IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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No. There is one bolt that can be tightened to adjust the amount of effort needed to turn the steering wheel, but this RARELY needs to be adjusted.
More than likely, the combination of the drag link ends and tie rod ends being worn out is your problem. They're all easy to replace. Also, check to see how much play is in the center pivot pin that holds the front axle on. This also wears but shows up as sloppy steering. Then check the front wheel bearings. Again, worn wheel bearings show up as sloppy steering.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
Thanks What Bolt is adjustable
I do have all the above bad parts , tierods , Pivot pin alittle But the steering Box needs adjusted bad.
after I get back to work I can redo all the bad steereing. The wheel moves 4-5 inches before responce
then the rest of the parts have their play.
The adjusting screw fastened to the cover plate tends to wear a bit. Turning the adjusting screw in 90 degrees (1/4 turn) may take some of the slack out of the steering.
The steering sector appears to be quite similar to the Ross used on Cub Cadets. A kit is available for replacing the ball bearings and races. Common problem with the Ross steering sector is that the plastic retainers for the ball bearings break after years of use. Next common problem is wear on adjusting screw.
The bearing kit is relatively inexpensive. A new adjusting screw, more expensive.
Any way, if the slop is centered in the steering sector, a complete rebuild is normally necessary. The rebuild is not difficult. The difficulty is removing the sector from the tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.
If you pull on the steering wheel up and down (in/out) and it has movement, then the upper and lower bearings are bad, or the end cap needs tightening up.
If you turn the wheel and it takes several degrees of wheel movement before the pitman moves, then the screw adjustment on the side of the gearbox needs to be turned in to force the arm closer to the worm shaft. Turn it in just enough to take out the play without causing binding.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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