New Cub LowBoy 154 owner

[Eugene]

Coolant overflowing. Sediment build up. You need to flush the engine block and bottom of the radiator. Search this site for a how to and the flushing tools.

Starter/generator not shutting off. Faulty ignition switch or faulty solenoid.

Throttle problem. Spray the linkage. Set over night, spray again. Work the throttle, spray again. You can reach the spray areas with out removing the hood.

[Gary Dotson]

The issue with the starter / generator continuing to run after engine shutdown might be a bad starter solenoid, or possibly a bad starter switch.
On the throttle not holding at wot, there is a tension adjustment on the side of the throttle lever. Look in the lever opening, with a flashlight, to see it. You can adjust to increase tension with a small wrench. When the engine is at full load, such as spinning the mower up, the governor spring puts a lot of force against the cable.

[Brynki]

Here are the pics I meant to send last night.

[Eugene]

Overnight, the hydraulics bled down and now the belly mower is on the ground. That might be normal.

Not normal. Leaking control valve if there is no hydraulic oil puddle on the floor.

What fuel do you all run?

Regular ethanol.

[Brynki]

Okay, I just realized I made it to page 2. LOL. Again, thank you everyone for your advice.

Eugene, you are a font of wisdom! I truly appreciate your insight! So, I made a temp overflow bottle (Jake's Peach Iced Tea) and zip-tied it in place to see if that is the problem when next I run it. I may call around and see if anyone still repairs old radiators like this. Of course, for $150 I could get a new one... I'm going to run it one more time and see if, maybe, I just didn't have the cap fully on, as well. As for the constant cranking problem, I was thinking much the same (switch or solenoid). I'll start with troubleshooting the switch and go from there. I have all the part numbers on file for everything, though, just in case. The throttle seems to slide easily. In this case, it returns to half throttle so I'm going to play with adjustments. I'll probably shoot some lubricant down the guide cables, though.

Gary, thank ya, sir! As mentioned above, I just need to dig into it and figure out the adjustments on the throttle.

I got all of the manuals that I have been reading through and developing my list of things I plan to buy to get Old Yeller looking good and working better.

[Eugene]

Thermosyphon cooling system. Don't fill the radiator completely full. Only fill the radiator to just over the tubes.

No water pump. Sediment builds up in lower parts of the cooling system and need to be flushed out.

[outdoors4evr]

The upper part of the radiator is your "overflow bottle". If overfilled, they will dump a bit of fluid out until they find their happy place (just above the fins inside the radiator).
Your hydraulics should not leak down. They should stay where you put them overnight. Note: It is best to leave them in a relaxed (lowered) position.

[Brynki]

Eugene and Outdoors - As a fuel systems mechanic on aircraft (climbing inside of aircraft fuel tanks to repair leaks and replace components), I am familiar with thermal expansion of heated fluids. When I got the tractor, the radiator had been filled all the way up to the filler neck. That is what I was figuring had happened, it overflowed out the hose and then got picked up by the heat of the radiator and the fan and blown all over the place. It was such a mess that I couldn't make a definitive determination. Since the radiator might still have an excess of fluid, I decided to put a bottle on the bottom of the overflow tube to catch any further spill over.

I haven't checked any of the fluid levels of the hydraulics. I am going to order a bunch of filters and such soon to start working on stuff after the holidays. At the moment, I'm mostly concerned with the constant over-cranking of the starter. I'm going to be testing out the ignition switch over the holiday and then order the filters and a new solenoid if that isn't the problem. I may get spindle rebuild kits and either sharpen or replace the blades on the deck, as well.

So much to do but it should be fun.

[outdoors4evr]

That overflow tube should end just short of the axle outside the fan shroud. It sounds like yours might be misrouted. The fan should not have been able to pick up and distribute the fluid.
Guess ya got an extra shower this week!

As for the throttle, it should stay put wherever you leave it. There is a bolt on the side of the throttle lever that needs to be snugged up. It is accessible under the cowling. There should be an access hole (maybe 1/2") that should let you slide a socket and extension in there.

[Brynki]

Alright, it has been a minute but I figure that now, with the warmer weather, I'm going to be getting into this a bit more, especially since I plan to use it a LOT this summer.

So, y'all were right. The radiator was overfilled. I'm about to remove my overflow bottle as it isn't needed since the radiator self-regulated the amount of fluid needed. I will get a longer tube to run down below the fan, though, just in case I make this mistake in the future and overfill.

I'm going to be digging into my PTO next. It had been working just fine though it seemed to be slipping a little bit while running the mower deck and not winding up to full speed. I could get it there but I had to nurse it along to get it up to full speed. Now, as soon as I try to engage it, it just stops spinning with any kind of load on it. I'm going to make a separate post about this, though.

