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Hydraulic Pump Seal

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Mark K
10+ Years
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Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 9:42 pm
Location: McLoud, Oklahoma

Hydraulic Pump Seal

Postby Mark K » Sat Aug 06, 2005 3:17 pm

Hello,
I have a model 100 with hydraulic lift and I was wondering how hard it is to put a seal in the pump. It is leaking arround the pully shaft. Thanks in advance.
Mark Kraeer

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Paul B
10+ Years
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Posts: 2338
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:12 pm
Zip Code: 40218
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: KY, Louisville

Postby Paul B » Sat Aug 06, 2005 9:08 pm

Mark
I cannot answer your question because I have never rebuilt one, but I'm sure once William "Geezer" De Turck see's you question, he will chime in. I believe he has rebuilt a couple of them.

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wdeturck
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Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2003 6:15 am
Location: PA Oakmont 15139

Postby wdeturck » Sun Aug 07, 2005 2:53 pm

The shaft seal is an easy replacement if the shaft isn't worn and your cast iron pump isn't worn where the shaft rides on the gear cover(I haven't heard of this but it is possible for this area to wear and shorten the life of the shaft seal. We will just go to replacement of the shaft seal and assume your shaft is OK. You should have pages 33 and 34 section B(for 100/70 of the TC-113. If you don't have these I will E-mail them to you. Take the reservoir can off being very careful with item #53 that is the seal on the stud under the nut. They show that as available but it is now NLA(I managed to make one that didn't leak). All the items # listed are in the inset. Take a picture of the spring #41 so you can install a new one and can be hard to get it correct if you don't have a picture. That spring is known to break and the small pieces go down an wipe out the oil gears so that is a must to replace. Take out the 6 screws that hold hold on the pump cover(#45). If I remember correctly you can leave most of the linkage just dangle or remove enough to get it out of the way. Pull the shaft and gear out of the pump body(I would try to remove any burrs on the shaft from the pulley. Take the other gear(#44) out and the shaft(#43) it rides on(they will fall out). Drive the old seal(#47) out the front of the pump housing. If this is the original seal it is going to be thicker than the replacement SEALS. Mike the shaft (.500) were the seal appears to ride. One that I replaced the shaft was wore here and that's when I got in trouble trying to replace that shaft. Even if the shaft is worn I would attempt to replace the seals before attempting to mess with the shaft. I found out that if these thinner seals(CR 4911 oil seals bought at NAPA) if put to far into the shaft cavity there is a drain hole that lets oil get around one seal. There is enough room for 2 seals so I have been using 2 seals(don't seat the first one all the way and then install the second seal. These seals should ride on a different place on the shaft so even if the shaft is worn the seals will still seal. I have told a few people to do this and no one has told me anything negative about a shaft seal. Put the pump back together and fill with high tran and it should be good to go. Don't fill it completely full as the oil gets hot and expands. I don't have the manual handy but it tells how much to replace. I have use the old rubber O ring and they all sealed. Good luck and ask questions.
The Geezer from IHregistry.com which crashed and is now Cub Cadet Collectors.


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