Hi, first post on this part of the forum - I've been posting on the Cub part previously, but now I've bought a '69 Cub Cadet 106 with a 42" mower attached( a couple of weeks ago). Decent shape, but I intend on tearing it down this winter and doing a 90% restore on it. I need some advice right now on two things, as I am using it to mow with before winter. I'll post the second item separately.
Here's the first problem: Steering. Lots of slop/play. I'm ready to buy new bearings and cups, etc., but am unsure how to remove the steering column/assembly. Do I need to remove the mower deck first? If that's the case, I'll wait on doing the steering rebuild until winter when I plan on dropping the deck anyway (it needs rebuild too...).
Any advice is welcomed!
Attaching a pic of the 106 right after I bought it.
Thanks!
Jim
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Cub Cadet 106 Steering
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- Jim in SC
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Cub Cadet 106 Steering
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
- gitractorman
- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 14072
- eBay ID: toysforjake
- Tractors Owned: Lots of Cub Cadets!
1951 Farmall Cub
1977 IH Cub
1966 IH Cub
1965 IH Lo Boy
1964 IH Lo Boy
1949 Farmall Cub
Several IH 154 Lo Boys
1979 IH 184 Lo Boy
Simplicity 4416 Sovereign
Simplicity Conquest
Simplicity Legacy 4x4 Diesel
Mitsubishi MT180D 4x4 Diesel - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Grand Island, NY
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
Really nice looking 106. Great little machine!
So, just go ahead and drop the mower deck and mule drive assembly..... You've got work to do on them anyway (see your other post).
First thing to check in the steering is the front axle pivot pin. Jack the tractor up using a block under the frame behind the front wheels, about where the mower mounts. With the front wheels off of the ground, sitting on the floor in front of the tractor, grab the front wheels and see if you can wobble them front to back. The center pivot pin typically wears a bit in these just from lack of grease. If it's just a little wobble, I'd let it go. If it's really noticeable, I'd pull the front pivot pin and see what the problem is. Sometimes it's the bushings in the frame, and sometimes it's the pin that's worn. Unfortunately, these can be a bit of work to fix, so you may just have to live with it.
While it's in the air, sit at the side by a front tire and grab it to wobble around and see how the front spindle is. There's two things to look for, if the tire/rim is wobbling on the axle of the spindle, or if the spindle is wobbling in the front axle housing. If the tire/rim is wobbling around, easy fix, order some new front wheel bearings. If it's the spindle wobbling in the axle housing, there's not a ton that you can do. Sometimes the spindles and axles just wear a bit and you end up with some play. It usually takes some welding and grinding (or replace the front axle housing) to fix the spindle/axle problem, so some play you just may have to live with.
Drop the tractor back to the ground and now turn the steering wheel while squatting by the left front tire. Don't turn the wheels, just run the steering back and forth while looking at all the steering linkage. The little universal joints at the ends of the tie rods and drag link are all the same, and they all wear out. You'll see the loose ones during this exercise. You may just want to replace all of them.
Lastly, lay under the tractor and use your hand to move the steering arm back and forth at the end of the steering gear box. If there's a lot of play in it, you may want to pull the whole steering shaft and re-build the gear box. This website will walk you through the repairs to the gear box. It's not complicated, but there's definitely some "do" and "don't" items. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/steering.htm
As mentioned, some of the slop you may just have to live with, but the exercise above should really help you tighten things up.
Bill
So, just go ahead and drop the mower deck and mule drive assembly..... You've got work to do on them anyway (see your other post).
First thing to check in the steering is the front axle pivot pin. Jack the tractor up using a block under the frame behind the front wheels, about where the mower mounts. With the front wheels off of the ground, sitting on the floor in front of the tractor, grab the front wheels and see if you can wobble them front to back. The center pivot pin typically wears a bit in these just from lack of grease. If it's just a little wobble, I'd let it go. If it's really noticeable, I'd pull the front pivot pin and see what the problem is. Sometimes it's the bushings in the frame, and sometimes it's the pin that's worn. Unfortunately, these can be a bit of work to fix, so you may just have to live with it.
While it's in the air, sit at the side by a front tire and grab it to wobble around and see how the front spindle is. There's two things to look for, if the tire/rim is wobbling on the axle of the spindle, or if the spindle is wobbling in the front axle housing. If the tire/rim is wobbling around, easy fix, order some new front wheel bearings. If it's the spindle wobbling in the axle housing, there's not a ton that you can do. Sometimes the spindles and axles just wear a bit and you end up with some play. It usually takes some welding and grinding (or replace the front axle housing) to fix the spindle/axle problem, so some play you just may have to live with.
Drop the tractor back to the ground and now turn the steering wheel while squatting by the left front tire. Don't turn the wheels, just run the steering back and forth while looking at all the steering linkage. The little universal joints at the ends of the tie rods and drag link are all the same, and they all wear out. You'll see the loose ones during this exercise. You may just want to replace all of them.