The list I have for replacement parts is EXTENSIVE. Old Yeller was road hard and put up wet, a LOT. I've been getting a lot of battery drain and thought it might just be a weak battery. Today, I decided to trace the wiring and found a couple of cuts in the ignition wire that were causing a short. Those repaired, with a jump box, I got the tractor running but the battery still won't take a charge. Added that to the list.

The old girl is going to nickle and dime me to death, I know, but I'm looking forward to the challenge and nursing her back to full health and giving her a full face lift. I've been looking for a project to play with for a while. I got one. LOL! Once I have a chance, I'll post some pictures of the old girl in action. Meanwhile, I'm going to be looking for 2 or 3-point and a tiller. I REALLY don't want to have to rent a tiller that is going to beat me to death, again.

[Brynki]

I figured out my PTO problem after I removed some more panels. The double PTO belts are a bit worn out. I figured out the tension adjuster and got it working well enough to get the yard mowed. With that up and running now, it introduced a new problem, the spline teeth in the PTO pulley are rusted out. I'll be ordering a new one from HamiltonBob's along with the new PTO belt and everything to replace the plug wires, distributor and rotor. I have a few questions, though.
1. With the double PTO belts, how in the world do you get them around the drive assembly? I found a video from John Seger showing how he did it. I was wondering if there might be an easier way, though?
2. The PTO pulley PIN, 3/16 x 2 C-Z cot. I cannot find a picture of it anywhere. Is this just a standard cotter pin? A clevis pin? What do y'all suggest?
3. While I'm looking at replacing the cap and rotor, I was thinking I might as well replace the points and condenser. First car I bought for myself in around 1992 was a 1969 VW Campmobile so I know a bit about them. I saw that Bob's carries the electronic ignition replacement and the few people who commented on how well it worked. I'm wondering, though, is it really worth it? I mean, I'm thinking three times the price of condenser and points to never have to adjust points again might be worth it on its own but is it that much better?

I hope y'all are having a great spring!

[Gary Dotson]

I don’t think there is an easy way to change those belts, it’s a bit of a job. I haven’t replaced a set for a very long time, perhaps someone else will come along with some helpful tips.
I have installed Pertronix ignition kits on a bunch of Cubs and a lot of other tractors and classic cars. It makes them start and run much better, worth every penny, in my book.

[Brynki]

I don’t think there is an easy way to change those belts, it’s a bit of a job. I haven’t replaced a set for a very long time, perhaps someone else will come along with some helpful tips.
I have installed Pertronix ignition kits on a bunch of Cubs and a lot of other tractors and classic cars. It makes them start and run much better, worth every penny, in my book.

Good enough for me, Gary. Thanks for the response. I remember installing one on my old VW Campmobile at one point but, soon after that, I was driving like an idiot, downshifted instead of upshifted, and blew a spark plug out of the head. I had replaced so many heads on that beast, I decided to get rid of it right after I fixed it. So, I never got to really get a good feel for how well the electronic ignition worked. Changing my order with HamiltonBob's. I'm kicking myself for not sending this one out sooner because we FINALLY have a weekend without rain and my grass is almost knee high and I need that pulley to mow. I guess I'm still an idiot 30 years later. LOL

[Brynki]

So, update since last time and more questions (of course).
The belts were a LOT easier to change than I thought they'd be. I got them all replaced and now the mower runs like a top.
I got a bunch of bolts and screws for my 154 and, unfortunately, I don't think any of them fits anywhere on my tractor that I could find.
I figured out that someone had already installed the electronic ignition so that saved me about $80. I got the cap, rotor and plug wires (I replaced the plugs a couple of months back). I put on the cap and rotor to give them a try as I didn't have the time, then, to build plug wires from scratch. The wire kit I got from HamiltonBobs were pretty chintzy. I'm going to go to AutoBone and get the better terminal ends or use the ones off the old wires. They seem like they are in pretty good shape.

The big question: Has anyone found a pre-made set from from one of the auto parts stores that works? I don't have access to all the tools I once I had since moving so far away from my dad. I don't really feel like buying tools I may never use, again. I have enough of those taking up space in my shop.

[indy61]

The big question: Has anyone found a pre-made set from from one of the auto parts stores that works?

The problem with pre-made plug wires is getting them through the cable bracket on top of the engine. They are available from many sources.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_S67475

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... farmall-ih

https://brillman.com/product/ihc-cub-lo ... -wire-set/

https://www.amazon.com/Sparex-S-67475-S ... LUGP&psc=1