to buy or not to buy

IH CUB Lo-Boy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Lo-Boy related issues.

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Eugene
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Eugene » Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:54 pm

Stevos_loboy wrote:The 1/2" pipe plug located on the rear plate of the transaxle is source to fill the level of the fluid, correct?
Correct.

The hydraulic system on the numbered Cubs is one way. Meaning hydraulic pressure to extend the cylinder(s), implement weight to retract the piston.

If the cylinder(s) are already extended to the max, engine will bog down, and no movement of the cylinder. You will need some type of weight/force to retract the cylinder.

The hydraulic control lever will return to the center/off position when released - if that was your question.

Edit. Check the hydraulic fluid level. If you had/have a hydraulic fluid leak, it will drip all over the shop floor.

2nd edit. Check the hydraulic fluid level with the cylinder(s) retracted.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Stevos_loboy
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Stevos_loboy » Sat Sep 07, 2019 7:07 pm

Finally had time to get that stay bar out. Eugene, I'm not sure if my 154 being a 1969 model makes a difference, but the hydraulic control level can be moved out then pushes forward for what seems to be a "floating" effect for the cylinders, at least the rear cylinder - ? Found out the 3 point hitch works great but the mid lift cylinder seems to be locked up, won't budge!

Eugene
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 07, 2019 7:24 pm

Stevos_loboy wrote:Finally had time to get that stay bar out. Eugene, I'm not sure if my 154 being a 1969 model makes a difference, but the hydraulic control level can be moved out then pushes forward for what seems to be a "floating" effect for the cylinders, at least the rear cylinder - ?
Correct, center position is float.
Found out the 3 point hitch works great but the mid lift cylinder seems to be locked up, won't budge!
Reread some of the earlier posts on this topic. Tells you how to retract the tractor center cylinder.

Also, look at/read the owners manual. There is a lock out on the left, mid tractor, for the hydraulics.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Stevos_loboy
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Stevos_loboy » Sun Sep 08, 2019 8:20 am

The hydraulic lift lever does not seem to operate as per the illustration on page 11 of the operator's manual. The first noticeable difference is the lever on the machine I'm working on does not have "the hydraulic control lever is spring loaded" other than what feels like the resistance of the spool valve itself. Lever positions feel like neutral, lift and float. To get the lever in the float position I have to pull the lever out away from the tractor then push forward to clear the bolt that is directly north of the lever pivot bushing. IS THERE SUPPOSED TO BE A PHYSICAL SPRING SOMEWHERE ON THE LEVER?

"There is a lock out on the left, mid tractor, for the hydraulics." I have pilfered through the manual and have not seen this feature. Please direct me to the page of the manual referring to this. The only thing I see at the rockshaft / cylinder area would be a mechanical lift limit bracket that has an adjusting bolt .

Eugene
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Eugene » Sun Sep 08, 2019 9:05 am

The lock out on the left mid tractor is called "adjusting screw". Page 11, illustration 11, Operator's Manual.

Look under the center of the tractor. If the hydraulic cylinder is extended you will need to retract it and then add weight to get it to work properly.

No spring on the control lever. You shouldn't have to pull the lever side ways to get the system in the raise position.

Check to see if someone hasn't replaced the bolt that is obstructing the lever action.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Stevos_loboy
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Stevos_loboy » Sun Sep 08, 2019 9:55 am

Observations in my previous post were base on the movement of the rear cylinder for the 3PH, which seems to function fine! The mid lift cylinder must be locked in the extended position from surface rust on the cylinder piston rod, which I can't see and is on the back side of the rod facing away from my view. But I can feel the roughness with my fingers. Yesterday I sprayed the rod with Blaster and was able to buff most of the roughness off the rod with fine steel wool. I also tapped on the end of the rode with a hammer and a piece wood between but couldn't see any noticeable movement at the cylinder. If there is corrosion inside the cylinder, I wonder if the resistance between the seal and piston could be great enough to cause this. If I keep tapping the end of the rod I worry that the seal will be forced into the cylinder and destroy it.

The bolt head obscuring a smooth transaction to the float position is something I can live with, or replaced the hex head bolt with a button head, maybe?

Eugene
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Eugene » Sun Sep 08, 2019 3:21 pm

Eugene wrote:One way hydraulic system. Pressure only when the system is in the lift or hold position. It doesn't take a lot of weight or pressure to retract the mid tractor cylinder or the 3-point.

Set and hold the hydraulic control lever in the down position. This will remove the fluid pressure on the cylinders.

To retract the center tractor cylinder. Hydraulic control lever in the down position, large wrench on one of the levers/arms lifting the mower. I use a very large Crescent style wrench when removing or installing the mower deck.
Tractor needs to be running during this operation.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Stevos_loboy
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Stevos_loboy » Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:39 pm

Tried to drive it off the trailer for the first since bringing it home and gears are grinding. Clutch is really buggered up. Time for a new clutch when we replace the rear main seal. We did get it off the trailer - :D

seahaul
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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby seahaul » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:50 pm

Many times the rockshaft is stuck in place and the mid cylinder will not retract. Try removing the pin from the end of the cylinder that connects it to the rockshaft and see if you can move the rockshaft easily. If it's stuck, remove the two caps holding the rockshaft to the frame (where you see a grease fitting) and clean out all the old dried up grease.
The rockshaft must be free to pivot in order for the cylinder to retract.
Charlie

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Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Stevos_loboy » Wed Sep 11, 2019 3:08 pm

Thanks for the advise regarding the rockshaft Charlie, I'm glad I thought of it :oops: . I do believe this tractor had been sitting outside in the weather for an extended period of time without any intervention whatsoever. I will remove one of the pins securing the cylinder to the rockshaft and check it for movement, thanks again -

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Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2019 6:23 pm
Zip Code: 53508

Re: to buy or not to buy

Postby Stevos_loboy » Sun Sep 15, 2019 5:44 pm

Rockshaft moves freely. Cylinder seems to be in a mechanical binding state, more so than just a normal hydraulic fluid lock. We'll get'r free. Had to start the tractor in gear in hopes the clutch would function to some degree, and it did. So we got'r moved into temp storage until we get to the new house and shop. Will also have to wait to pick up the 184 until then as well!


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