear and at 1500 rpm i started to drag the other tractor. as it went i increased it to full throttle It sounded like a farmall H. front tires we up and the tractor pulled the dead weight to about a hundred feet. I sispect my loboy weight is around 3800 lbs. I dont think a turbo will do much for the c -60 except bend rods or possibly brake the crank.
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Re: Mild performance idea

Postby BigBill » Wed Jan 01, 2014 8:36 pm

Another trick is a super A distributor and governor but I'm not sure if it all fits I read it somewhere. The ports do need to be matched for sure. The zenith carb cfm can be made larger by changing the sleeve to a larger one. I would put an adjustable metering in the main jet. I usually cut the head just .010" to make sure it's dead true flat. You can also open up the chambers around the exhaust valves so the exhaust exits faster and smoother flow wise. The cam can be adjusted degree wise so it can open up the intake valve sooner. The exhaust valves can be degrees so the exhaust valve stays open a tad longer. The cam can be degrees in by offset keys. The pressure plate force on the clutch disc can be increased by stronger springs in the pressure plate. The only weak link is the pins on the drive shaft and flywheel.

For the time and expense plus the possible chances of failures and breakage I would just purchase a farmall super A.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: Mild performance idea

Postby Eugene » Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:22 pm

BigBill wrote:For the time and expense plus the possible chances of failures and breakage I would just purchase a farmall super A.
Ditto. Buy a bigger tractor. Cheaper. more torque, more weight, more features.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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