IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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I am a new 154 Cub Lo-Boy owner, I think a 1974. When I bought it, it needed one new front tire and the other wasn't the best ....20x8.00x10...so I just bought 2 new ones. When I took the old tires off, I noticed that the hubs would move back and forth on the spindle about 1/16". The bolt that held the big washer on to the end of the spindle was as tight as it could get. I couldn't see how the play could be tightened up !!!! Is this normal to have that much play ? The tire is very, very close to the upright part closest to the wheel. With the right sideways load, I think the tire could maybe rub on the upright part. Just going down the road, it is close, but not rubbing. Can any one enlighten me on how that all works??? I couldn't find any info in the original manual that I got with the tractor.Thanks !!!!!
Welcome to the forum from Arkansas.
Lots of guys on here know the numbered series of lo-Boys, but I'm not one of them. Just thinking that 1/16 of an inch is not that much, but also most wheel bearing nuts are not tighten to the max on the bearings. Somebody that know will answer.
Spend some quality time on the forum getting to know the information contained on here. Several folks have built a wonderfully fact filled web of information and the share information freely.
Guiena, 1951 Farmall Cub; Jumping Willy, 1949 Farmall Cub.
My 184 has some movement side to side with the front tires.
The tires don't get very close to the axle though. This may depend on what tires and rims you have. I have turf tires.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH Model 15 Tiller
You can play with different thickness washers to take up some of that slop, but there's only so much you can do. Really, 1/16" is not bad. Also, make sure to pack the wheel bearings good while you have the wheels off. Some of that 1/16" will go away with greasing everything.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
Check the condition of the hub, the lip where the bearing inserts. And the bearings. The hub shouldn't be sliding back and forth on the spindle.
New bearings. Part number: B1S B6534 manufactured by LUTCO, available from auto parts store. Cub Cadet part number: 941-3002
I have an excuse. CRS.
You are the only one so far that has said that the hubs should not move in and out on the spindle. I don't think so either, however, I don't understand how it was meant to work. Let's use a car hub or trailer hub for example......they both have a nut that is turned in to get the right amount of play and then you stick a cotter pin in to keep it there. But with the Cub Lo-boy spindle, you just have a bolt that is threaded into the end of the spindle.....how is there any adjustment there ????????? The bolt stops when it runs out of threads and that's it !!!!!! My bolts stop and are as tight as possible and I still get a little in and out movement of the hub on the spindle !!!!! I really want to understand how it is meant to work !!!!!!
Meant to work as you described for trailers or cars. The washer is meant to snug up the bearing in the race so that they can not - do not rotate on the spindle.
Drive the bearings out of the hub. Clean up and inspect.
If bearings still good - hard ware store - large washer section. Select a washer to match the bearing diameter. You may have to drill out the washer to match your spindle diameter.
I replace the bearings on my 154. That took care of the problem.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I thought I would give everybody who replied to my post an update. Today I made aluminum washers and fixed the movement of my hubs. I used aluminum that was .024 thick , used a multi-spur bit for the inside 1" hole and a hole saw to cut the 1 1/2" outside diameter. I put them over the spindle at the rear of the hub. This took all the slop and in-out movement of the hubs away and the wheels still spun freely with the spindle bolt tightened firmly. Since the washers are aluminum and not steel, I'm not sure if they will wear out quickly or not, but it's better than it was yesterday !!!!! I used to be a high school wood and metal shop teacher. If I was still working, I could have used the surface grinder and surfaced a steel washer down to .024 thick. I think I like being retired better than having the use of all the machinery. If the aluminum ones wear out in 6 months, at least I know how to quickly make 2 more !!!!!!! Thanks for all the responses !!!!
Hello and welcome to the forum. It sounds like you resolved your issue for the time being and hopefully for good. I never cared for the ball bearing set up on the numbered Cubs or Cub Cadets. Once they "loosen up" as you described the bearings tend to wear out rather quickly. I would check the condition of the bearings and the hubs as Eugene suggested. If the bearings are good (not likely) I would then make sure the bearings fit snugly in the hubs. If the hubs are worn the bearings won't stay seated the assembly is destined to fail. Once the hubs are worn the tendency is for the bearings to wear more and more inside the hub and the whole thing begins to wobble and ruin the hub. I've seen it happen to a number of tractors with the ball bearing set up. These are not the same setup as a cup and cone assembly and ball bearings like these don't do well with pre-load.
It sounds like the hubs may already be worn.
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