Lastly, lay under the tractor and use your hand to move the steering arm back and forth at the end of the steering gear box. If there's a lot of play in it, you may want to pull the whole steering shaft and re-build the gear box. This website will walk you through the repairs to the gear box. It's not complicated, but there's definitely some "do" and "don't" items. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/steering.htm
As mentioned, some of the slop you may just have to live with, but the exercise above should really help you tighten things up.
Bill
Cub Cadets 682, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
- Jim in SC
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
Bill, Much thanks again for your in-depth replies! I will be waiting to fix the steering until winter for sure. A further question on steering though: Several websites and eBay offer "steering upgrade" kits for Cub Cadets. Do you (or any other Forum members)n know if these kits work? Are they worth the money?
Thanks again,
Jim
Thanks again,
Jim
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
-
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20344
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
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- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
I'm sure the upgrade kits work. Don't know if they are worth the expense.Lorisfarmer wrote:Several websites and eBay offer "steering upgrade" kits for Cub Cadets. Do you (or any other Forum members)n know if these kits work? Are they worth the money?
Just my opinion. I would remove the steering column and additional steering parts from the tractor and see what need to be adjusted or replaced. Original parts lasted 46 years. Repair/replacement and the steering/tractor should last another 46 years.
I'm currently working on the steering for a 122 CC. The biggest problem with this tractor's steering/slop is 4 well worn out tie rod ends and wear in the steering arm/knuckle. Guessing, just a bit over $50- to replace the tie rod ends and one grade 8 bolt to tighten up the steering arm.
The sector seems tight and in good condition. But since I have the sector out of the tractor I will disassemble, inspect.
I have an excuse. CRS.
- Jim in SC
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
Eugene, thanks for the input. Pretty much as I suspected. The cost of the upgrade kits really aren't too bad, so I think I'll plan on doing a thorough job on the steering (and the mower deck - different post) this winter. I will pull the steering column, etc. then.
Thanks again.
Jim
Thanks again.
Jim
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
- dgrapes59
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 3727
- Joined: Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:05 pm
- Zip Code: 45067
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Cub, 2-1955 Loboy w FH, a few plows, discs, mowers, blades, carrier & such
Several '61 CC Originals, Cub Cadet 100, several 102's & 122's, 124, various CC options & implements, #1Trailer, 1963 Springfield, JD 770, Ford 8N - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Trenton
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
I agree with Eugene, by what others have said they do help some, but with good tie rod ends and a properly adjusted steering gear they work pretty smooth. The steering gear cam follower screw tends to wear, it can be reworked if worn or replacements are available from a few after market sources very reasonable.
This link has a helpful "how to" rebuild the steering column:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/show ... php?t=4631
Good luck,
This link has a helpful "how to" rebuild the steering column:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/show ... php?t=4631
Good luck,
David
- Jim in SC
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
David, Thanks VERY much! I've saved that link in my favorites and will follow it closely when I rebuild the steering. Excellent.
VR,
Jim
VR,
Jim
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
I re-worked the steering pin and added the bearing to my CCC 782 per David's link above. It improved the steering considerably, but will need to replace the joints at each wheel for it to really be tighter. The redo on the steering overhaul did improve the ease of turning; not like having power steering, but a lot better than manual.
- Jim in SC
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
Thanks Stanton! That's in my plan for winter too!
Jim
Jim
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
-
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20344
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
Picked up the tie rod ends and a grade 8 bolt to tighten up the steering from IH dealership. $38 and small change for all parts.
Was pleasantly surprised was that the tie rod ends were each $4.00 cheaper from the IH dealership than advertised on the internet. And there was no $8.?? shipping and handling fee.
Told the clerks about the internet price. Conversation immediately turned to internet pricing for products, "just pay separate shipping and handling". Worked for a while picking books. I would get a written order. Go to the location and pick the number of books cited on the order. The time difference between picking/putting one or two or more items in the order box was only a few seconds. Certainly not worth the additional $8.?? per item.
Was pleasantly surprised was that the tie rod ends were each $4.00 cheaper from the IH dealership than advertised on the internet. And there was no $8.?? shipping and handling fee.
Told the clerks about the internet price. Conversation immediately turned to internet pricing for products, "just pay separate shipping and handling". Worked for a while picking books. I would get a written order. Go to the location and pick the number of books cited on the order. The time difference between picking/putting one or two or more items in the order box was only a few seconds. Certainly not worth the additional $8.?? per item.
I have an excuse. CRS.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2015 10:07 am
- Zip Code: 61882
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
I know this post is a bit dated but thought I would mention I have found heavy duty ball joints provide much tighter steering over stock tie rod ends and last considerably longer.
http://www.kirkengines.com/index.php#St ... eRodEndKit
or
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tie-rod-ends (available with grease fittings)
http://www.kirkengines.com/index.php#St ... eRodEndKit
or
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tie-rod-ends (available with grease fittings)
- Jim in SC
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Cub Cadet 106 Steering
Thanks for the post on Kirk Engines. I just purchased a couple of items from him this week for my CC and am considering getting the ball joints you mentioned. Good to know they are worth the money. And I'll look into the McMaster link too. Thanks again!
Jim
Jim
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
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