IHC Cub Cadet Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cadet related issues.
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I have been trying to get a little extra pulling power out of my cub cadet 100 pulling tractor, recently putting in a 12hp Kohler (replacing the factory 10hp) and also adding a creeper drive unit. The more i read about the creeper drive though, it seems like its pretty weak in comparison with the rest of the drive train. I was wondering what everyones thoughts would be on taking out the creeper drive, lengthening the frame, and installing a farmall cub transmission (or cub cadet with the PTO shaft) in front of the the regular transmission, there by reducing input speed and increasing torque. Any ideas on pros/cons????? thanks
P.S- i also have installed a East Coast Pulling Parts HD pulling clutch/driveshaft.
I can't speak to your question, however, Midwest Super Cub http://www.midwestsupercub.net/ is a source of products/information for all things on pulling Cadets.
Looks like you are having fun! Good luck!
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
If you're talking about pulling weight sleds, then I think you better talk to some guys that do tractor pulling. From what I know about it, I don't think you want to do either of the things you mention above. Typically, tractor pulling setups run second gear, which gives you the right amount of ground speed, pulling power, and throttle control, so you can adjust the wheel speed as needed by throttle while pulling. If you use a creeper drive or try to use a secondary tranny as an underdrive (which I don't think is nearly as easy as you are describing), your ground speed is going to be way too slow, and you'll loose the help that you get from momentum of the sled.
If you're talking about being able to pull stuff around the house, boats, logs, trailers, etc., then a creeper drive is exactly what you need. Slow speed, lots of power. They're pretty bullet proof for what they were intended, giving the tractor slower gears so that the throttle can be left wide open to run attachments like a snow blower or roto tiller, thus slowing the ground speed of the tractor yet keeping the throttle wide open so the PTO driven attachments are running at the correct speed for their intended use.
Oh, by the way, a farmall cub transmission does not have the primary underdrive gear that is in the front of a Cub Cadet tranny. The underdrive gear changes the rotation of the engine in a Cub Cadet tranny and also changes the input RPMs. The final drives in a Farmall Cub take care of this. So, if you just try to slap in a Farmall Cub tranny, you will have 3 gears in reverse, one forward. So, like I said above, not nearly as easy as you were thinking.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
Echos my thoughts. You can do some math to figure out your ground speed, if you know the gear reduction of the creeper or the secondary transmission.
My Cub 154 Low-Boy with creeper. Ground speed with tractor in 3rd gear and creeper engaged is slower than 1st gear without the creeper.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Another thought about the twin trans idea. Rock crawling trucks use low speed, with high power to the ground, high reving engines, large tires and wheels, and serious gear reduction is necessary. Often these trucks will use twin transfer cases (called doublers) which gives them basically a double low range when both cases are in low range. That amounts to about 4X the gear reduction of high range. These trucks are pretty heavy too with lockers front and rear with some pretty deep gears (4.56, 4.88, 5.13...). Bottom line - it's about 1) getting power to the ground, and 2) TRACTION. If you can't hook up all the power in the world won't help, this is true in any wheeled power sport. What you need is a blend of power, speed, and traction for whatever you're trying to build/pull. If you're pulling a sled I think I'd concentrate on power and traction. Like the others I wouldn't worry about any more gear reduction, your Cubs trans and the driveline you have are up to the job.
Thanks for all the input guys. One thing i probably should have specified is that im doing stone boat pulling, not transfer sled. This past weekend i participated in a local tractor pull. my max pull was 5000lbs for 10in. (full pull is 36in for our club). i never lost traction, clutch never slipped, and front end was floating pretty well (therefore transferring all weight to the rear wheels). I just ran out of power. I was using 1st gear in "high range" of the creeper (word has it the planetary gears of the "low range" gear set aren't very strong). And while the Farmall cub transmission is lacking the speed reducer/rotation reverser, cant i just unbolt the ring gear/carrier assembly and flip it 180* to correct the rotation? please correct me if i have any info wrong, and keep the advice coming, thanks
First thing I would do is remove the creeper gear. They were not design for pushing-pulling a load. The gears are the weak link.
Best thing you can do is up the horse power in the engine in one of two ways: modifing the current engine or a bigger engine.
It sounds like you have the balance set. I wouldn't mess with it.
The weakest link is the pins in the drive shaft. I put in some standard heavy duty ones from McMaster Carr a few years back the there holding up.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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