Farmall Cub

Hello everyone, I just purchased a 1979 184 with all the options, creeper gear, 3 point, woods mower, ect ect, the seller claimed it needed nothing..lol, quite the opposite.....it had a fresh paint job that IMO had so-so prep work, anyway, the problem I have is you have to start the tractor in gear, otherwise it'll grind like no other. I tried adjusting the clutch via the rod to make sure the disc had ample distance of disengagement, and it does as soon as I let the clutch out and try and push it back in the driveshaft never stops spinning. I'm a L-1 mastertech so I'm not an idiot when it comes to troubleshooting.......anyway the clutch fork appears fine as well as the throwout bearing. I next pushed the clutch pedal in and held it with a block of wood and put the tractor in nuetral and tried to manually spin the driveshaft by hand and it felt notchy in spots and felt like it was binding, I feel either the pilot bearing is dry/ binding and or catching on the input/driveshaft causing the driveshaft to continue to spin, thus creating my problem OR ANYONE have any other possibility based on their knowledge of these tractors??........I assume the clutch will have to come out to resolve this issue?? and or replace pilot bushing?? How hard of a job is it to replace the clutch and or pilot bearing in a 184?? Any step by step or quick steps to make this easier???? I've done plenty of clutches in cars.........Anyone have any tips, pics and or insight on this job???

It may just be misadjusted or it may be broken. The notchy feel doesn't sound right, but may not be attributed to the clutch.

Before tearing it down, try to temporarily readjust the clutch fork so that the throwout bearing is in contact with the pressure plate while the clutch is out. Make it fairly tight for the test. Take it for a short drive. See if the driveshaft stops spinning when the clutch is in. If it seems to work better, then adjust it out 1/2 turn at a time until the driveshaft no longer stops when the clutch is in. Then adjust it back in 1 turn and call it good.

I wouldn't tear it down unless you can't get it adjusted to stop the driveshaft. If you do need to, order your parts from HamiltonBobsCubs. He has new driveshafts, clutches, throwout bearings and carriers in addition to used parts.

outdoors4evr wrote:It may just be misadjusted or it may be broken. The notchy feel doesn't sound right, but may not be attributed to the clutch.

Before tearing it down, try to temporarily readjust the clutch fork so that the throwout bearing is in contact with the pressure plate while the clutch is out. Make it fairly tight for the test. Take it for a short drive. See if the driveshaft stops spinning when the clutch is in. If it seems to work better, then adjust it out 1/2 turn at a time until the driveshaft no longer stops when the clutch is in. Then adjust it back in 1 turn and call it good.

I wouldn't tear it down unless you can't get it adjusted to stop the driveshaft. If you do need to, order your parts from HamiltonBobsCubs. He has new driveshafts, clutches, throwout bearings and carriers in addition to used parts.

I have the rod adjusted as far in as possible to the max, so there are no more threads to go and it still spins.

UPDATE: Started taking clutch out tonight, mower deck off, and in the process of depressing the clutch from underneath I noticed the drive shaft when loaded would shift to the side ever so slightly with throw out bearing loaded on pressure plate fingers, long story short, pulled out the driveshaft and presto prob was evident, tip that slides into the pilot bearing is gaulled and heavy groove worn into it, so looks like the pilot took a dump and in turn took out the tip, so complete clutch kit is in line as well as driveshaft and clutch fork is worn....this is what I get for trusting a flea bag flea bay seller who claimed the tractor needed nothing........live and learn

30+ year old tractors will likely need service. Sounds like you are replacing it all. Keep your old parts for a year or two. It'll help you. Clutch fork will likely need to be welded and ground back into shape. New ones are not available and used ones are often in similar condition. Look at the carrier for the throwout too. It's probably just as worn as the clutch fork. (these are available)

I know......it was his presentation of the tractor that was elusive that upsets me, then when I told him of the issues after the fact he denied it and down played them, I know he knew about the clutch issue....fresh antisieze was on the u-joint when I slid it off and to make matters worse the nerb damaged the creeper seal as well when he tried to possibly pry the u-joint assembly off due to the fact it was siezed for him........the mushroom cloud grows