IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:20 pm
I have a 154 early 70's I believe,serial tag is worn so not sure,use it to cut 4 acres,love it!...Problem is like most a little grinding on the gears,well I went to move it out out of the garage, went in reverse fine,but when I put it in gear and let out the clutch,it makes a grinding sound and will not move at all,removed cover and everything looks ok.Where to start? maybe drive shaft splines,shift fork.any suggestions on a starting point,Thanks
Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:55 pm
It's not suppose to grind gears.
Question. Tractor can not be moved at all? Both rear tires will not move? Guessing transmission is stuck in two gears.
Grinding. Unknown. Clutch problem?
Obtain books suggested in previous post.
Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:59 am
Probably broke the shear pin on the driveshaft.
Could have broke from wear or due to another issue (like being stuck in two gears at once)
Also need to solve the gear grinding issue. The pucks on the clutch brake probably need adjustment or replaced.
Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:05 pm
@Eugene,when I shift the tractor, it moves a little bit,a small jump.I was messing with it last night and I noticed that if I turn the clutch by hand with it in gear,it moves the tires a bit but then It will turn freely on the drive shaft,is the sheer pin at the motor end or the trans end?thanks for the help and will order suggested manul
Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:52 pm
Is the sheer pin at the motor end or the trans end?
A shear pin is located on the hub on the back side of the pressure plate. Look behind the pressure plate, below the clutch brake assembly and in front of the transmission or creeper gear if installed on your tractor.
Confession. I purchased a 154 this spring for a winter project. It is the first 154 I have done any extensive work on. I'm working from the rear to the front. Check the drive shaft at the rear of the engine. There may be a shear pin there. But I really don't know.
Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:37 pm
I have the first two manuals Rudi listed. The I&T manual is pretty useless. One problem I'm finding on the 154 I'm working on is that the manuals do not cover or include some items/issues.
As I stated earlier, I'm working on my 154 from back to front. Working under the tractor I'm finding zerks that haven't greased in 50 years. I'm finding grease zerks not listed in the lubrication chart. Locations where I think should have zerks and no apparent hole from a previous zerk. I have hydraulics that are not depicted in the manuals.
Any way you need the first two manuals Rudi listed as well as the Operator's manual.
Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:22 pm
Here is an ORIGINAL OEM IH FARMALL CUB 154 LoBoy Tractor Operator Manual
- by far the best manuals to buy if you can. Binder Binder
has the very best reprint manuals though and these two should be bought from Binder if you cannot find originals
Cub 154 Lo-Boy
Built 1964-1975 with the C-60 engine. Serial numbers 7505-36676.
GSS-1408 International Cub 154, 185, 184 Tractor Service manual, (engine and chassis). $36.95
TC-131 International Cub 154, 185, 184 Tractor Parts Catalog. 115 pages $24.95
I agree wholeheartedly with Eugene on the I&T Manuals. They are pretty useless compared to a Blue Ribbon Service Manual, but when lacking a BRSM then the I&T works...
Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:40 pm
salemlowboy wrote:@Eugene,when I shift the tractor, it moves a little bit,a small jump.I was messing with it last night and I noticed that if I turn the clutch by hand with it in gear,it moves the tires a bit but then It will turn freely on the drive shaft,is the sheer pin at the motor end or the trans end?thanks for the help and will order suggested manul
Turn the clutch and the wheels move tells me the rear bolt is intact. No really a shear pin but is a 5/16 inch allen head bolt.
Early model 154 slightly different but I believe 1970 is one of the later drive trains. Engine flywheel to 4 bolt metal coupler, that has a 5/16 inch bolt that connects the 4 bolt coupler to the driveshaft. Not a shear bolt but a hardened allen head bolt. Driveshaft to the clutch disc connected to the clutch disc by splines on the drive shaft. Pressure plate to diven disc and then connected to the input shaft by a hub on the driven disc and a 5/16 inch bolt. Again, not a shear bolt. Look at what turns will tell you where the problem is. Pull the tunnel cover so you can see the clutch and driveshaft. Start the engine, put in gear, brake on, let out the clutch. If the engine runs but the drive shaft does not turn then the front coupler is slipping, likely the 5/16 bolt has broken or came out.
If the driveshaft turns but the pressure plate does not then look at the clutch disc or the splines are gone from the rear of the driveshaft. driven disc and clutch turns but not the wheels then the driven disc hub is gone, likely a lost or broken bolt.
Neither of the two 5/16 bolts is a shear pin but are hardened bolts, their function is not as a safety shear pin. Replace them with at least grade 5 bolts.
Fri Dec 07, 2012 4:56 pm
Landreo wrote:Neither of the two 5/16 bolts is a shear pin but are hardened bolts, their function is not as a safety shear pin. Replace them with at least grade 5 bolts.
Suppose to be hardened bolts. About 45 minutes ago I stopped by the local implement dealership and picked up a grade 8 smooth shanked bolt to replace the existing bolt holding the pressure plate to creeper gear input shaft. The bolt I removed was full threaded, badly beat up, unknown grade, and obviously not original or up to standard.
Back to the problem. Landreo's diagnosis description is very good.
Sat Dec 08, 2012 12:52 pm
Thanks for all the help guys,I have some reading material now and see how it all works.After messing with it this morning,the drive shaft ,clutch turns,I'm thinking it may be the bolt on the input shaft.i will have to wait for better weather to check that out since tractor is stuck in the driveway and not able to push it back into garage,uphill grade.
Sat Dec 08, 2012 4:20 pm
salemlowboy wrote:Thanks for all the help guys,I have some reading material now and see how it all works.After messing with it this morning,the drive shaft ,clutch turns,I'm thinking it may be the bolt on the input shaft.i will have to wait for better weather to check that out since tractor is stuck in the driveway and not able to push it back into garage,uphill grade.
By clutch, I assume you mean the pressure plate.
If we are talking about the same pin/bolt, unbolt the clutch brake, 2 each 3/4" wrenches and two bolts. Fold the clutch brake towards the front of the tractor. This will give you access to the pin/bolt on the back side of the pressure plate.
I just finished making a pin/bolt for coupling the pressure plate to the creeper gear input shaft. 5/16" diameter grade 8 bolt. Just under 1 1/4" smooth shank. Total length is 1 3/4". I purchased a longer smooth shanked bolt, 54 cents. Cut the threads a bit longer to get to the 1 1/4" smooth shank. Cut to desired total length with hack saw.
Edit: I should state that I do not have any of the sheet metal on my tractor.
Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:16 am
Now you mentioned a creeper.
You also might have the creeper "in between" gears. This can also give you the feeling that something's broken.
Let out the clutch and no motion occurs. Took me a few
minutes to figure that out.
Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:38 pm
outdoors4evr wrote:Now you mentioned a creeper. You also might have the creeper "in between" gears.
Salemlowboy didn't mention a creeper gear, I did because I am currently working on the clutch of my 154 which has a creeper gear.
Just my opinion, I think there is a possibility that the tractor has several problems; clutch brake, perhaps stuck in two gears, and perhaps sheared splines on the drive shaft or clutch disk.
Thu Dec 13, 2012 4:55 am
Since they have such sloppy driveshaft splines, I would check that end first. you will probably leave all the sheet metal off once you ever get it off!---My 185 dont have anything on it cept the hood and I can see right down into the sloppy clutch setup thats used on this model.---now getting the clutch out is another story.---looks time consuming and mine will become a hydro-drive as soon as I find one more part. thanks; sonny
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