Fri Jul 06, 2012 3:34 pm
This is the 184 that I'am trying to breath new life into .
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Sat Jul 07, 2012 7:22 pm
That is some seriously gorgeous paint!
Even the front of the mower deck is clean!
Make sure you order a free replacement fuel cap.http://www.ihgascap.com
Sat Jul 07, 2012 9:11 pm
outdoors4evr Thank You for the Compliment on the paint job , the guy I bought it from , his son had a body shop and did the paint job . (sheet metal removed , stripped & painted 4 coats + 3 coats of clear coat) I went to a snowmobile grass drag meet and came home with my beautifully restored
184 Low Boy Cub
As a kid I walked behind a 1947 FCUB my dad drove to work a 2 acre garden raising vegetables and enough corn to feed our horse for the winter .
Thanks For Listening , Dale
Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:28 pm
Hi Guys , I got my new crankshaft , bearings & seals in , the engine runs fine .
Need some help bleeding the Hyd. sys. though .
Would you loosen the high pressure line up by the hyd. control valve ?
Also where would the best place to put in hyd. oil ?
How many deg. is the timing advanced ?
Would you connect the timing light to the # 1 spark plug ?
Thanks For Your Help !!!
Happy Cub Dale
Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:33 am
Dale, on the 184, the transmission oil is also used as hydraulic oil. There is a fill plug on the back cover of the differential. It may be hidden by a mower belt guard. You really shouldn't need to bleed the system, just work it up & down several times. If the deck doesn't want to lower, you may need to stand on it, I've seen that on a couple 184's.
When fully advanced, the timing should be 16deg. before TDC. Yes, connect your timing light to #1 plug wire.
Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:10 pm
There are two marks on the crankshaft pulley. 0 degrees (should be near this mark at a low idle) and 16 degrees (should be dead on this mark at wide open throttle no load)
Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:46 pm
I've used the black silicone thats high temperature for engines and it hasn't leaked in 20 years now. I use it in all the corners where the two piece gaskets meet. On the one piece gaskets like on the valve cover gaskets and on the auto tranny pans is use the 3m weather stripping adheasive to hold the gasket inplace.
Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:01 pm
My thoughts on broken cranks, my experience as a engine builder and auto / jeep mechanic. Nothing gets a beating like a jeep or 4x4 truck.
My buddy's 88 jeep wagon had a crank crack at 200,000 miles. (V6). They got a crank kit and swapped it out with the engine in the car. I believe its from excessive oil clearance and age fatuge.
My other buddies 283 chevy engine split the crank near the last main bearing where the thrust bearuing is. The whole engine inside looked great but the crank vee'd a crack so the engine still ran ok but very noisy. The blosck wasn't so lucky it needed line boring to save it so we scrapped it.
Checking the block after having a crank crack if it had spun bearings from being out of balance. I use a starret 24" straight edge with a flashlite on the other side to see if the bearing supports are out of square or not being inline. Cast iron blocks can warp too. We mush check any block that were rebuilding for squareness.
Sun May 12, 2013 7:30 pm
Thanks To All for your Great Advice !!!! IN THE PAST
Know I have new problem .
The engine runs great , no oil leaking until I engage the P T O , then it starts to leak quite a bit , looks like its coming from rear main seal .
I installed new rear main seal & pan gasket , when i installed crank shaft , main & rod bearings . Used ThreeBond gasket maker on pan gasket & to hold rear main seal into block . [ThreeBond # 1184 ]
Has anyone seen this problem , I need some HELP on this one .
Dale Baklund ,
Thank You .
Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:32 am
It's been quite a while without any responses to your question. I'll give it a try.
1) Make sure that sealant is used when you reattach the flywheel. Oil may be leaking through the bolt holes in the crank.
2) Did you have your rear seal done by TST or one of the other forum members? Most people have had poor success with glueing the rear seal into the retainer.
3) Your oil leak may not be coming from the rear seal. It may be coming from around the retainer or where the retainer meets the oil pan. Throroughly clean and Re-seal the oil pan using some RTV.
The PTO should not cause fluid leaks. The PTO drive assembly is bolted onto the flywheel. Worst case is that it pulls upward on the flywheel. I guess if your crankshaft main bearings were extremely worn a gap could be created around the seal, but this is a real long shot. Some disassembly may be required.
Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:37 pm
Thank you outdoors4evr for responding to my question . I THINK your right with your different ideas , My son is using it for mowing his yard , he's just checking the oil often and adding when needed . This winter we'll pull it apart and fix it . I don't think the main bearings are loose because replaced them and plastic gaged them , checked right to spec .
Thank You Again ! Dale Baklund
Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:28 pm
Hello everyone. I am new to this group. I just aquired a 185 loboy (1975 I think) that sat in a barn for 30 years without use. The engine is still loose, but I am getting compression numbers around 95 t0 100 in 2 thru 4 but only 65 in one. With a bit of oil in one it goes up to about 120. I am thinking stuck compression ring, but do not know what normal compression for this engine is. Does anyone know this?. I would appreciate any info. Also the gentlman with the broken crankshaft might do well to have the balance checked on his flywheel.
Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:13 am
Toolman185 wrote:do not know what normal compression for this engine is.
Freshly rebuilt engine, 120 psi.
Prime the oil pump. Get engine running. Add SeaFoam to engine oil and gas. Operate tractor for a while to see what happens.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.