Farmall Cub

I'm going to ask this here because i'm not sure were to ask it because of the wisdom here between all the cub and cub cadet owners here so someone may know the answer.

Since my 154 has the cub cadet tranny housing in the center is there different first/second gear ratio's that the cub cadet may have that i could install in my 154? I'm looking for a lower first gear. If i find a creeper setup i may want another choice of a lower gear ratio. It would be nice to have this option. Is there different ring and pinion ratio's?(lower)

Since i don't pull dirt plows I'm thinking of looking into a Loc-Rite differential locker so both back wheels are pulling at the sametime. I think thats another great option to have too. Or just spool it but that can create axles breaking too.

Maybe i'm wasting my time or i have too much time to think on my hands but having the ultimate stump pulling little cub would be awesome at the fairs? Think about it? I'm thinking of looking for a basket case 154 or 184 and giving it a make over and a whole new life. You can have the biggest motor but the power and traction comes from the gearing.

Bill - check with some of the guys who are into garden tractor pulling. I know that there are alternate gearsets available for the cub / cub cadet tranny case. You will have to change sets rather than individual gears.

Check this link and look around:

http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/builders.htm

J & S sells gearsets - probably many others too

Bill Midwest Super Cub has many different gear sets (over 50), What I don't know if they have Ist lower. All the pulling gears we use have higher second and third ratios. My better half tossed all my old catalogues so I dont have there E Mail adress right now Ill look for it . Frank

Brain Fart again. It was right in my favorites. http://www.midwestsupercub.net

Depending on what you intend to do, don't forget the 154 has a smaller clutch than the regular cub.

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:Depending on what you intend to do, don't forget the 154 has a smaller clutch than the regular cub.

This is what info looking for too can i put in a larger clutch or will it be ok with the gear ratio changes? I know the ratio changes can take a lot of pressure off the engine and clutch but it transfers it to somewhere down the drive line.

I been there with my drag race car years ago. I beef up one thing and the next thing breaks.

We run Cub Cadets with as much as 50 dyno h.p. stock dia. clutch, about 5 inch We throw out the stock disc, replace it with 1/4inch aluminum; stock dia. driveshaft, 5/8inch. I have never seen a properly installed clutch, or driveshaft fail. Once in a while the ring gear will come through the diff. BUT:you got another set of reductions in the finals and the larger tires, your putting a lot of torque on the ground. Frank

Since i don't pull dirt plows I'm thinking of looking into a Loc-Rite differential locker so both back wheels are pulling at the same time.

I'd like to see a discussion on this topic. Being an old farm boy, we always were in situations where one rear wheel slipping or locked while the other was turning was beneficial.

Eugene

Eugene wrote:

Since i don't pull dirt plows I'm thinking of looking into a Loc-Rite differential locker so both back wheels are pulling at the same time.

I'd like to see a discussion on this topic. Being an old farm boy, we always were in situations where one rear wheel slipping or locked while the other was turning was beneficial.

Eugene

Thats what i'm saying I don't need the other tire to turn the tractor straight with the brake on while plowing because i don't plow dirt so i can use a locked differential. Having two tires pulling together in my situation would be ok.

Plowing or not, having individual brake control over the rear tires is definitely beneficial and I think even more beneficial than a locked rear end. Judicious application of the brakes allows you to transfer slippage from one wheel to the other or to get them to pull together if you like. Plus, there are no disadvantages such as the strain created by the locked rear end.

not too mention being able to turn if the ground is a little slippery, the rear weighs a lot more than the front.

I guess it would be ok if you never intend to make any turns just travel in a straight line

I mentioned earlier about ring gears coming through differentials. that was a result of locked rear axles. To much traction is as bad as not enough. Somethings gotta give.