I'm looking at the bracket that holds the two round brake pucks. I'm thinking that the pucks don't stickout much more than a disc brake pad (material) would stickout meaning the thickness. Since the PO installed a disc brake pad already so i'm thinking of just using epoxy to hold my brake material to the bracket and maybe a few brake brass rivets. Since i have some of the highest friction rated material from Mcmaster carr already i'm thinking of using it for the flywheel brake. Wear wise it should last a longtime. Its just a thought, so what do you think?
How long do the brake pucks really last?
Keeping in mind this has to be adjusted correctly too with the .010" air gap when the brake pedal is all the way up. At the sametime the air gap on the throwout bearing is .090". Remember these two have to be adjusted insync together to work properly.
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Flywheel brake pucks???
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Flywheel brake pucks???
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
- Jersey_cub
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1952 Farmall Cub The Little Red Binder - Location: Farmingdale,NJ
Re: Flywheel brake pucks???
BigBill: As you know I just rebuilt the rear end of my 154 and part of the rebuild included replacing the clutch brake pucks. I adjusted them to speck and that was about two months ago, they now need to be readjusted.
In my experience I have not had good luck with the clutch brake staying in adjustment the pucks just don't hold up. And I assure you I use a feeler gauge to adjust the clutch clearance and clutch brake clearance to speck. I replaced the clutch six years ago and it's in perfect shape, but the clutch brake pucks wore in no time.
So in my opinion your idea is a good one. The only thing I would be concerned about is the heat transference with the larger braking surface if you are doing a lot of shift changes (ie forward and reverse).
One other thing I found that excessive adjusting of the clutch brake causes fatigue of the adjusting bolt and breakage.
In my experience I have not had good luck with the clutch brake staying in adjustment the pucks just don't hold up. And I assure you I use a feeler gauge to adjust the clutch clearance and clutch brake clearance to speck. I replaced the clutch six years ago and it's in perfect shape, but the clutch brake pucks wore in no time.
So in my opinion your idea is a good one. The only thing I would be concerned about is the heat transference with the larger braking surface if you are doing a lot of shift changes (ie forward and reverse).
One other thing I found that excessive adjusting of the clutch brake causes fatigue of the adjusting bolt and breakage.
- RaymondDurban
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Re: Flywheel brake pucks???
The only thing the clutch brake is for is to hold the pressure plate from turning. If your pucks are wearing out, then you might want to evaluate the manner you are bringing the tractor to a stop. The clutch brake will stop the tractor, but of course is not designed to do this and will quickly wear out. You need to press the brake pedal as well as the clutch pedal at the same time to bring the tractor to a stop, then slightly more pressure on the clutch pedal to hold the pressure plate if needed.
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Re: Flywheel brake pucks???
On my first int154 after i adjusted the clutch throwout bearing to .090" air gap and the flywheel brake pucks to .010" air gap and its been great for 3 years now. My problem is on my project tractor it needs the pucks but i'm looking for a better way to do it, something cheaper to replace and something that will last even longer.
Do you have the spring on the adjustment rod? I believe the spring adjusts the pressure the pucks put on the flywheel so there isn't too much force being applied. The pucks should put just enough of a drag to hold the flywheel still so the gears won't grind when shifting. I wasn't too fond of the setup when i first seen it but after reading how to adjust it i figured i give it a shot at doing it right before making any changes.
Do you have the spring on the adjustment rod? I believe the spring adjusts the pressure the pucks put on the flywheel so there isn't too much force being applied. The pucks should put just enough of a drag to hold the flywheel still so the gears won't grind when shifting. I wasn't too fond of the setup when i first seen it but after reading how to adjust it i figured i give it a shot at doing it right before making any changes.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
- Jersey_cub
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1952 Farmall Cub The Little Red Binder - Location: Farmingdale,NJ
Re: Flywheel brake pucks???
Gentleman: It's like having seven horses in a race, everyone picks the one they like, I was just expressing the experiences I have had with my 154 clutch brake, as far as I'm concerned there is a flaw in the design of that system. But there again that's just my opinion. Yes Bill there is a spring on the adjusting bolt, and that is the reason if you continue to adjust it eventually it will take the tension out of the spring. It could be there is a problem with my clutch brake that is causing it to wear so fast, I just can't see it. There again based on my experience I think your idea of using a disc brake pad is a better system.
Good luck with it and I hope it works out for you.
Good luck with it and I hope it works out for you.
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