Sat Jun 01, 2013 7:52 pm
Hello guys. Been quite a while since I've been here. I recently bought a 154, from what I gather from the serial numbers I think it's a '69. Was looking for a 184 but here in NY they seem very few and far between, the few I did find were better than $3500, more than I could afford. Anywho, I figure the 154 was a damn good buy at $1200, even the other 154's I've seen were better than $3000. Ran good and has the creeper, 3pt hitch, snow thrower, and a wasted deck that I'll use as a template to make a rough brush hog lol. It ran pretty good but the governor seemed to be slow to react. Found the adjustment way off and the governor rod hitting the carb where it attaches so I tuned that up too. Works great now. Still seems to not like 3rd gear, low on power, but it's also been sitting for 3 years so I'm gonna run either some Sea Foam or MMO through it. Does look a little rich burning too, no oil smoke though. Will be looking for a loader for it soon, I hope. Seen that Mott offered a Flail Mower for these too, that would be nice.
Have a clutch question to add, can the whole clutch/drive shaft set-up from a 184 be transplanted to the 154 ? Not that it has any problems, I've just read that the 184 set-up was much better.
Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:46 am
I think you will spend more on converting this to a 184 than rebuilding your current 3-4 times.
These ran for 30 years on the first clutch setup. The design can't be that "bad" when properly adjusted.
Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:05 am
I have to agree, that I don't think it's nearly as easy as one would think to switch the 154 over to a 184 PTO clutch.
For one thing, you don't have the electrical connections in the wiring harness of a 154 to wire up the electric PTO clutch, switch, safety, etc. That is actually an interlocked mechanism on the 184, so that the engine cannot be started if the PTO clutch is on/engaged. Having said that, yes, you can wire around this, but speaking from experience, the electric PTO clutch and wiring is a bit interesting.
Just rebuild your original PTO clutch and be happy with it. If it's done right, it should last 20 or 30 years, easily.
Mon Jun 03, 2013 8:03 pm
I haven't got to adjusting the PTO clutch yet, next few days maybe. I was curious about the driveline clutch though. I've seen many posts on the LoBoy Yahoo group where they said they weren't very strong and would end up with issues if tried pulling too much with them. This one seems in good shape so far, maybe I'm just concerned about something that isn't entirely true ? I know it's no regular farm tractor but I also couldn't afford one of the bigger numbered IH's.
On another note, the more I run it the better things are looking. It's getting more accepting of third gear and the governor is getting smoother. I'll add some more MMO to it this week seems I forgot to get it this morning. Drained and replaced the tranny fluid today, was real milky and water run from the cylinder lines when I disconnected them. I'm slowly getting the 3pt to function somewhat, still gotta be a lot of air in the system and it seems to leak down quickly when it does finally raise with my help.
Tue Jun 04, 2013 8:00 am
The 184 and 154 used the same clutch plate. Yes, the 184 is a more conventional design and probably easier to adjust, but I wouldn't expect to be pulling stumps with it.
You are on the right path by changing fluids and running it to figure out what will need service. These machines ran for many years and with some care can run for many more.
Just don't use the clutch as a brake (wearing out the clutch pucks) and enjoy the mowing.
Use a good penetrating oil on the connections between the governor and the carb and your governor will become more responsive.
The hydraulic cylinders should not leak down. Hopefully it is just air in the system that will eventually bleed out. You might want to disconnect and drain some of the fluid out of the mid-mounted cylinder as this is the lowest point in the hydraulic system (where the water gathers). It will freeze there first in the winter causing the cylinder not to function. Hytran is the recommended fluid as it can absorb some of the water. If you store your tractor outside, then keep a bucket over the shifter.
Don't forget to also change the fluid in the final drives & creeper (if installed). This fluid is separate from the transmission.
Tue Jun 04, 2013 3:15 pm
Maybe I won't put any thought into the driveline then, if I brake it I might better get something bigger lol. I'm gonna use it pretty hard, but carefully, I'll leave the stump pulling to the 434. Been using a lot of penetrating fluid all over whether it needs it or not, Kroil is my best friend here, everything I own is old. The governor shafts are moving freely now but I may take it off at some poing to go through it to make sure everything inside is clean and smooth working.
One thing I did notice on the carb is the low idle adjust screw comes nowhere near the stop, even when screwed all the way in. When pulling the throttle all the way back it will just shut down with no way to adjust the stop. Not sure if someone replaced the throttle shaft with the wrong one but it sure looks like it.
The mid-cylinder line did drain about a cup of water then contaminated oil but I think the cylinder is shot, it will move by hand in limited travel so I'm sure the shaft is rusted. They are cheap so it's no big deal and I have no immediate plans to use that one for a while anyhow. I still need to fabricate a new shell for the IH deck. I'm mostely concerned with the 3pt. I have a Haban sickle bar from a Bolens I can remount as 3pt and drive from the PTO.
I'm also thinking the pump may possible worn out because of low fluid level, it was really low when I brought it home. The creeper was rebuilt just befor I bought it so there's already clean fluid there and surprisingly the fluids in the finals looked and smelled good.
