154 hydraulics

[JGtools]

I have the 154 almost back together, I had all the hydraulic lines off, and pump off engine during rebuild of engine. I read the manual I have, and it does not say anything about bleeding the system, like on the farmall cubs, you circulate the touch control handle back and forth, with fill cap cap off to get air out. on the 154 , it appears to be a closed system, with a filter. thanks for any tips, Jim I should be ready to test run in a few days.

[BigBill]

The hydraulic system will bleed itself by operating it.

Like most hydraulic systems the oil flows from the oil supply(tank) to the pump, to the control valve which in the netural position(centering position) back to the oil supply(tank) so it should bleed itself on start up. Now with the cylinders to valve bleeding you run the lever up and down a few times so it bleeds the air out of that system too. Its no different than a log splitter(similair). We bleed it manually by operating the lever which moves the oil flow.

Remember to check the hydraulic oil level because it will drop as the system fills up with oil and expells the air.

Most hydraulic oil systems are the same(99.99%) way with oil flow. You can't dead end hydraulics. The pressure line is always flowing keeping the oil cool back to the oil tank.

Even on my 4 way snowplow after a hose or fitting break. It will take a while to bleed the air out but it finally will.

You bring back memories when i would fill a new machine on start up with two to four 55 gallon drums of hydraulic oil depending on the size of the machine.

[JGtools]

Thanks BigBill.

[Rick Prentice]

If it was me, I'd try to get some fluid up to the pump and not just start the thing up and wait for the pump to draw from all the way back by the tranny. That's a long way. Once the pump has fluid, then it'll self bleed, for the most part, unless you have some air in the lift cylinder.

Rick

[b52c130]

Rick is correct - you should Never run a hydraulic pump "dry".

As you are putting it back together; before you put the rubber hose on the suction (larger) line, you should put a funnel onto it and try to pour a quart or so of hydraulic fluid down into the pump - it may take a while for it to work past the pump gears.

In the attached picture - the place that I am talking about is on the right at the two shinny clamps location.

NJDale

[JGtools]

Thanks Guys, I will do just that. funny the manual does not even mention anything of this, common sense to prime and bleed a system, the manuals should cover that subject better. thanks again,Jim

thanks for the picture

[BigBill]

Since its all steel tubing on the suction line you could prime it thru removing the hydraulic oil filter on the suction line that would give it enough of a head start on the suction line.Then I would think by the time it turns over and starts up the fluid is already at the pump. Hydraulics will prime themselves very quickly if the pump is still wet and not bone dry like brand new. But the 154 style of set up is against all the hydraulic training and experiences that i had in the past. The location of the pump is very important and its suppose to be lower than the tank for gravity flow as well as suction on the intake. Some of the machinery that i worked on in the past had a high demand on the hydraulic system to operate it. The tractors are a very simple system.

[JGtools]

thanks Big Bill. everything is working out real fine. Jim