New to farming/gardening - seeking advice

[cdahl383]

I recently bought a Cub just a few months ago and just picked up a plow from the CubFest in Ohio. I was hoping to expand our garden in our yard next year and just wanted to gather some information on what all is involved. My wife and I have only had a small 15'x15' garden in the back for just a few vegetables like peppers, corn, carrots, beets, potatoes, tomatoes, etc. Looking to expand that next year.

1.) What size garden is realistic to maintain for someone just starting out? We live on 3 acres and we have probably around 3/4 acre to 1 acre in the back we could use for a garden. I'm not really sure what size to start with.

2.) What implements are required? I picked up a 1 bottom plow from Bill (Barnyard) last weekend and plan on cleaning it up and painting it. After you turn the soil over you have to break everything up, which I assume is what the discs are for. Are there other steps after running a plow/disc over the soil?

3.) What is the best time of the year to plant in general? I'm assuming it may vary slightly depending on what you're planting.

4.) How far apart do you need to plant things so they don't get over crowded or waste space?

5.) If I planted several rows of corn or potatoes, would rabbits/deer end up eating them? I'm hoping I don't have to put some huge fence around the entire area but if I have to I will. We have several farm fields around us growing corn, soybeans, winter wheat, cabbage, etc and they're just out in the open.

Appreciate any advice/insight as I'm completely new to the farming/gardening scene but would like to learn.

Thank you!

[ajhbike]

I gauge it like this...How much can we eat, how much do we want to freeze/preserve, how many plants won't make it, and how much do we want to give away...for each veggie we want to plant. Then decide what veggies we want to plant in waves (like beans).

[Don McCombs]

The answers to all the questions you have are variable, depending on location, soil type, what you plan to grow and how much time you have to dedicate to the garden. Therefore, I’m going to recommend that you visit the University of Michigan Agricultural Extension Office in Monroe. They will have someone on staff who can answer your questions with specific guidance for your area.
With respect to size, start small as you have done and expand as your time, energy and experience permit.

[outdoors4evr]

1) Consider a rectangle shaped garden. Plowing, discing, and cultivating a square garden is somewhat difficult. (take it from a guy with a square garden) Since soaker hoses are 50' long, I'd start with a 50 foot row (or a 23 foot with a 2' U-Turn in the hose)

2) Plow in the fall. Rototill, or Disc in the spring

3) Being in Michigan, most plants aren't safe from frost until after Memorial Day. Seeds may be planted 2-3 weeks prior (with risk of frost)
Some cold-weather plants can be planted early and are frost and freeze tolerant. Peas, Asparagus, radish, and various others

4) Depends on what you are planting. Most row spacing and plant spacing requirements are listed on the seed packet. Example: Peppers can be closer together than Tomatoes. If using a tractor mounted cultivator, you will have to follow the row spacing required of the cultivator implement.

5) I have to fence my entire garden with a 6' fence for deer management. Chicken wire seems to work well, but have to take it down every year for tractor access. I remove the T-Posts at two ends of the garden and use zip ties to fasten. (hence, the rectangle shape would be best so less posts are removed)

[outdoors4evr]

Once the fence is up, it becomes overly difficult to get the tractor into the garden space.
Gates and doors are not typically 6' tall so those places become instant access for animals. I haven't found a good gate solution yet.
I also have to put ground stakes in between the posts to keep the short critters from climbing under the fence. If I were doing it again, the long sides of the garden would have had part of the fence buried - maybe start with a plow furrow depth. The short side fences would be removable and not buried.

[Eugene]

University of Michigan Extension, online. Uni. Mo. Extension has online pamphlets showing different vegetable planting dates and types for zones.

Neighboring farmers, excellent source of information.

Soil tests before you get started.

Implements since you have a Cub. Small horse drawn or towable garden tractor implements.

Garden size, start small. Edit: Suggest plowing and preparing twice as much ground as you intend to plant the first year. Then sowing the unused half with a cover crop.