A lifelong friend of mine owns a recycling yard and they move a lot of tractors though there so I'm gonna print up a couple pictures of the the F/Cubs and Numbered Cubs, he'll give me a call as they get any in so I can go shopping
Wed Jun 05, 2013 6:37 am
Might want to contact HamiltonBobsCubs.com for the deck. He's a forum sponsor and probably has a deck with less rust damage.
Wed Jun 05, 2013 6:39 am
I think you're correct on the carb throttle shaft. I assume this is an IH carb? If so, someone has rebuilt it using a Tisco (TSC) kit. The throttle shafts in those kits do not fit properly and you end up with the situation that you have. You can correct the issue with a kit from Steiner or IH. You might see if a forum member has a spare shaft laying around.
Wed Jun 05, 2013 1:08 pm
FrankenCub wrote: I've seen many posts on the LoBoy Yahoo group where they said they weren't very strong and would end up with issues if tried pulling too much with them. This one seems in good shape so far, maybe I'm just concerned about something that isn't entirely true ?
I push with a loader, spin the wheels, plow, pull stumps, and so on, with all of my 4 numbered series. No issues with the clutch breaking. The only thing I would not do is jerk the clutch otherwise I would disagree with the Yahoo group on this issue.
Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:23 pm
outdoors4evr wrote:Might want to contact HamiltonBobsCubs.com for the deck. He's a forum sponsor and probably has a deck with less rust damage.
I might do that if a shell is affordable by time it's shipped to NY. I have his website bookmarked and look through his ebay sales too. I've already got a small list of things I need to buy from him
Gary Dotson wrote:I think you're correct on the carb throttle shaft. I assume this is an IH carb? If so, someone has rebuilt it using a Tisco (TSC) kit. The throttle shafts in those kits do not fit properly and you end up with the situation that you have. You can correct the issue with a kit from Steiner or IH. You might see if a forum member has a spare shaft laying around.
The bore is a little loose too so if they rebuilt it with a Tisco kit they never bothered to bush the bore. It is an IH carb so if the other carb kits don't have all I'm looking for I will place a wanted add for the shaft and make a bushing to fix the rest. These C60's seem much more forgiving of a loose throttle bore than the Kohlers on the Cub Cadets lol.
Landreo wrote:I push with a loader, spin the wheels, plow, pull stumps, and so on, with all of my 4 numbered series. No issues with the clutch breaking. The only thing I would not do is jerk the clutch otherwise I would disagree with the Yahoo group on this issue.
That's really good to hear ! The biggest reason I bought this is to get to some of the logs that we can't get to with the IH 434 because of it's width. All our fire wood every year is just cleaning up storm damage in the woods, we try to do it without cutting new roads for the most part but sometimes we had no choice. No sence letting a perfectly good tree lay on the ground to rot away. I'm eventually going to need ags as this 154 has the fat turf tires but I do have chains for it and they are loaded. They'll work for now, till I get the funds built back up to but new tires and rims. Also hoping to find a loader for it. I'd rather find a 1050a but there are a couple locally that may adapt fairely easily.
Well, another hour or so trying to bleed the hydraulic system today, still no dice. It will lift with help and slowly build pressure to hold up but still spongy when I push on the 3pt. Gonna try to find a guage so I can see what pressure the pump is putting out. Hopefully I can get to the Case/IH dealer this weekend and pick up the o-rings to rebuild the control valve and safety valve, they may be causing problems.
Thu Jun 06, 2013 7:40 am
FrankenCub wrote:Well, another hour or so trying to bleed the hydraulic system today, still no dice. It will lift with help and slowly build pressure to hold up but still spongy when I push on the 3pt.
Have you locked out either the mower deck or 3-point when operating the hydraulics?
Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:04 pm
If the hydraulic cylinders are just Y'd together then it should still perform. Both cylinders would have to be fully extended, but should be stout (not spongy).
Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:32 pm
The center cylinder isn't locked out, but is in a stuck position, probably from the inside being rusted and bound. I have moved it by hand to extend it all the way but it won't collaps fully so I've left it where it has stopped. Should I extend it all the way then cycle the system more ?
Thu Jun 06, 2013 2:22 pm
FrankenCub wrote:The center cylinder isn't locked out, but is in a stuck position, probably from the inside being rusted and bound. I have moved it by hand to extend it all the way but it won't collaps fully so I've left it where it has stopped. Should I extend it all the way then cycle the system more ?
You need weight on one way cylinders to close them. You may have to put the deck back on to close the center cylinder. Then lock the center cylinder in the closed position.
If the hydraulic system is raising the 3-point - then there is little or no air in the hydraulic system.
And one more thought. Do you have a diverter valve on the panel below the steering wheel? If so make sure the valve is completely open or closed.
Thu Jun 06, 2013 2:35 pm
No, I don't have a diverter valve. I am able to close the center cylinder by hand most of the way but it will not fully close, that's why I'm thinking the ram is rusted inside at that point where it stops. It's actually stuck pretty hard and I would have to put a good long section of pipe on it to release it.
The system won't raise the 3pt on it's own yet, but once I get it up by helping it up with my hand it will stay up, although spongy. If I hold the raise valve back while pushing down on the 3pt several times it does get more firm but certainly not hard as it should be.
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