Removal of tires - solo

[Kaibel]

I have a IH 184 with the big lawn tires. They don’t necessarily feel/sound filled, but they are still not light. A lifetime ago, I would have use a skidsteer or winch to help lift tires up. Now days, the 184 is the only big piece of equipment I have, and only do basic things now like mowing and using the grader.

I might(?) be able to get a friend to help out eventually, but both of our schedules are kinda tight. I need to get the tires off to replace the brake shoes, but want to avoid an ER visit with crush injury if I can! Do you all have any tips/tricks for getting these things off in a two door garage? …thought about using a chain over the tree in the back.. but want to keep that last ditch if I can.

Rando second question. Does the guy that modifies rear seals still do that by chance? This one leaks, but not bad enough to be a huge issue. Enough to slowly coat stuff though.

[Don McCombs]

viewtopic.php?t=116548

[Kaibel]

https://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=116548

I appreciate it. Thanks! I’ll follow that for the rear main seal.

[Eugene]

You will need to jack up and support the tractor to remove the final(s) to get to the brakes. Unable to lift, suggest a shop crane/cherry picker to remove the finals.

Rear tires, floor jack to slightly lift that side of tractor. Unbolt, slide tire out, roll tire away. You can use a long bar under the tire to help lift/remove it.

[Dale Finch]

I'm usually working on my cubs by myself...an engine hoist (folding) is my best friend for most work!!

[Kaibel]

I appreciate it. Gonna deff have a friend help out. Since I no longer have equipment that can lift and move it for me, might stabilize it using a chain and the main support beam. Either that or build a quick and dirty a-frame with pulley.

[Eugene]

Rent, borrow, buy an engine hoist. You will need to move the finals away from the transmission/differential.

[SONNY]

I just drag them off and roll them away BUT if you cant then as Dale says --- ENGINE HOIST would work.

[Kaibel]

Didn’t want to make a whole new thread for a follow up question. Been slowly repairing and restoring it. Now, the ignition is out and found the ballast resistor to be cracked in a few pieces on the original alternator. Got a replacement igntion ready for when I can get the steering wheel off, but for the life of me, I can’t find an equivalent resistor.

Does anyone know where I can buy a 25 Ohm 25 watt ballast resistor? All I can find is for 4 Ohm and less!! Some places claim exact replacement, but then list it as way low ohmage. Very close to just throwing on a basic ceramic resistor and jerryrigging it on.. They are cheap too.

[Jim Becker]

The original part number for it is 534784R1. It currently subs to 107558C1. You can web search either one and find some options. In automotive applications the term "ballast" usually applies to the ones in the ignition system. So including it in any search is likely to lead you to the very low resistance parts.

For other options, any 25 ohm resistor rated for a couple watts makes a reasonable substitute, as would a diode. If you use a diode, the end with the stripe goes towards the alternator. If you want to be fancy, use a light bulb (side marker size) and it will be a functioning idiot light.

[Don McCombs]

Take the old one to your local NAPA. They’ll have one. If you don’t have NAPA, try a GM dealer.

[Kaibel]

Take the old one to your local NAPA. They’ll have one. If you don’t have NAPA, try a GM dealer.

Oh, dang. Didn’t know it was that easy! Thanks!

[Kaibel]

The original part number for it is 534784R1. It currently subs to 107558C1. You can web search either one and find some options. In automotive applications the term "ballast" usually applies to the ones in the ignition system. So including it in any search is likely to lead you to the very low resistance parts.

For other options, any 25 ohm resistor rated for a couple watts makes a reasonable substitute, as would a diode. If you use a diode, the end with the stripe goes towards the alternator. If you want to be fancy, use a light bulb (side marker size) and it will be a functioning idiot light.

Thanks! Been looking for days with a million different search terms with no automotive or tractor related results >5ohm. So, been a little frustrated with it lol. Even had a dude at autozone tell me that no tractor would have ever had a 25ohm resistor on it, till I showed it to him anyway.. The search for exact replacement has been a fun one. Appreciate the help!

Oh, and on my 184, its the type with the long bolt to hold it on (the type shown on page 223 of the service manual. srry, no idea how to put images on here), but I think I can get the other style on no problem.

Edit: Calculated it up. To get kinda close to 25 ohm resistance in a 12v circuit, will use a little 12v 5 amp incandescent car bulb! All thats needed is a way to shield it from stuff splashing on it (in dash or directly on alternator) and good to go. Though, a diode would be a lot easier.

[Gary Dotson]

The value of that resister isn’t very critical. It needs to flow enough current to excite the alternator but not enough to back flow from the alternator to the coil and prevent engine shutdown. I just wire in a diode, it’s dirt simple and works perfectly.

[Eugene]

I just wire in a diode, it’s dirt simple and works perfectly.

I use a toggle switch on my WD Allis to excite the alternator. Start engine, toggle switch on, alternator charging, toggle switch off, alternator still charging.

Whatever process, as Gary says, it's dirt simple.

Local electrical supply should have a diode that will work.