Farmall Cub

Thanks for asking, but unfortunately, no. Trying to get my shop finished, and have been dealing with ceiling drywall, paint and hanging lights. Too many things breaking down at the same time.
Thought about just moving the mower to the other tractor for the rest of the season, but THAT would mean taking the FEL off of it. Probably as much work as just fixing the clutch arm on the first one.

The fork had come off the throwout bearing. Got everything dislodged, and reassembled after adjusting the gap on the fork's arms.

Put the fork back in like it came out, but I think that it's backwards!! The parts diagram shows the relieved side toward the pressure plate, versus the uniformly flat side as the PO had it installed. Have to depress the pedal all the way down to release the disc, so somethin's not right. Makes too much noise to suit me.

Any ideas??

There is a specific direction the fork must be put in. If you put it in backwards, the throwout bearing will not clear the fingers.
I think the shape of your fork may be the issue. The fork was made out of rectangle stock. Time and wear causes the inside front of the fork to round off and eventually, the throwout bearing can rotate and become non functional.

My throwout bearing carrier was also worn. I replaced the throwout carrier and I had to weld and grind the fork back into shape.

The fork has a nice square edge on both sides of both fingers. One side of the fork legs is recessed in about half its length and the other side is straight its full length. The parts diagram shows the recessed side toward the clutch fingers. Just need to confirm that. Thanks!

My apologies for a late response and thank you.

Fork was spread as advised. Adjusted with the BFH, shimmed the bottom pivot so it doesn't slid on the pin laterally so much, and it has been functioning good.

BUT, I still can't get pedal adjusted right. It has to bottom out to barely release clutch, with a 1/2" free play at the top of the pedal travel. PO replaced clutch (???) and arms aren't loose or worn, so I'm stumped.

fordyford wrote:I still can't get pedal adjusted right. It has to bottom out to barely release clutch, with a 1/2" free play at the top of the pedal travel.

You need to set up the clutch using the specifications listed in the Service Manual.

Not sure about your reference for the 1/2" free play in pedal travel, But I couldn't find it in the Service Manual.

Specifications say to set the space between the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers to .090". The specification is .010" space between the clutch brake bracket and clutch brake lining.

OK. Spent 1/2 hour today repairing my clutch brake on 154. One thing I noticed is that the pressure plate opens up, releasing the clutch disk, well before the clutch brake takes effect.

Suggest, removing the tunnel cover. Excellent light source in hand. Engine off. Sit in seat. Slowly depress the clutch pedal. About 1/2 pedal depression, the pressure plate should open up a space between it and the clutch dish.

Eugene, his is a 184. The clutch is engine mounted and there is no clutch brake. If this were a Cub, I would suggest checking the pressure plate finger adjustment, but I don't recall whether the fingers are adjustable on a 184, or not. The clutch on the 184 seldom has any problems, so I've never had to pay attention. It might just be a poor quality rebuilt clutch disc.

There aren't any adjustments on the clutch fingers. Also, there isn't a lot of adjustment room when the clutch plate is new. 1/2 turn of the link and the clutch engages too early and 1/2 turn back and the throwout bearing won't totally disengage. Once you use it for a season or two, it will have more adjustment available. It will be a little tight until it wears in. I would suggest readjusting it after 30-50 hours of use.

Gary Dotson wrote:Eugene, his is a 184.

Sorry guys. Some times it just doesn't pay to skip my afternoon nap. Nap skipping contributes to my CRS problem.

fordyford wrote:BUT, I still can't get pedal adjusted right. It has to bottom out to barely release clutch, with a 1/2" free play at the top of the pedal travel.

GSS-1408, page 4-16. "The clutch pedal must maintain a free travel distance of 1-1/8 to 1 1/4."