1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

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Bill Hudson
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1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby Bill Hudson » Wed Jun 01, 2016 9:03 pm

Folks,

This is the first place I'm going, before I look up manuals, etc.

The transmission leaks oil here:
Image
This is where the transmission enters the differential case.

The differential case part #:
Image

The tag on the hydrostat:
Image

My question(s) concern how complicated is it to open this puppy up and repair the obvious leak and identify and repair any other problems common to these units? This will be a whole new experience for me. :D :D Oh, I've not operated the unit, so I'm not even sure it works? :cry:

I may need a few of these before I'm done. :coffee: :coffee:

Thanks for your help.

Bill
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist

Eugene
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Re: 1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby Eugene » Wed Jun 01, 2016 9:19 pm

Since you haven't operated the unit, I would check the hydraulic fluid level, spray off the hydraulic fluid leak with brake cleaner. Operate the unit and see if you have a leak and/or how significant the leak is.

I had what I thought was a leak from my 125 in the same general area. Drips on the concrete floor and fluid on the hydro. Cleaned up the area with brake cleaner and the leak/drip stopped. Turned out to be hydraulic fluid draining back on the hydro when I replaced the filter.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: 1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby Bill Hudson » Wed Jun 01, 2016 9:34 pm

Eugene,

I failed to tell you folks that I had drained the oil and replaced it with Hy-Tran. While the Cadet was setting in the shop the oil began to leak. No leaking prior to the oil change, however, the oil/crud accumulation in the area would indicate that oil had been leaking in the past. Probably leaked out enough that the oil was below where the leak is, thus no leaking until the change to the "full" level.

Bill
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Re: 1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby Stanton » Thu Jun 02, 2016 6:20 am

If you're going to the Bash, you might ask David (dgrapes59). He's a Cub Cadet guru. :coffee:
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Re: 1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby Eugene » Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:07 am

I would start the engine then see if the hydro works. If the tractor drives, give it the 100 point inspection. Find out what needs to be repaired or adjusted when the tractor is split.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: 1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby Bill Hudson » Wed Jun 22, 2016 8:53 pm

As usual, Eugene is right on-the-money. I buttoned everything up, changed fluids, points, plug, air filter and fired it up and it runs and operates fine. I mowed my lawn three times and once for a neighbor to serve as a shakedown cruise. Transmission works as it should, the leak is minimal but manageable, the engines uses oil but has adequate power for our daughter's use.

Delivered it to her home tonight and she will use it until snow flies. I will put the snowthrower on my 1450 and let her use it while I get the engine refreshed and the hydrostat tuned up on the 1250. Much simpler and far less pressure this way.

Thanks, everyone for all your help.

Bill
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Re: 1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby dgrapes59 » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:13 pm

Stanton wrote:If you're going to the Bash, you might ask David (dgrapes59). He's a Cub Cadet guru. :coffee:


Haha Stanton! I just saw this thread, I know enough to be dangerous about gear drive narrow frames, Bill and I have talked on other issues, hopefully pointing him in the right direction. GITractorman, Bill Doebler is the Cub Cadet guru, and Eugene is obviously an all around guru! :wink:

Glad you got it going, you usually figure things out,
David

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Re: 1250 Hydrostatic Transmission Questions

Postby gitractorman » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:22 pm

Glad you got it going. I too just saw this, but I think you've moved in the right direction. Most of the hydro tranny's that I've seen leaking are from the return tube where it goes back into the rear differential. There's an O-ring in there that is often broken causing the leak. You're appears to be leaking up where the Sunstrand unit bolts to the differential housing. There is a gasket in there that could be bad, or the bolts could just be loose. I've seen both, and never cared enough to tear into it and actually fix the leak. One time the bolts were just loose, so when I gave them a little turn, the leak stopped.

One thing to watch out for on the 1200/1250 and other quietline tractors is the ISO mounts wearing out and letting the engine wobble around in the frame. This is very common and you won't notice it as much on a hydro as you will on a gear drive, but both are prone to it. If you grab the engine and pull it from the side, it should move just a little (within the ISO mounts) but it should not be loose. Anyway, if it is loose, it could allow the driveshaft to wobble around, and in a hydro, it could cause the leak at the pump, just by shaking it a little too much. Since the pump is aluminum, and the rear differential is cast iron, if the pump is shaking a bit too much, it can loosen it up on the differential housing. So, the leak shows up where yours is, but the real cause is the engine wobbling around too much and shaking the pump apart.

I think you're fine to let it go through the summer, but I'd definitely give it all a good looking over during the winter.

Dave - Thanks for the compliment, but it's apparent that I've spent way too much time under a tractor...... I really should be doing that more and spending less time at my desk doing environmental work! If I could only get tractors to pay the rent and health insurance???

Later,
Bill
Cub Cadets 682, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller


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