IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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Have a cub 154 SN 035801
Trans. is not working in 1st or rev. pulled the trans. cover. the little gear on the upper shaft is stripped clean. can I fix it in the tractor?
where to get a shaft/gear?
is it easier to change the whole trans?
any used ones for sale?
any info is appreciated.
Go to bottom of page and click on Ralphs Cubs. Ralph has about anything you will need and if you talk to him he can tell you exactally what to do.
In my book Ralph knows all. There are a lot good people on the form that can help you just hang in there.
Just sent him an e-mail
Second, replacing the damaged gear will require splitting the tractor. Gears should always be replaced as pairs, so that means removing the differential so the pinion shaft can come out to change the mating gear on the bottom shaft.
Here's what you should see when the shifter is removed, courtesy of Larry Davis:
Third, If Ralph can provide one it's probably the easiest and best repair to just replace the tranny because of other troubles that may be brewing. Except for the shifter any Cub transmission should interchange although the second gear may be a little different ratio.
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
thanks for the pic. it is exactly what I see. the part where the shifter tip goes into, was loose on the shaft for the 1st/reverse, and it must have casued the gears to not go alll the way in, or would not hold them in firmly
Ralph had a case on his web page.
Are you saying any cub trans will fit? what year range will work? any other differences other than 2nd gear with regard to install?
What I said is not quite true... but close. AFAIK, any Cub tranny will work, even from a Cub Cadet providing it has the original top shaft from your old transmission used. You could even end up with dual PTO, one live and one not. Ralph may have one with the right top shaft.
I never thought of it before, but using the F-Cub transmission could be a way around the pesky PTO clutch problems the 154 is prone to.
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
what is AFAIK
thanks for the insight
my tractor has a belly mower
AFAIK stands for As Far As I Know
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
I do have a 154 trans
The top shaft is different than the standard cub or the cadet.
as george said the transmissions are all bacically the same on all of them .
Jim the numbered series draw their hydro fluid fron the drain plug on the bottom of the trans at the drain plug and the trans case is the resivoir for the hydro and the return goes in a hose nipple on the shifting Plate.
Shoot low Sherriff they are Riding Shadows
4 Wheels move the body.....
2 Wheels move the Soul .....
Shop Phone 859-283-2668
Ralph in ky.
First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met
Popping a little bit late on this one but that's ok... there is some information on the Numbered Cubs on the Cub Manual Server at the link below, and more is coming as soon as I can upload what I have scanned. Hang in there.. best bet would be to probably get another tranny from Ralph and worry about the rest later.. that way you can play with it and end up with some useable spare parts maybe.
Either way, it will be fun, interesting and a learning experience. Enjoy and welcome to the community
Ok, so here is the spiel :
I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub. One of the other projects we have been working on and it will be a continuing effort is the How To Article Archive. This the the place to go to get all the quick links to some very good articles written by many members of the forum on solving some of the problems we encounter as we repair, maintain and up-grade our Cubs. Keep looking for this to grow.
Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:
I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.
IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.
In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.
Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.
I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family
If Ralph can hook you up with a tranny go for it. If its apart now is the time to put a clutch in it and all new seals too. The cub cadet tranny's have the same first gear/rev set up but the second gear has two different amounts of teeth and i'm not sure which one is in our 154's. I would spot/tac weld the first/rev fork at this time too so down the road it won't give you any problems too. Once its fixed thats it. You might as well checkout your PTO bearings at this time too while its apart its the time to go thru it. The top shaft is different on the cub cadet trany because of the gear reduction drive on the cadet and the 154 has the clutch setup in that spot with the flywheel brake. The 154 input shaft has the shaft with the hole for the pin. Does your 154 have the creeper setup? Thats a different thing too. If you go to http://www.partstree.com/parts/ and seach cub cadet then punch in model 154 you can see a diagram of parts and the prices of the gears too. One gear costs $300 so ralph's tranny makes sense to go that way if you can.
On your 154 you need to pull out the transaxle setup. Its different than a regular farmall cub. You need to wedge the front axle so it stays vertical when you block up the rear frame to remove the transaxle. You have the flywheel brake rod to disconnect, the brakes to disconnect, but i'm not sure what the clutch envolves yet to disassemble yet. I'm just looking at mine right now to see how big of a job it is to take apart and repair. The cold weather just isn't letting up here yet to give me a window of oppertunity to repair it before the yard work starts.
What a tractor this little INT 154 is. Mine has the 184 upgrade with the larger carb/manifold. I was out on my property this weekend and sunk the left front wheel up to the axle beam in the soft mud. I was hauling 12" steel I beams with my 3pt hitch. The little 4 cylinder managed to pull the tractor back and forth until I had all 4 wheels in the mud really stuck. I had both front wheels in the mudd and the rear tires were dragging the front end back and forth trying to free it when they finlly dug in too. By then I put it in netural and got my 4x4 jeep tractor to pull it out which it did with no problem. I put the jeep on the solid frozen ground and attacthed the chain to the 3pt hitch on the 154. The jeep never spun a tire with the lockers and tire chains. I had no clue that the mud was even there too it looked like the grass was frozen, the grass was frozen everywhere else until i hit the this hidden wet spot. My point is beaware were you drive right now.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
You guys really know your stuff
thanks again for all of the help and info and links
I e-mailed with ralph today, hope to speak to him tonight
I will let you know how I make out in a few weeks I hope ( optimistic time frame.....)
check out my web page if you like: http://www.easternsurplus.net
If you check out the TC-131 Parts Manual on the server, that might be a bit more easy to browse than an on-line search? Just a thought, the info is there..
So are a couple Maintenance Manuals.
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