[v w]

What is currently in the area? If grass of any type is there I would highly recommend applying Roundup or other herbicide that will kill grass unless you prefer organic gardening. Then plow after the grass dies and keep it fallow for the balance of the year. Deer: These critters can jump high and they can jump wide but they cannot jump high AND wide. I have used both by criss crossing twine from the sides which is then somewhat of a pain when I want in and getting mechanical cultivation in would be a pain. (I use a mulch since my hands do not fit a hoe handle.) The best for me was to use regular woven wire fence then add a twine around the top at 6 to 7 feet. I slipped a PVC pipe over the T posts for the fence and ran a piece of twine at about 7 feet. Even if it looks like they could jump thru they probably never tried. Rabbits: Well for openers they taste a lot like chicken. I protect small plants with chicken wire "caps". Once the plant gets a bit bigger they can generally have a few leaves bittten off without a lot of damage except for carrots and we just let them eat some. Racoons: Electric fence at about 3 inches and another at foot generally handle them. They are very easy to poision but I don't like to do that since it will kill anything that gets into it but I have also been a bit angry when they entered a non fenced patch and ruined the crop. Squirrels: I have watched them eat sweet corn but never do anything about it. I have also watched them climb a sunflower intended for the birds, bite off a mature flower go back to the ground and carry it off to dine elsewhere. My reaction? Just a smile and shake of the head. He still lives but they are tasty. Too much of a pain to skin so I just watch. Good luck with your garden! Vern

[Barnyard]

As far as keeping critters out, I have found that six Border Collies will make sure they stay out.

[cdahl383]

Wow thanks for all the advice!

I heard someone else mention the plowing in the fall idea at the CubFest. The idea is that you plow in the fall, then let mother nature do her thing on the clumps of soil by freezing/thawing over and over. By the time spring comes the soil has already broken up some, so discing is easier then. I have zero experience so I can't say if that's true or not, but it sounds logical to me.

We've had good luck with the welded wire fencing on our small garden. I guess we could try a taller version of that for the larger garden when the time comes.

My favorite things to eat are corn, potatoes, and peppers. My wife likes her tomatoes. I'll have to do some research and check out that agricultural office.

Regarding soil tests, what does that entail and what does that tell you? From what I can tell our soil is sandy here. We have a chicken pen on the one end of the back area and they ate all the grass and dug out spots to sit in. It's all sand/loose stuff. I don't see any clay anywhere. My neighbor who grew up here said the original owners used to farm that whole area back there and that it's excellent soil. I'm not sure what constitutes excellent soil from poor soil though.

Your dogs seemed to like my tractor last weekend Bill!

[Don McCombs]

Ask about soil tests at the Extension Office.

[Eugene]

Regarding soil tests, what does that entail and what does that tell you?

I'm talking the University of Missouri Extension soil tests. $15- a test/container and worth the expense. The containers and paperwork are picked up at the nearest extension office.

On the paperwork submitted with the soil sample(s) you indicate the type of plant, tree, garden, the test is for. The results will indicate humus and/or mineral shortages and the quantities to apply.

Another edit: Consider fruit and nut trees.

[Don McCombs]

https://homesoiltest.msu.edu/get-started

[cdahl383]

Ok cool, I'll check into that.

I see, so you're basically determining what the soil contains and what it's lacking based on what you intend to grow. Pretty cool!

[cdahl383]

I checked out that MSU link Don, that's pretty cool. Looks like it's $26 for the mail kit. They send it to you, you send them some soil in return, and within 10 days or so they send you an email link to your results. I had no idea soil tests were even a thing haha! I've heard of oil tests for engines/cars, but not soil. Definitely learning a lot!

[Eugene]

Check with the Monroe County Extension Office, 963 S. Raisinville Road Monroe, MI 48161. The test kits may be less expensive than mailed if you pick them up at their office.