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154 final drive
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:51 am
154 final drive
I now have my clutch and clutch drive assembly together. I haven't been able to get the frame welded yet. I was looking things over looking for other problems and found another. I need to remove the left final drive assembly to remove a broken bolt. I have a parts manual and service manual. It looks like I only need to get a seal for the differential shaft. Does the axle housing use a gasket? Neither book shows one. It is amazing how the transmission stayed in the frame. I have a broken right frame rail and the two lower front bolts were broken also. Plus, this bolt on the left side of the final drive. No wonder it developed a clutch and clutch driveline failure. I don't see how the previous owner could not know there was a problem. I would think that you could feel the rear end was loose.
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
Re: 154 final drive
No gasket is used. the oil in the final and tranny are both contained by seals.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 10+ Years
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Re: 154 final drive
SPIT the answer is spit I have lots of equipment held together with spit .
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 00000
- Location: in northern usa
Re: 154 final drive
I wonder if we should put a thin layer of clear silicone just to keep the water from getting in there? I also think it would keep the seals much cleaner too. Water can work its way thru every nook and cranny if you let it.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
Re: 154 final drive
The finals have drains to let any leaking oil out, as a standard cub does don't they? be sure not to seal them.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:51 am
Re: 154 final drive
Thanks guys. The more I look the more I find. I would like to quit looking but I can't. I want it to be right.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 7388
- Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 5:02 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Location: in northern usa
Re: 154 final drive
John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:The finals have drains to let any leaking oil out, as a standard cub does don't they? be sure not to seal them.
Yes there are slots for the brake rods just like the fcub has. I figure by putting a very thin layer of silicone over the top two thirds or from opening to opening would be like using an umbrella to keep the water out if its stored outside. Water, snow & ice can sure cause trouble in ever nook and cranny when there stored outside. This is why there is so much rust inside the extention tube on the right drive shaft on the fcubs its from the sepage of rain water, ice of snow getting in there. Using just a little clear silicone will solve this.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 40218
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Louisville
Re: 154 final drive
I would not recommend the use of any silicone.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:51 am
Re: 154 final drive
I got the final drive off today. It was a piece of cake. First I pulled off the Woods bracket from the trans assembly. Next I put the trans on its back with the wheels still on. Then I put a floor jack towards the left side enough to balance the assembly so I could remove the left wheel. Then I removed the wheel and unbolted the final drive assembly. Then I slid it off carefully. The cavity between the transmission case and the final drive was completely rust free. It had some grass clippings in it but that was it. I removed the broken bolt and put it back together. Hopefully I wont regret not putting in a new seal. The seal looked good so I lubricated the shaft and seal and carefully slid the shaft into the differential. The hardest part was trying to keep the assembled rear end upright while putting the Woods bracket back on. It took a few tries to get it lined back up. I think the whole thing took about an hour to do. Now I need to get my welding buddy to do his part. As far as putting any silocone in the area between the final drive and the transmission case I personally don't see any reason to do so. I know opinions vary. Now you have mine.
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