Just Acquired 185 Lo-Boy

[Eugene2]

Greetings All,

Long time coming, but I finally managed to spring a deal with my neighbor. I eagerly traded one of my homebuilt, flatbed trailers for his '75 185 Lo-Boy. Needs cosmetics, but that can wait. Soon, I'll need a reliable snow machine - we can easily see 3-4ft/yr.

Hour meter states 725. It has a decent, Johnson FEL (front end loader) and matching 6' rear blade. A factory (I assume) 3-point hitch, and the optional stump-pulling creeper. Good rubber with snow chains installed on the rears. It's a driver (well... somewhat), engine sounds pretty good, but the clutch slips - especially in high. However, the creeper does allow at least some limited movement (replacement parts already ordered).

Questions;

1.) It has an additional hydraulic pump attached to the rear PTO stub, and is intended solely for the bucket - it does function ok, but the PTO clutch is toast. Not only is the PTO clutch trashed, but the PTO drive shaft bearings are squealing and need replacing. I'd prefer to completely remove the entire assembly (front to back), and install the pump where the double PTO drive pulleys are near the flywheel. There's more than enough room. Question is, would driving the pump continuously be a serious problem?

2.) The hood (top panel) is missing, along with both side 1/4 panels (hiding the flywheel area). I'm just south of Spokane, WA, so are there any sources near here that anyone might know of. -eugene-

[Gary Dotson]

Welcome to the forum! I don’t think running the pump full time should cause any problems. It will give you live hydraulic, like all modern tractors have. I have no idea about west coast parts suppliers.

[outdoors4evr]

Questions;

1.) It has an additional hydraulic pump attached to the rear PTO stub, and is intended solely for the bucket - it does function ok, but the PTO clutch is toast. Not only is the PTO clutch trashed, but the PTO drive shaft bearings are squealing and need replacing. I'd prefer to completely remove the entire assembly (front to back), and install the pump where the double PTO drive pulleys are near the flywheel. There's more than enough room. Question is, would driving the pump continuously be a serious problem?

2.) The hood (top panel) is missing, along with both side 1/4 panels (hiding the flywheel area). I'm just south of Spokane, WA, so are there any sources near here that anyone might know of. -eugene-

1.) This doesn't sound like a problem at all. The PTO runs at near engine speed and the pump must run every time the tractor is started so the bucket can be lifted. Most would just leave it on till they are done.
2.) For new parts, I'd check with HamiltonBobsCubs. For used parts, I'd look on ebay.

[Eugene2]

Thank you Gents,
Yes, I did purchase the clutch parts from Hamilton Bobs. Also, any specific hydro fluid recommendations?

[Eugene2]

Re: Clutch

Any of you gentlemen happen to know the NEW clutch disk thickness, (The outside friction surface)? Or, perhaps minimum wear thickness/tolerances? I don't yet have possession of the replacement disk just yet, so nothing to compare. Mine looks reasonably usable (not down to the rivits yet), but it was slipping excessively. I need to check the pressure plate springs - Are the OEM springs susceptible to failure?

Zilch from the shop manual. The manual does reveal pressure plate spring specs, but nothing regarding the disk.

Thank you

[staninlowerAL]

Thank you Gents,
Yes, I did purchase the clutch parts from Hamilton Bobs. Also, any specific hydro fluid recommendations?

HyTran or compatable should be OK.

[Eugene2]

Thank you Gents,
Yes, I did purchase the clutch parts from Hamilton Bobs. Also, any specific hydro fluid recommendations?

HyTran or compatable should be OK.

Thank you, Stan

[Eugene2]

Re: Clutch

Any of you gentlemen happen to know the NEW clutch disk thickness, (The outside friction surface)? Or, perhaps minimum wear thickness/tolerances? I don't yet have possession of the replacement disk just yet, so nothing to compare. Mine looks reasonably usable (not down to the rivits yet), but it was slipping excessively. I need to check the pressure plate springs - Are the OEM springs susceptible to failure? Zilch from the shop manual. The manual does reveal pressure plate spring specs, but nothing regarding the disk.
Thank you

Think I discovered at least one of my clutch slipping issue - I measured the pressure plate springs...
Service Manual states: 1.210" free height & 0.810" compressed
Mine (average)........... : 0.873" free height & not measured

[Eugene2]

Beginning to think I ran everybody off. Bummer

Just a discovery; In researching the OEM clutch pilot bushing part #251266R1, I find that the OD for this bushing is stated as 0.810".
Mine is verified at exactly .875". Good thing I failed to order one. I managed to score a bushing locally.

Re the OEM Owner's manual.... Lots of MISSING critical information.

1.) No transmission or creeper lubrication filler access location specified. Needed to rely on common sense and logic.
2.) Locating ALL of the many zert fittings has become a proverbial Easter Egg hunt - Little doubt i'll likely miss one... or two.
3.) Apparently, no engine oil filter housing drain - Simply removing the used engine oil filter allows much of the collected crud to drain into the return port (I was amused seeing an YT member do just that). Poor R&D? Again, I needed to resort to a suction pump to evacuate the housing prior to removing the used filter. Not a problem, but it would've nice to read about this, otherwise, glaring omission in the OM prior to replacing the filter. Again, common sense and logic prevailed here yet again.

[RaymondDurban]

….
3.) Apparently, no engine oil filter housing drain - Simply removing the used engine oil filter allows much of the collected crud to drain into the return port (I was amused seeing an YT member do just that). Poor R&D? Again, I needed to resort to a suction pump to evacuate the housing prior to removing the used filter. Not a problem, but it would've nice to read about this, otherwise, glaring omission in the OM prior to replacing the filter. Again, common sense and logic prevailed here yet again.

Does your machine not have this port at the bottom of the oil filter housing?

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