Clutch springs????? Slipping clutch

[BigBill]

Clutch Springs(pressure plate):

Has anyone thought of installing stronger clutch springs in the 154 pressure plate?? I have both new and used pressure plates but i'm thinking of making it stronger.

Slipping Clutch:

On my last 154 purchase the clutch would pull through in hi range(creeper) but it wouldn't slip in low range. This lead me to believe the clutch disc is glazed really bad from light use. After a visual inspection i found the clutch disc to be still thick width wise. I continued to use the tractor even though the clutch was slipping and it finally stopped. I took the glaze off and finally it grabs now. I did purchase a new pressure plate and clutch disc for it anyhoo.

I did find that pushing dirt/gravel in 3rd gear with the creeper engaged in low range it worked awesome.

[Garland Terry]

you might be on to something there. I would prefer to see a bigger diameter clutch even a 12 inch would be better.

[BigBill]

you might be on to something there. I would prefer to see a bigger diameter clutch even a 12 inch would be better.

There really isn't room for a bigger clutch so were kind of stuck with what it is. But it can be changed over to a farmall clutch setup if we put the flywheel on the engine. I would rather rework the orginal pressure plate with either dual springs or single springs just to make it a tad stiffer.

[Garland Terry]

sorry I badly mistyped!! I ment to state 1/2 inch bigger in diameter not a 12 inch clutch. I was quite horrified at my engineering faux pax. That kind of misunderstanding starts all kinds of trouble. Like accidently shooting an Arch-duke while cleaning ones pistole. I wish somebody would come up with a doublestack clutch like on a BIG tractor. Then there is that nasty breaking of the final drive thing. Keep looking . GT I see the health reform bill passed in committee. Are we healthly yet??? I don't feel so good.....GT

[BigBill]

We do have the fcub option too of installing the flywheel/clutch from the fcub into the 154 on the engine. Then we can cut the fcub driveshaft to fit. We could cut it and make a sleeve coupling using key hole welds to put it together. This way we would eliminate the pins but we would also lose the PTO. It would be ok for my build(FEL). Just thinking out loud......

[SONNY]

There is NO way that I would put that much load on my sloppy clutch splines and get by without breaking them the rest of the way out!--They are half gone now and clutch grabs like you cant believe! ---wish I could weld up and grind to shape a few of the splines a bit to get more meat in there! thanks; sonny

[BigBill]

Sure you can weld up the splines and file them to match it would be better than what you have now. I would weld the other side of the splines rather than the driven side so the driven side is exactly the same. You could thicken up the splines with some 3/32" hardface or stainless weld and then grind them to match the closest you can. This is my plan anyway for the future. I been buying some hardface rod on ebay.

[Garland Terry]

sounds like a lot of work. I wish some smart cat would start turning out driveshafts. There seems to be a market for them and surely there is a member with the equipment to do it. My drive shaft splines are in pretty good shape but my coupleer hole is egg shaped. GT

[BigBill]

sounds like a lot of work. I wish some smart cat would start turning out driveshafts. There seems to be a market for them and surely there is a member with the equipment to do it. My drive shaft splines are in pretty good shape but my coupleer hole is egg shaped. GT

You can weld up the coulper hole and redrill it. You need a lathe and a milling machine with an indexer then the splines can be welded up and remachined. But i would rather see the splines welded with hardface and ground to there size.

Many years ago i would see the old timers put some white grease on the tranmny splines to reduce wear. I may add some moly on my splines justa little will do the trick, then all the wear is eliminated.

If your pilot bushing is worn that does help the life of the splines too.

Keep in mind these machines are over 40 years old now too. I wonder what the life expectanty of these tractors was to IH?

[Garland Terry]

sounds like a lot of work. I wish some smart cat would start turning out driveshafts. There seems to be a market for them and surely there is a member with the equipment to do it. My drive shaft splines are in pretty good shape but my coupleer hole is egg shaped. GT

You can weld up the coulper hole and redrill it. You need a lathe and a milling machine with an indexer then the splines can be welded up and remachined. But i would rather see the splines welded with hardface and ground to there size.

Many years ago i would see the old timers put some white grease on the tranmny splines to reduce wear. I may add some moly on my splines justa little will do the trick, then all the wear is eliminated.

If your pilot bushing is worn that does help the life of the splines too.

Keep in mind these machines are over 40 years old now too. I wonder what the life expectanty of these tractors was to IH?

yep 40 years old. That makes it one of my "newer" ones!..... are we healthly yet? GT

[BigBill]

My first 154 is a 1970 while my other two are 1968's i believe.

I seen a 154 hydro on the 154 site and i wonder if its a proto type or was it in production?