Hi All,
I am looking to buy my first cub cadet. I have settled on a 100 since it matches my I-cub decals and paint scheme. I know that may not be the best reason but all I need it to do is cut grass and look good parked next to the cub. My wife gave me a budget to get a new riding mower but if I come home with something that won't mow I am a dead man.
I can not find one that looks worth owning or that they aren't asking way too much for any where near me. I have found one that looks good but is very far away from me, so I won't be able to check it over before committing to the drive and expenses (weekend trip). Any help on what questions I should ask the seller, etc. before I make the trip and what I should be wary of when I pick it up would be greatly appreciated. They are asking $700 which I know sounds a little high from what I have read, but looks reasonable to what I actually see available. Add reads "has a 12hp kohler engine and a 42" deck, tractor is not perfect but runs good mower deck has new blades but needs a belt." Here are the pics.
Thanks in advance for any help - Ken
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Advice before I purchase CC 100
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- LilCub
- 5+ Years
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- Team Cub Mentor
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Re: Advice before I purchase CC 100
Take the CC for a test drive. Check the steering for sloppiness. Engine condition? Check mower deck spindles for sloppiness.
Expect to have to spend more money on the tractor fixing things.
$700- sounds way high. $400- to $500- would be more reasonable if the tractor were in good condition.
There are other models of Cub Cadets with the same paint color scheme. Rather than making a long drive, perhaps for nothing, check your local Craigslist. Cub Cadets come up frequently on Craigslist.
Expect to have to spend more money on the tractor fixing things.
$700- sounds way high. $400- to $500- would be more reasonable if the tractor were in good condition.
There are other models of Cub Cadets with the same paint color scheme. Rather than making a long drive, perhaps for nothing, check your local Craigslist. Cub Cadets come up frequently on Craigslist.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
- Zip Code: 48370
- Tractors Owned: 184
- Location: Oxford, MI
Re: Advice before I purchase CC 100
It does seem expensive, but that seller has put some considerable money into tires, wheel weights, and paint. I would agree with Eugene about the expectation to spend some more dough on fixing things.
As for the questions... Why is the seller selling this tractor? What repairs will likely need to be done within the next two years?
As for the questions... Why is the seller selling this tractor? What repairs will likely need to be done within the next two years?
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
- Urbish
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2427
- Joined: Sat Sep 07, 2013 3:45 pm
- Zip Code: 48158
- Tractors Owned: ~
1958 International Cub LoBoy
1947 Farmall H
1946 Farmall B
1953 Willys CJ3B
2022 Massey Ferguson GC1723E Subcompact
Cub Loboy L-54 Leveling and Grader Blade - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Manchester, MI
Re: Advice before I purchase CC 100
Keep in mind that $700 is still $400 less than one of these. So long as you don't mind doing some work on it once in a while, it will probably outlast (and certainly outperform) one from a big box store.
Jim
- Urbish
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2427
- Joined: Sat Sep 07, 2013 3:45 pm
- Zip Code: 48158
- Tractors Owned: ~
1958 International Cub LoBoy
1947 Farmall H
1946 Farmall B
1953 Willys CJ3B
2022 Massey Ferguson GC1723E Subcompact
Cub Loboy L-54 Leveling and Grader Blade - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Manchester, MI
Re: Advice before I purchase CC 100
I should add that I bought a 1970's Bolens G-12 sight unseen (ebay) that looked to be in the same condition as the CC you're looking at. It was only after I got it home that I realized it had undergone a "paint restoration". The transaxle was completely worn out and I ended up rebuilding it at great expense. A few weeks later the engine started knocking and other severe problems popped up. I ended up taking a big loss (both in time and financial) on it; even after parting it out.
With you travelling very far to get it, it will be very hard to decide not to buy it if you start seeing red flags. The seller will know this as well. If you are having any reservations whatsoever, you'd be best to pass on the deal and look for something local that you can make a pressure-free decision on. But if that's "the one", then go and plan to buy it no matter what you find out when you're there because it's going to come home with you.
With you travelling very far to get it, it will be very hard to decide not to buy it if you start seeing red flags. The seller will know this as well. If you are having any reservations whatsoever, you'd be best to pass on the deal and look for something local that you can make a pressure-free decision on. But if that's "the one", then go and plan to buy it no matter what you find out when you're there because it's going to come home with you.
Jim
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
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1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Advice before I purchase CC 100
Obviously, the engine has been replaced. The 100's came with a 10HP, not a 12HP engine. Test drive it like Eugene suggests. Run through all the gears; listen to the engine at low and high idle. If you like it, buy it, but know what your budget is and if there's any need for sudden repairs, you might exceed that figure (easily).
Here's the link from TractorData.com: http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/2/2/226-cub-cadet-100.html
Wish you the best!
Here's the link from TractorData.com: http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/2/2/226-cub-cadet-100.html
Wish you the best!
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- 10+ Years
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- Location: in northern usa
Re: Advice before I purchase CC 100
Checkout the axle bearing seals on the rear axle for leakage.
Look at the play in the steering wheel. Look at the left hand front spindle tie rods for play.
Look at the engines breather for blowby.
Look at the drive pin holes in the clutch. Make sure there not elongated.
Listen to the clutch release bearing as you press the clutch pedal down and release it in neutral.
Check the brakes.
Look at the pto release button for wear.
How's the front wheel bearings look and feel? Watch the tires for wobble as you turn right and left.
Look at the play in the steering wheel. Look at the left hand front spindle tie rods for play.
Look at the engines breather for blowby.
Look at the drive pin holes in the clutch. Make sure there not elongated.
Listen to the clutch release bearing as you press the clutch pedal down and release it in neutral.
Check the brakes.
Look at the pto release button for wear.
How's the front wheel bearings look and feel? Watch the tires for wobble as you turn right and left.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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