Stuck brake drum and spacer

[rednax]

I have been working on restoring my 184 for the past year and it's definitely in need of a restoration. Both brake drums were rusted on the differential shaft, and I got one off by hammering (with a mallet) the differential side of the shaft until the shaft came out of the final drive. On the other side, I wasn't able to get very far before the shaft didn't go any farther. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I tried using a propane torch on the brake drum, but it's so cold outside that the brake drum doesn't heat up enough.

Also, the wheel spacers are rusted onto the hubs and I wasn't able to get them off. I bolted a bar to them, tried to pry them off and hammered them to no avail. What would some other options be? I was thinking about bolting the wheel to the spacer and using it to pull the spacer off.
Finally, what are some ways to get grease out of the tight spaces of the final drive? I want to make it look good since I've taken it apart this far already.

Thanks!

[outdoors4evr]

Also, the wheel spacers are rusted onto the hubs and I wasn't able to get them off. I bolted a bar to them, tried to pry them off and hammered them to no avail. What would some other options be? I was thinking about bolting the wheel to the spacer and using it to pull the spacer off.

Maybe try removing all the wheel spacer bolts and thread a couple in from the back side. Maybe stuff a sacrificial metal object (like an old screwdriver) into the wheel spacer hole and then use the bolt to jam against it and push it off. Probably will have to push it off from both sides using two bolts. The bolts will probably be trashed when finished and will probably need the ends cut off so they don't damage the hub but the bolts are cheap.

Another option:
Warning: Danger to driver! Loosen the wheel spacer bolts and drive it around.

[SONNY]

To clean as much as you want to,---gonna have to steam clean it!
Driving around with bolts loose usually dont work, so go for pressing them from the back side if you can.

[outdoors4evr]

I wondered if that would help - since the weight is on the lip rather than the bolts.

[rednax]

It got a bit warmer so I tried to heat up the brake drum again and it didn’t work again. I had read somewhere that you have to install the differential shaft from the outside, but I noticed that it would be possible to take it out the opposite way.

I took off the bearing on the outside and used a small punch to knock out the oil seal. I was then able to remove the shaft without taking off the brake drum first.

As you can see, the brake drum has seen better days. The whole tractor was basically used up. The crankshaft journals were really messed up and the cylinders were .006 over.

I know this is a bit off topic, but when do you ususally paint your engine block? I know that some car guys paint the block before they assemble it and some tractor guys usually just paint the tractor all at once, but would it be a good idea to paint it separately since I already have it apart?

Now I’m going to try to get the wheel spacers off.

[Bill V in Md]

I know this is a bit off topic, but when do you ususally paint your engine block? I know that some car guys paint the block before they assemble it and some tractor guys usually just paint the tractor all at once, but would it be a good idea to paint it separately since I already have it apart?

Now I’m going to try to get the wheel spacers off.

If you have removed the engine, I would paint it before reassembly. It is easier to paint on an engine stand than on the tractor. If you have removed the engine and are planning to paint the whole tractor, another option would be to install the engine to as much of the heavy parts as is practical and paint that entire assembly before installing the smaller parts.

[outdoors4evr]

On a 184, there is a lot of frame rail in the way. I'd paint the block and the frame before installing the engine.

Regarding the crank, you can have that ground and use oversize bearings. Mine is currently ground .010 and that size bearings are available from CaseIH and are the cheapest source I have found.

For the cylinders, .006 is good for a bore to .010 or .020 - depending on the condition of the cylinders. Now if that .006 (six thousandths) is really .060 (sixty thousandths) then that block is truly "used up" and would need to be sleeved or replaced. Rings and new pistons are readily available from many sources as .010, .020, .030, .040 oversized.