Changed over from a C-3 to a 3260

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Phazer
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Changed over from a C-3 to a 3260

Postby Phazer » Mon Oct 24, 2011 3:10 pm

All I can say is, "WOW". The difference is night & day.


Leaves and grass are thrown much better.
Moderate to heavy grass doesn't drag the engine down "any".
Easy to remove.
Raises & lowers straight up and down.
Looks better.

If anybody has a chance to snag one of these, I'd go for it.

BigBill
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Re: Changed over from a C-3 to a 3260

Postby BigBill » Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:50 pm

My very first int154 purchase came with an IH3260 mower deck. Keep those blades razor sharp and she is awesome. My local lawn mower repair guy calls these mowing machines.

Don't forget to adjust the low limit stop. Thats the threaded bolt with the loc nut on the left side near the foot rest. Bill

BTW; My 3260 was starting to scalp with the center blade. I noticed the center mount plate was hanging down in the rear causing the back half to hang lower so it scalped. I drilled and added a few more securing bolts at the rear edge after removing it and cleaning out all the grass from under it. I did notice there are no securing bolts at the rear half of the plate that holds the center spindle drive. Since i had it apart anyhoo i got the new tapered roller bearings with new seals and rebuilt it. I'm sure it will out last my lifetime for sure.

I hit a high stump a while back in the high grass that was never cut before and i think thats what brought the rear part of the plate down. But its fixed now. I learned my lesson not to take a finnish mower into the unknown territory thats for brush hogs.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

Phazer
5+ Years
5+ Years
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Posts: 134
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 46975

Re: Changed over from a C-3 to a 3260

Postby Phazer » Tue Oct 25, 2011 5:13 am

The PO has 1/2" bolts instead of pins in all the connections which limit the up-travel, (kinda nice actually). I'll have to check that plate. PO said it had new bearings in it not too long ago and after mowing about an hour, got a rumble in the center bearing. Turning it by hand, it will knock/tunk in one paticular spot Needs about an 1" longer belt. The tensioner arm with the spring is up against the bracket and is hitting. It's got one spot where some holes are rusted through but solid. That friggin thing is HEAVY. Skids aren't OEM but close enough for me. Baffles are intact and in good shape, (woo hoo).

See if I can trade my C-3 for a snow blade . . .

BigBill
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Re: Changed over from a C-3 to a 3260

Postby BigBill » Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:33 am

Check the spindle adjustment too. I've seen the loose spindles tighten/snug right up with a turn on the adjustment screw. I just adjust it so there is no play/wobble in the blade. These are tapered roller bearings so they can be adjusted. Bill
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

Phazer
5+ Years
5+ Years
Cub Star
Cub Star
Posts: 134
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 46975

Re: Changed over from a C-3 to a 3260

Postby Phazer » Tue Oct 25, 2011 12:57 pm

I'll check that this weekend. I redid some spindles on an older Cub Cadet so been there/done that but it's been a long time ago.


THANKS ! ! !

Phazer
5+ Years
5+ Years
Cub Star
Cub Star
Posts: 134
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 46975

Re: Changed over from a C-3 to a 3260

Postby Phazer » Sun Oct 30, 2011 2:37 pm

Yeap . . . The center spindle top nut was about 1 turn loose. Took care of the "thunking". Also found the idler was bad and got that changed also. This thing is just OH SO SWEET.

I see what you mean by the support plate. Mines got about a 1/4" of grass under the rear edge. I'll fix that this winter.

The belt is the correct IH number and the rear idlers are/look to be correct but the spring loaded idler on the rear has the arm up against the bracket. The RH one is adjusted up all the way. Looks like I need a belt about 1" maybe 2" longer. Any ideas?


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