FEL Project Pics wanted

[outdoors4evr]

POST PICS! POST PICS! POST PICS!

It's been long enough! If you are searching out hoses for your FEL project then it must be assembled enough to start posting pics!
(Curious minds want to know)

[BigBill]

Are you talking to me? Your talking to me right? There's no one else here about an FEL but me right??

I'll post my subframe pics asap. I just have them tac'd up but i'm not finished welding them underneath. I tac'd welded it on the top and the bottom and when i pull the engine for rebuilding we will put some 5/8"-11 G8 bolts threw the subframe to the tractor frame too. I boxed the front part of the frame too. With just the front part of the FEL subbed up it has less flex now too. The pics are 3 days of work inbetween breaks. (i'm very slow when i'm fabricating with just no prints and an idea thats when i'm at my best I just fly with it).

The 1/2" thick vertical plate ties in the subframe to the bottom frame rails horizontally. We do not weld on the vertical part of the orginal frame or subframe anywhere because it will weaken it. Were only welding the top and bottom edges. The 4 beams for the backhoe will come off the 1/2" plate to the rear on the bottom. The other two will come from the seat bracket like the 3pt top support comes from. The seat will turn 360 degrees to operate the backhoe or drive the tractor. My plan is to keep it simple, make it strong and keep it light. Since my 154 is larger than a cub cadet my backhoe will be larger than a cub cadet one but smaller than a 580 case backhoe.

My two lifting arms are cut but they need to be drilled so i can fit the length and the angle of them so there exactly the same. Were finally moving now with no interuptions i hope. I hope to have a running tractor with the FEL by the time its cold. The brackets for the backhoe will be on it too. I maybe fabricating until it snows if i continue on the backhoe. I have to rebuild the engine and install the creeper and the new clutch. I need to design the power steering now too.

Let me know what you think of these pic's so far, be honest. I know i'm slow. BB

I finally split up with my son now, he works on the cub cadets while i work on the 154.

[BigBill]

Its still missing some gussets(correct spelling from the english teacher Connectikit) I called them agussets he calls them gussets and i'll believe him, he's right.....

My plan is to fabricate the two lower beams for the backhoe support next. Then my gussets will be connected to the lower beams too. It all ties in together.

I trimmed back the channels on both sides so the orginal front fiberglass radiator/headlite shroud will still fit.

The frame on the inside were it goes wide to narrow it needs to be boxed on the inside where the bends are to strengthen it. I've seen cracks in this area on other 154's.

[b52c130]

Big Bill,
Great job !!! Nice design !!!!
Please make lots of pictures to share as your FEL project moves along.
Thanks, NJDale

[BigBill]

Thanks for the support, I was hoping to hear from the others too. My mind sometimes is thinking too far ahead, because i'm thinking about how to run the hydraulic lines now too and the hoses/fittings. I also have a higher flow pump and some flow restrictors if needed too. I hate to have the hydraulics slow when scooping with the bucket. I don't want it too fast nor do i want to wait for the bucket to turn up while i'm on the clutch moving forward. I'm thinking about a 54" or 60" front bucket.

I'm also debating to put a plate inside the frame were the engine is to sandwich the orginal frame and to add strength were the weakest spot is so when the FEL subframe sees the load it won't flex at that moment. A little 3/16" plate along side the engine between the mounts would prevent any future problems. You can call it over kill or having a safety factor on my side. This would make the frame in that area around 9/16" total thick in the engine area.

[Landreo]

Keep the photos coming!. A 60 inch bucket may be too big depending on what you plan on loading. What are you going to do wiht the front axel and spindles, leave stock and wait for them to break or do you have other thoughts?

[BigBill]

Keep the photos coming!. A 60 inch bucket may be too big depending on what you plan on loading. What are you going to do wiht the front axel and spindles, leave stock and wait for them to break or do you have other thoughts?

I'm not going to do really heavy work with the bucket. I just need some drainage work done right now when its done. I expect it to do light work a little more than a cub cadet yet much less than a case 580. The backhoe part of it will be worked more than the bucket i'm sure.

I'm not sure yet. I may add gussets to the front spindles and weld a steel vertical truss bar under the orginal front cast iron axle. I been thinking also of measuring the ID of the front spindles and pressing in more ball bearings besides the orginal outer flanged bearings. I'd like to go with power steering too if my time allows it right now. I'm thinking of using the orginal hydraulic pump for the power steering. The new larger hydraulic pump will be mounted were the PTO take off pulley is located at under the dash mount. Where to put the new larger oil tank is questionable right now.

Update; I bent 3" pipe for reinforcement for the uprite supports and we have it all welded up now. Pics to follow soon. Were almost done with the front subframe part of the FEL. Next we will be working on the arms now that we have a location of the uprites. Once the arms are finished we can work on the rear subframe for the backhoe part of it. Then we can strip the frame down to wire brush and paint it. Then we can assemble it squeeky clean. My engineer son is having some hands on fun i have him cutting (torch) and grinding steel now. He will be welding soon too. (arc)

[b52c130]

Bill,
To strengthen the 'S' part of the frame - how would taking an old pair of frame rails, slitting them parallel to the ground lengthwise, then welding the resulting top and bottom 'caps' to the existing frame (either inside or outside) down the length of the frame toward the back end. Would that work or help?
Keep the good work going, NJDale

[BigBill]

I'm thinking of boxing the frame on the inside were the "S" bend is all the way to the tranny hookup if i can with 1/4" plate. Then my seat frame will be like the 3pt hitch setup and go out the rear with 6" channel for the backhoe frame. I been thinking of removing the angle for the foot rests and weld channel in its place either 2" or 3" so its just enough for the two 6" lower 5" or 6" channels horizontal I need to run from the vertical 1/2" plate on the FEL subframe out the rear for the lower backhoe support. Then i may run a 1/4' or 3/16" were the seat mount is vertical to connect the bottom channel, the orginal frame to the top channel so there all connected and inline and tied together. On the side of the 1/2" vertical plate i may need to connect the fel uprites at the rear to the lower channel with a piece of 3" pipe bent almost 90 degrees and welded in on both uprites. That would support the bending moment at the rear if there is any on the uprites.

The orginal frame is very very flexable so when working on the subframes you need to support the orginal frame is 3 places with jacks and a level. You need 3 zero's at the front, mid and rear on the frame so you know its perfectly level so when the subframes are attached it will stay level. Right now my front subframe is rock solid and soon the rear of the frame will be too. The only thing that will flex is the front axle pivot point in the center. You need to make sure he whole frame is in the same plane. Once you attach the subframes thats all she wrote and you will live with it twisted if you don't level it first. This is the most important thing about this whole process do it once and do it right. I want a working machine when i'm done and it has to look up to my standards too.

I'll take some pics tomorrow if it isn't raining.

[BigBill]

Keep the photos coming!. A 60 inch bucket may be too big depending on what you plan on loading. What are you going to do wiht the front axel and spindles, leave stock and wait for them to break or do you have other thoughts?

BTW; We need a 60" bucket do to the width of the 13.6x16 tires on the rear. You don't want the bucket any narrower than the tire width. It would be like using a narrow snowplow right? I'll check my measurements on the width tomorrow to besure i'm ok. I probably could get away with the 8.3's on the rear but i like those firestone 13.6 Ag's maybe when its all done i'll spring for the new AG's and 3 rib 750-10's on the front too.

[BigBill]

Sorry my next pics are taking so long were waiting for a steel bar i ordered to line up the uprite cross holes so there exactly level horizontally and vertical. My steel bar had to come from Chicago we just received it today. Getting material takes the longest time nowadays. No steel houses want to stock anything. I want to remove all the C Clamps before we shoot pics. But it did give us some time to dig out the extra front axle to think about the truss bar. I also cut some steel for the fast hitch on my fcub but thats another story.

[BigBill]

Bump, The latest pics to follow soon.

Remember all i have is some scrap steel, a welder, a cutting outfit, a few drills, a few grinders and an idea on how it should look. Well some structural schooling too. A son who is a mechanical engineer too. He is also helping and getting some hands on too. Sorry i forgot about my cheap $100 hydraulic hand operated pipe bender it sure came in handy bending the 3" steel pipe.

[b52c130]

Bill, Looking Great !!!
You will have to something major to those front spindles to bring them up to the equivalent of the loader frame though.
Keep on burning and melting, NJDale

[b52c130]

Bill,
For the front axle - spindle capacity increase, take a look at the old Massey Harris #20, #30, #44, 101 super, 101 Junior, and 101 Senior, Wide Factory Front Ends. Looks like they have a straight steel axle, center pivot, with a middle of axle 'King Pin' arrangement. Selection of increased wheel diameter would lift the front end back up to proper height and give larger tire size, capacity as well. Note that some models have center wheel lug holes and some have outer perimeter wheel mounting lugs.

See attached photo link (cut and paste into your browser address bar):

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... JHSNe_AxC4


Good Luck, NJDale

[BigBill]

I would really like to make the orginal front axle stronger just to test my ideas to see if it works. But the front spindles will need an upgrade too.

Options;
I know we need to make the front axle stronger so it can handle the FEL bucket loaded. I do have a new pair of the 5lug on 4.5BC spindles with tapered roller bearings sitting here if i go that way. If i beef up ther orginal castiron front axle with a steel truss plate on the bottom that should make the axle much stronger and solve the chance of splitting it in the center. I'm also thinking of installing the ball thrust bearings at the vertical position of the spindles so it can take the force/friction away from the steering. Of course this means reworking the front spindles. The more drag and friction we can eliminate the better it will be to steer it. Power steering is another option too.

The bucket;
I'm thinking of a 54" wide bucket now so it will limit the load that can be carried. I used the lightest material that i had in the scrap pile to fabricate the FEL subframe and uprites.

Lift arms;
About the FEL loader arms i'm using structural tubing with a 1 1/4" ID so we can install hardened bronze bushings with the 1" ID. Then i have some structural air craft tubing with the 1" OD and a 5/8" IN for the 5/8-11 bolt to secure it to the uprites. I'll never need to replace the moving parts at the hinge points on the arms but the moving parts are replaceable if need be.
We found enough of the structural tubing for the swivels on some of the backhoe parts too.

Right now we are working on the lower lift cylinder supports to get them welded in place. Then we need to connect the steering so we can move it to start on the subframe for the backhoe. Once everything is fitted and mocked up so we know it fits and works we can strip the frame down to inspect all the welds, clean and prep it for the caterpillar paint. Then we can start the assembly process. Were hoping to have the FEL/Tractor up and running so we can work on the backhoe part last.

I want to thank the www.machinebuilders.net/ too for giving me the driving force. There's a great bunch of fabricators there too. It just shows what can be done in the back yard with a pile of scrap steel and some tools. Well a having an idea too does help.